That Fish Place / That Pet Place

Dogit Style Rainboots - Large - Red

Wed, 08 Feb 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Fun, bright and trendy spring colors are part of the Dogit Style Spring/Summer Collection. These water-resistant rainboots feature a zipper closure and velcro band to stay secure, keeping your pet's paws clean and dry. Color-coordinated reversible raincoats sold separately. Made for paws 1.75???? 1/2 in width and 2.75???? 1/2 in length, for dogs weighing approximately 13 lbs. to 17.6 lbs.

Yellowhead Wrasse - Halichoeres garnoti - Large

Tue, 07 Feb 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The juvenile Yellowhead Wrasse is yellow with a bright blue mid-body stripe. Several different color phases of this wrasse are found depending on region and maturity. As the wrasse matures, its head becomes bright yellow and the posterior turns black, green, and pink. The Yellowhead Wrasse is generally safe with larger tankmates of a similar, slightly bold temperament. These wrasses are active swimmers and should not be kept with delicate or very passive tankmates. They may also pick at some inverts and crustaceans so they should not be housed in a reef aquarium. Wrasses will accept most types of prepared or frozen foods like pellets, shrimp, scallops and similar foods.

Pygoplites diacanthus "Regal Angel" - Medium

Tue, 07 Feb 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The Regal Angel ( Pygoplited diacanthus ) has dark-edged, bright orange and white slanting bands that cross the body and extend into the dorsal and anal fins. The tail is yellow. Red Sea Regal Angels are more sharply colored than other Indo-Pacific individuals, and may have a grey patch at the breast. Although the Regal Angel can reach 10 inches in the wild, they usually only reach about 7 inches in captivity. The larger angelfish available in the aquarium trade include those from the genera Apolemichthys , Chaetodontoplus , Holacanthus , Pomacanthus , and Pygoplites . Of these, Apolemichthys and Chaetodontoplus are generally the smallest and are sometimes considered "pygmy angels" compared to the much larger Holacanthus and Pomacanthus angels. The Regal Angelfish, Pygoplites diacanthus is the only fish in the Pygoplites genus. Juveniles and adults among these angels usually have very different appearances and, in the wild, usually live in harems with dominant males controlling a group of females.The color change in angels can be triggered by size, age or a change in social structure. Angels should not be kept with other large angels in the home aquarium to avoid territorial conflicts. Occasionally, two angels may tolerate one another in a very large aquarium if they have very different coloration and appearance, but is not typically recommended. Suitable tankmates for most large marine angels would be larger community fish like tangs, triggers, groupers, some damsels, butterflies and similar fish. More shy and passive angels can be kept with smaller, more docile tankmates. Be sure to take the adult size of the angelfish into consideration when choosing an angel for an aquarium as many can grow very large (albeit slowly) and need tankmates and an environment that can accommodate them. All angels have cheekspines at the edge of their gill cover and in the dorsal fin. Use caution when handling and avoid using a net that they may become stuck or tangled in. The diet of large angels generally consists of meaty foods, algaes, and marine sponge. Many frozen angel formulas and flakes may have extra sponge meal, and live sponges can be purchased to supplement their diet. These angels are not reef safe and have been known to nip at or eat some corals, sponges, and clam mantles. Some leather corals and anemones may be safe with larger angelfish but is not generally recommended. Visit That Fish Blog for an Overview on Natural History and Care of Marine Angelfishes as well as a Species Profile on the Queen Angelfish and more from our marine biologists. This is a Restricted item and is not covered by our Arrive Alive 5-Day Guarantee. Please visit the Guarantee Policy and Restricted Species webpages for more information.

Oscar the Octopus Dog Toy - 10 in. - Blue

Tue, 07 Feb 2012 00:00:00 GMT

8 arms of plush fun for any size dog with Oscar the Octopus. Adorable design gives your pet lots of places to chew.

Naso lituratus "Naso Tang" - Medium/Large

Tue, 07 Feb 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The Naso Tang ( Naso lituratus ) is also known as the Lipstick Tang or Orangespine Tang. It has red or orange lips and a yellow-edged black mask that covers the snout and eyes. The body is grey-brown and often lighter on the dorsal side and the dorsal fin is black. The anal fin is orange with blue and black trim and the base of the tail is orange, and the tail itself has a yellow vertical edge. Adult males develop long "streamers" from the top and bottom edge of the tail. The very similar Blonde Naso Tang ( N. elegans ) is identical but with an orange-yellow dorsal fin and was once thought to be a regional variant; it is now considered a seperate species. N. lituratus is found in the Pacific Ocean while N. elegans is from the Indian Ocean. Tangs and Surgeonfish are some of the most popular and common fish found in the aquarium trade. This group includes several genuses that can be associated with the various common name groups although "Surgeonfish" and "Tang" are often used interchangeably: Acanthurus ("Surgeonfish"), Naso ("Unicorn Tangs"), Ctenochaetus ("Bristletooth Tangs") and Zebrasoma ("Tangs"). They are found in almost every tropical oceans and in almost every color and pattern. The common names ???? 1/2surgeonfish???? 1/2 or "doctorfish" comes from the tiny scalpel-like spine at the base of the fish's tail. They use this spine as defense and will extend the spine if threatened. You may witness the tang shimmying up against another tang or fish; this is a sign of aggression as they may be using this spine to ward off the other fish. Always use caution when handling or netting a tang since this spine can become caught or cause injuries. Tangs and Surgeonfish are omnivores but a large part of the diet of most species consists of algae and plant matter. Tangs should also be given some meaty food to round out their diet. However, tangs that are fed primarily meaty foods over a long period of time are more likely to suffer from head and lateral line erosion (HLLE). HLLE disease in the short run is not fatal, but over time if the disease continues to progress the fish will stop eating and become lethargic and susceptible to other infections which may eventually contribute to its demise. The best treatment is prevention; maintain excellent water quality and feed a rich and varied diet. Supplementing with a multivitamin (A, D, E, B complex, and Iodine) may also help prevent further erosion. Tangs are generally community fish and get along with most other tankmates. Most do not bother corals and can actually help keep nuisance algae trimmed and under control, especially "Bristletooth Tangs" from the Ctenochaetus genus. Tangs may get territorial and aggressive towards similar tangs, so always use caution when keeping these fish together or with other fish that have a similar body shape or coloration. Visit That Fish Blog for more information on Tangs and Surgeonfish and other aquarium-related topics from our marine biologists and aquatic staff.

Centropyge multifasciata "Many-banded Angel"

Tue, 07 Feb 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The Many-banded Angel ( Centropyge multifasciata ) is also known as the Multi-Barred Angel. It is easily distinguished by its alternating vertical white, yellow and black bands that cover its body. The smaller angelfish and "pygmy angelfish" available in the aquarium trade include those from the genera Apolemichthys , Centropyge , Chaetodontoplus , Genicanthus , and a few others. Of these, Apolemichthys and Chaetodontoplus are generally the largest. Centropyge is the largest group and some fish have been separated into new species and genera in recent years. Suitable tankmates for most of these angels would be community fish like tangs, clownfish, damsels, gobies, blennies, butterflies and similar fish. More shy and passive angels can be kept with smaller, more docile tankmates. Angels should not be kept with other angels in the home aquarium to avoid territorial conflicts. Occasionally, two angels may tolerate one another in a very large aquarium if they have very different coloration and appearance, but is not typical. All angels have cheekspines at the edge of their gill cover and in the dorsal fin; use caution when handling and avoid using a net that they may become stuck or tangled in. The diet of angels generally consists of meaty foods and algaes. They can be fed a variety of frozen items like formulas, mysis shrimp, brine shrimp, scallops and others, as well as pellets, flakes, algae sheets and other foods. Many can be kept successfully in a reef, but use caution with any angels in a reef system, especially with polyps and SPS corals; some have been known to nip at the occasionally polyp, coral or clam mantle but not to the extent of the larger angel species. Genicanthus angelfish are generally planktivores and are not usually a large risk to corals. Visit That Fish Blog for an Overview on Natural History and Care of Marine Angelfishes as well as a Species Profile on the Pygmy Angelfish and more from our marine biologists and aquatic staff. This is a Restricted item and is not covered by our Arrive Alive 5-Day Guarantee. Please visit the Guarantee Policy and Restricted Species webpages for more information.

Amblyeleotris wheeleri "Gorgeous Shrimpgoby"

Tue, 07 Feb 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The Wheeler's Shrimpgoby ( Amblyeleotris wheeleri ) is red- and yellow-striped with red, white and blue flecks all over. The first dorsal fin often has elongated spines. This fish is best known as part of the group of gobies known as shrimpgobies. They form symbiotic relationships with certain pistol shrimp. These shrimp build and maintain a burrow for them both to live in, and the goby defends the lair and supplies food. Shrimpgobies are also minor sandsifters but will not sift as much as those generally referred to as "Sleeper Gobies". These gobies will eat a variety of frozen foods and possibly flake and pellet. Gobies prefer a tank with plenty of rocky hiding places. They get along with most tankmates, but can be aggressive toward other gobies. Gobies are known jumpers; when startled or threatened, they have been known to jump out of uncovered aquariums. Always keep the tank covered and provide plenty of hiding places for this fish to retreat to. Visit That Fish Blog for more information from our marine biologists on Gobies , Pistol Shrimp and other aquarium-related topics!

Yasuhikotakia modesta "Redtail Botia"

Fri, 03 Feb 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The Red Tail Botia, Botia modesta , is generally dark gray to an almost blue appearance with red or orange fins. They are scavengers that will spend the majority of their time on the aquarium bottom searching for food in the gravel. Caves, tunnels and plants are needed when keeping these loaches because of their secretive behaviors. Without sufficient hiding places these fish will become very skiddish and prone to diseases. If diseases ever occur in the tank containing these fish extreme care must be taken in medicating the tank because the loaches skin is very sensetive to many types of medications. Generally sinking pellets are the easiest to feed to the loaches but they will except other forms of food. Frozen foods may be offered to them as a treat but should not be the only food fed to them. They are vey calm fish and can be housed with many types of tropical fish.

Valenciennea muralis "Mural Goby" - Small

Fri, 03 Feb 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The Mural Goby ( Valenciennea muralis ) is white with light dusky spots and a faint orange-brown horizontal stripes down the mid-body and a dark spot on the dorsal fin. This fish is best known as part of the group of gobies known as sandsifter or sleeper gobies. They take mouthfuls of the substrate and sift it out through their gills, searching for food. This can help keep the substrate aerated, and may help prevent the build-up of organic debris that leads to high nitrate levels, algae, and cyanobacteria ("Red Slime Algae"). They should be kept in a tank with fine, soft substrate that will not damage their gills as they sift. They will eat a variety of frozen foods and possibly flake and pellet. Gobies prefer a tank with plenty of rocky hiding places. They get along with most tankmates, but can be aggressive toward other gobies. When startled or threatened, they have been known to jump out of uncovered aquariums. Always keep the tank covered and provide plenty of hiding places for this fish to retreat to. Visit That Fish Blog for more information from our marine biologists on Gobies and other aquarium-related topics!

Tanichthys albonubes "White Cloud Mountain Minnow"

Fri, 03 Feb 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The White Cloud Mountain Minnow is extinct in the wild but has been a popular aquarium fish for many years. It exists now only in fish farms and hobbyists' homes. The wild type White Cloud is beige to light brown with a gold stripe that runs horizontally down the flank. The belly is dark and the fins are red. The fins may also be tipped in white. Unlike most other small aquarium fish, these fish actually thrive in cooler waters and are ideal for unheated community aquariums. White Clouds are hardy fish, and can be used as "starter fish" for new aquariums. They are schooling fish that should be kept in groups. They are peaceful and can be kept with most other community species like danios, small tetras and rasboras. They are very active swimmers and are constantly on the move. These fish can be fed most flake and small pelleted foods, and well as frozen brine shrimp and bloodworms as treats. White Clouds will generally occupy the upper portion of the water column, so a floating or slow-sinking food is a better choice than quick sinking varieties.

Symphysodon aequifasciatus "Blue Snakeskin Discus" - Medium

Fri, 03 Feb 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Discus are considered the Kings of the Freshwater fish! These beautiful, interestingly shaped fish can be quite rewarding when you take the time to care for them properly. Discus do best in groups. They also require pristine water conditions, with relatively low hardness, low pH, and high temperature. Be prepared to pay close attention to your water quality and the condition of your discus. Provide about 8-10 gallons of water per adult discus, starting with at least a 45 gallon aquarium. They also prefer a tall tank because of their body shape and activity. Your discus would do best if they are in a tank where there is low-traffic and no loud noises. Discus do well in a well-planted tank with driftwood and plenty of cover. They are quite docile and skittish and require a place to retreat and feel safe if necessary. They will not compete well for food, so be sure tankmates are equally as docile. Fast swimming fish can stress discus with their activity. Try Cardinal tetras, Rummy-nose tetras, rams, cory cats, and plecos that stay small. Feed your discus rich, meaty foods like worms and other larvae, beefheart, and a quality flake or small pellet. Increase the protein intake if you would like to breed your discus. Discus make rather good parents. They both protect the eggs and young, and they actually secrete a mucous that the fry feeds on during the very first few weeks that they are free-swimming. If you do your best to give your discus the conditions they want, they will reward you with many years of brilliant color and beauty, and plenty of personality, too! This is a Restricted item and is not covered by our Arrive Alive 5-Day Guarantee. Please visit the Guarantee Policy and Restricted Species webpages for more information.

Sciaenochromis ahli "Electric Blue Ahli" - Adult

Fri, 03 Feb 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Electric Blues, sometimes called "Haplochromis Big Eye" in the past, hail from the Northern end of Lake Malawi. Dominant male Sciaenochromis ahli develop fantastic blue body color with accents of yellow on the tail and anal fin and a broad white edge in the dorsal. Females remain silver. Sciaenochromis tend to be active and quite aggressive, so keep this hap with other cichlids of similar temperament and size that can hold their own. They will be more aggressive with males of same species, try to keep only one male per tank. These fish need plenty of territory and should not be housed in tanks smaller than 75 gallons. Tank decor should include plenty of rocks for hiding. Feed Sciaenochromis a variety of foods including flake, pellet, and meaty frozen items. They are predatory and will eat small fish and fry if the opportunity is presented. Like most Malawian cichlids, they are mouth brooders, meaning the female holds the eggs and fry in her mouth for protection.

Puntius tetrazona "Green Tiger Barb" - Medium

Fri, 03 Feb 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Green Tiger Barbs are a color variant of the common Tiger Barb. Their bodies are green or blue-green, and their fins are edged in red. Like other tiger barbs, these fish can be kept in some community tanks, but should not be kept with long-finned or shy fish as they can be aggressive at times. Green Tiger Barbs are schooling fish and should be kept in groups of at least six fish. This will help to reduce aggressive behavior. Keeping barbs in a larger tank will also help to reduce fin-nipping and other aggressive behaviors. They will eat a variety of prepared foods like flake or small pellets, and will appreciate the occasional vegetable snack or frozen meaty food. They are fast swimmers and require a tank with ample open space.

Puntius nigrofasciatus "Black Ruby Barb"

Fri, 03 Feb 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Black Ruby Barbs are characterized by a bright red head, and three or four black vertical bands. All fins are black, except for the tail, which is red. Males are generally more slender and more brightly colored than females. They are suitable for most community aquariums. Barbs are schooling fish and do best if kept in groups of six or more. Barbs accept a variety of foods including flake and small pellets, as well as frozen and freeze-dried. Barbs can be fin nippers, especially with long-finned fish. To help curb this behavior, be sure to keep them in schools.

Pterophyllum scalare "Zebra Lace Angelfish" - Small

Fri, 03 Feb 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Angelfish are overwhelmingly popular in the aquarium hobby, and its easy to see why. With their assorted color patterns and beautiful flowing fins, these fish truly live up to their name. Zebra Angelfish are silver with dark grey or black stripes. This "Lace" variety has a more lace or spider web-like pattern on its body and fins. Angelfish are generally peaceful, although they can become territorial if there is inadequate space for them to live happily. A breeding couple may also become particularly nippy when protecting eggs or young. Be sure your tank is large enough to allow each fish to have their own space, and also be sure the tank is tall enough to allow the fish space for their longer finnage. The recommended tank size of 30 gallons is for a single fish or pair; increase the tank size for a community tank including angelfish. Beware of fin-nipping tankmates such as barbs. Angel fins are very tempting to these fish! A planted tank is a great home for angelfish, plus other decor, such as driftwood and rockwork, makes great hide-out areas for your fish. Water quality is also important for your angels, so keep an eye on your ammonia level, and be sure to perform water changes regularly. Angels aren't too fussy when it comes to diet. Feed them a variety such as flake or small pellets/granules once a day, changing it up with a meaty frozen food such as brine shrimp or bloodworms as their second feeding. When cared for properly, angelfish are a very friendly and rewarding species to keep!

Pterophyllum scalare "Koi Angelfish" - Small/Medium

Fri, 03 Feb 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Angelfish are overwhelmingly popular in the aquarium hobby, and its easy to see why. With their assorted color patterns and beautiful flowing fins, these fish truly live up to their name. Koi Angelfish, much like the popular pond fish that shares their name, are often white, with black and orange or yellow markings. Angelfish are generally peaceful, although they can become territorial if there is inadequate space for them to live happily. A breeding couple may also become particularly nippy when protecting eggs or young. Be sure your tank is large enough to allow each fish to have their own space, and also be sure the tank is tall enough to allow the fish space for their longer finnage. The recommended tank size of 30 gallons is for a single fish or pair; increase the tank size for a community tank including angelfish. Beware of fin-nipping tankmates such as barbs. Angel fins are very tempting to these fish! A planted tank is a great home for angelfish, plus other decor, such as driftwood and rockwork, makes great hide-out areas for your fish. Water quality is also important for your angels, so keep an eye on your ammonia level, and be sure to perform water changes regularly. Angels aren't too fussy when it comes to diet. Feed them a variety such as flake or small pellets/granules once a day, changing it up with a meaty frozen food such as brine shrimp or bloodworms as their second feeding. When cared for properly, angelfish are a very friendly and rewarding species to keep!

Pterophyllum scalare "Black Lace Angelfish" - Small

Fri, 03 Feb 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Angelfish are overwhelmingly popular in the aquarium hobby, and its easy to see why. With their assorted color patterns and beautiful flowing fins, these fish truly live up to their name. Black Angelfish have black bodies that may be solid black or slightly mottled with silver. This "Lace" variety has a more lace or web-like pattern to its coloration. Angelfish are generally peaceful, although they can become territorial if there is inadequate space for them to live happily. A breeding couple may also become particularly nippy when protecting eggs or young. Be sure your tank is large enough to allow each fish to have their own space, and also be sure the tank is tall enough to allow the fish space for their longer finnage. The recommended tank size of 30 gallons is for a single fish or pair; increase the tank size for a community tank including angelfish. Beware of fin-nipping tankmates such as barbs. Angel fins are very tempting to these fish! A planted tank is a great home for angelfish, plus other decor, such as driftwood and rockwork, makes great hide-out areas for your fish. Water quality is also important for your angels, so keep an eye on your ammonia level, and be sure to perform water changes regularly. Angels aren't too fussy when it comes to diet. Feed them a variety such as flake or small pellets/granules once a day, changing it up with a meaty frozen food such as brine shrimp or bloodworms as their second feeding. When cared for properly, angelfish are a very friendly and rewarding species to keep!

Pseudotropheus socolofi "Snow White Socolofi" - Juvenile

Fri, 03 Feb 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The "Snow White" Socolofi is the albino form of the black and blue Pseudotropheus socolofi . It has a pure white body with pale blue iridescence and most often has bright red eyes. Pseudotropheus are typically rather aggressive and should only be kept with other Pseudotropheus and Malawian Mbuna that can take their rowdy behavior. Theses albinos tend to be a little less aggressive, but try to keep them in a small harem, one male per 2-3 females. Be sure to feed Pseudotropheus a diet rich in greens and vegetable matter. This is very important, as too much protein can lead to deadly Malawi bloat. Typical Malawi decor such as lots of rocks and cave will be appreciated by Mbuna cichlids.

Pseudotropheus crabro "Bumblebee Cichlid" - Juvenile

Fri, 03 Feb 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The Bumblebee Cichlid ( Pseudotropheus crabro ) has alternating yellow and dark brown bars. Juveniles will have an especially bumblebee-like pattern while adults, especially males, can be much darker in color. These fish can also change colors while feedign or stressed. Bumblebee Cichlids are found most often by rock caves or ledges and can be very territorial. They are also known to be parasite cleaners for some large catfish species. Tankmates should be chosen carefully to avoid aggression issues. These fish will accept most types of frozen and prepared (flake or pellet) aquarium foods. NOTE: The Pseudotropheus genus, along with many other cichlid groups, is under constant revision and change. Some of the fish in this genus may also be known as or may be changes to or from very closely related groups like Maylandia , Metriaclima and others.

Pseudanthias squamipinnis "African Lyretail Anthias" - Female

Fri, 03 Feb 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Pseudanthias squamipinnis "African Lyretail Anthias" - Female The Lyretail Anthias ( Pseudanthias squamipinnis ) is also known as the Warpaint Anthias for its vivid markings, especially in the males. The exact coloration can vary, depending on the region the fish was collected in, but follows the same general pattern. The male has an orange-red body with yellow scales on the sides, elongated rays in the dorsal fin, a forked tail, and long pelvic fins. Males are generally darker than females and have large red spots on the pectoral fins. The female has a light orange body with elongated rays in the dorsal fin, a forked tail, and long pelvic fins. A purple stripe extends across the cheek to the pectoral fins of both males and females. These anthias are more aggressive and territorial than other anthias species and should be kept alone or in large groups (one male to six or more females). Anthias are closely related to the often large and aggressive predators known collectively as Groupers but have much more peaceful temperaments. Within the Anthinnae subfamily, the temperament can still range from very passive and docile to downright bold but most are still peaceful compared to many of the other fish reputed to be "aggressive" and "territorial". Most anthias are shades of pink, red, orange and yellow; colors that help them blend in in the deeper waters many are found in. Size can also range between species but most anthias are under around 7-8 inches in length and the majority available in the aquarium trade are around 3-5 inches in length. Anthias are planktivores and feed primarily on zooplankton, tiny animals found in the water column. They benefit from several small feedings throughout the day rather than one large feeding. A healthy microinvertebrate population in the aquarium with a constant supply of food items like copepods and amphipods is beneficial but most anthias can be weaned onto frozen and prepared zooplanktons, Cyclop-eeze, mysis shrimp, baby brine shrimp and similar items. These fish are best kept in small harems of one male to several juveniles or females. If the aquarium cannot handle a group of 5 or more fish, most anthias can be kept alone or occasionally in a male-female pair. Suitable tankmates for anthias would be peaceful fish that will not harass these docile fish or outcompete them for food. Stressed anthias have been known to jump from an aquarium. Anthias are Reef Safe and are not normally known to bother corals or invertebrates. More information about the social structure and gender among anthias groups can be found on That Fish Blog from our staff marine biologists. This is a Restricted item and is not covered by our Arrive Alive 5-Day Guarantee. Please visit the Guarantee Policy and Restricted Species webpages for more information.

Ophiomastix sp. "Bubbletip Brittle Starfish"

Fri, 03 Feb 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The Bubbletip Brittle Starfish ( Ophiomastix sp. ) has a small central disk and thin legs. Each leg is covered in short spines with larger, paddle-shaped spines interspersed along the edges. Starfish in general are very sensitive to changes in water quality and conditions. If temperature, salinity or other water parameters change quickly, starfish cannot regulate the change and are often damaged or killed. Be sure to acclimate carefully and while doing water changes, make sure the "new" water is as close as possible to the "old" water in its parameters. Most brittle and serpent starfish are scavengers. Some may prey on snails and invertebrates while others eat detritus, leftover food, and tiny organisms in and on the substrate and rockwork. These starfish do not have the suction cup-like tubed feet common in other starfish. Their legs are instead often covered with small spines or hardened scaly plates. The names "brittle starfish" and "serpent starfish" are often used interchangeably, but "serpent starfish" usually refers to smoother-legged "brittle starfish". These starfish will usually hide in rockwork or caves and come out only to feed. Some may prey on live inverts or small fish if underfed, and they may also prey on sick, dead or dying fish. Brittle and Serpent starfish can be fed by placing a piece of clam, shrimp, scallop or other small, meaty foods by their mouth. Like many other starfish, Brittle Starfish and Serpent Starfish will sometimes break a leg off if stressed or harassed. This is seen even more in these types of starfish than in many of the thicker-bodied starfish (hence the name "brittle" starfish). As long as the starfish is otherwise healthy, these legs can regenerate and the starfish can continue to grow and thrive. These starfish often may have assymetrical legs where they have broken off and begun to grow back. This is a Restricted item and is not covered by our Arrive Alive 5-Day Guarantee. Please visit the Guarantee Policy and Restricted Species webpages for more information.

Neolamprologus multifasciatus "Multies"

Fri, 03 Feb 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Known affectionately as Multies in the aqaurium circle, these little shell dwellers are the smallest cichlid in the world. These fish are cream colored with narrow brown bars along their flanks, and reach an adult length of about 1.5 inches. On the sandy floors of Lake Tanganyika, these fish inhabit empty shells of the Neothauma snail, in the aquarium they will adapt and use a variety of other shells that you provide. The fish sleep, hide and spawn and raise fry in the shells. They have a lot of attitude for their size and will defend their territory ruthlessly. These little cichlids are relatively easy to keep and spawn in the aquarium. Provide them with a sandy bottom, some rocks or wood to explore, and clean water conditions, and don't forget the empty shells! They prefer hard water, and may be mixed with other small tankmates from the lake.

Metriaclima callainos "Cobalt Zebra"

Fri, 03 Feb 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The Cobalt Zebra, Metriaclima callainos , was previously known as Pseudotropheus cobalt. This species has solid powder blue coloration, and they may show faint bars depending on mood. Metriaclima are aggressive and should only be kept with other cichlids of similar temperament that can take their rowdy behavior. Keep these fish in small harems with one male and several females. Be sure to feed them a diet rich in greens and vegetable matter. This is very important, as too much protein can lead to deadly Malawi bloat. Typical Malawi decor such as lots of rocks and caves will be appreciated and will allow these fish to establish territory. This is a maternal mouthbrooding fish, meaning the female will keep the eggs and fry in her mouth for protection.

Mastacembelus erythrotaenia "Fire Eel" - Small

Fri, 03 Feb 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The Fire Eel is one of the largest spiny eels. It has a brown/black elongated body that is marked with bright orange to red horizontal broken lines and spots. It has a pointed snout and its dorsal and anal fins have orange to red margins. This fish is a bottom dweller that will often bury itself in the substrate or hide in crevices and caves. It feeds on worms, insect larvae, crustaceans, fish, and sometimes plant matter. Provide small grain, smooth gravel or sand so that the fish can burrow safely, as well as tubes or rock crevices for hiding places. This fish is peaceful when kept with large tankmates, but will often consume small fish.

Labeotropheus fuelleborni "Orange Blotch"

Fri, 03 Feb 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The OB Labeotropheus is immediately recognizable by its fleshy, overhanging snout and its unique orange, black and blue blotched coloration. Juveniles are blotched orange and black. Like most other Mbuna, this fish is quite aggressive and should only be kept with fish of similar temperament. Their tank decor should consist of rocky caves and a sandy substrate. This fish enjoys picking algae off of rocks. They should have plenty of algae in their diet, such as spirulina flake and veggie tabs, and they are herbivores. They will also accept any other kind of cichlid flake or pellet, as well as the occasional meaty frozen food. Fuelleborni are maternal mouthbrooders, so the female will keep the eggs and fry in her mouth for protection.

Cynotilapia afra "Cobue Orange Back" - Juvenile

Fri, 03 Feb 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Cynotilapia afra "Cobue Orange Back" - Juvenile Cyphotilapia afra "Orange Back" originally hails from Cobwe, but is still not a common offering in the aquarium trade. The dominant adult male is primarily blue, with several black vertical bars, and yellow-orange coloration over the dorsal half. Females are pale blue and may have dark bars depending on mood. These cichlids reach an averave length of about 3-3.5 inches. As with other Mbuna Cichlids, these fish are relatively non-aggressive though males will show territorial aggression, and they are best housed one male to several females in a rocky tank. They will feed on any variety of flake or pellet food, but some vegetative matter should also be supplied for well rounded nutrition.

Chaetodon collare "Redtail Butterflyfish" - Medium

Fri, 03 Feb 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The Redtail Butterfly ( Chaetodon collare , also known as the Collare Butterfly or Pakistan Butterfly) is dark grey-brown with pale cream-colored scale centers, a vertical white collar behind the eye and a red tail. This butterfly is best kept alone; more than one in the same tank will usually fight. Butterflyfish consist of a large number of fish found in the aquarium trade from the Chaetodon , Chelmon , Forcipiger , and Heniochus genuses, among others from the family Chaetodontidae . The family ranges in length from 3 inches up to close to 12 inches in length. Butterflies are usually roughly oval in body shape but longer fins make some appear elliptical or diamond-shaped. They resemble and are sometimes confused with angelfish (family Pomacentridae ) but angelfish have a cheekspine that is not found in butterflies. Butterflies are generally community fish in nature. Though some more pugnatious species may terrorize smaller or more docile fish, most can be kept with a wide range of community tankmates. Most butterfly species are not "reef safe" and will eat corals and polyps. In fact, some more delicate butterflies require corals as part of their natural diet. Butterflies may also harm smaller crustaceans (crabs and shrimp) and may pick at inverts like clams, feather dusters, anemones and similar tankmates. Use caution when introducing a butterfly into a tank with inverts; though some are considered "reef safe" by some aquarists, any butterfly may pose a risk to corals and inverts. The diet of butterflies can vary, as mentioned, based on what they normally eat in the wild. Some very picky species only pick at coral flesh and can be difficult to wean onto an aquarium-based diet. A very varied diet of algaes and meaty items like brine shrimp, mysis shrimp, scallops, clam, corals, sponges and other items is best. Vitamin supplements can also help get the butterflies all the nutrition they require. While some butterflies are very hardy and suitable for aquarists of all levels, more sensitive species should be attempted by experienced aquarists only.

Calcinus elegans "Halloween Hermit Crab"

Fri, 03 Feb 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The Halloween Hermit Crab ( Calcinus elegans ) is named for its black and orange banded legs. It is a color variation of the Electric Blue Hermit Crab, which is black and blue instead of black and orange. The Halloween Hermit Crab is found regionally around the Hawaiian Islands. Most hermit crabs are scavengers. Some smaller hermit crabs will feed on algaes like nuisance hair algae while larger hermit crabs are scavengers and carnivores. Most hermit crabs are opportunistic - they will not actively hunt for a fish or active invertebrates but will prey on sick, dead, or dying individuals. Only the larger hermits like those from the genuses Aniculus , Dardanus , Peguristes , and Petrochirus are a real threat to healthy, larger tankmates or to corals. Calcinus , Clibanarius , and Paguristes are some of the most common "clean-up crew" hermit crabs for algae control and to eat leftover foods and detritus. Hermit crabs that are underfed are also a greater threat to tankmates like snails and other invertebrates. Hermit Crabs have soft abdomens and use empty snail shells to protect their bodies. As with other crustaceans, hermit crabs must molt to grow. When they molt, they crawl out of their shell homes and shed their own hard shell to grow larger. As they grow larger, they need to find new, larger shells in which to live. Provide extra larger shells in the aquarium for the hermit crabs to move into. Hermit crabs without homes may sometimes make their own by killing the snail inside, or they may molt before they have a new shell, leaving them extremely vulnerable to predators. Crustaceans benefit from iodine and mineral supplements to help form a healthy, hard exoskeleton. Regular water changes with high quality salt mixes usually provide enough, but extra supplements may be needed in reef tanks or in tanks with heavy invertebrates loads that use up iodine and other minerals rapidly. If water changes with new, fresh saltwater are not done regularly, the minerals also get depleted and nitrates accumulate and can also be detrimental to crustaceans and other invertebrates.

Assorted Angelfish - Large

Fri, 03 Feb 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Angelfish are overwhelmingly popular in the aquarium hobby, and its easy to see why. With their assorted color patterns and beautiful flowing fins, these fish truly live up to their name. Angelfish are generally peaceful, although they can become territorial if there is inadequate space for them to live happily. A breeding couple may also become particularly nippy when protecting eggs or young. Be sure your tank is large enough to allow each fish to have their own space, and also be sure the tank is tall enough to allow the fish space for their longer finnage. The recommended tank size of 30 gallons is for a single fish or pair; increase the tank size for a community tank including angelfish. Beware of fin-nipping tankmates such as barbs. Angel fins are very tempting to these fish! A planted tank is a great home for angelfish, plus other decor, such as driftwood and rockwork, makes great hide-out areas for your fish. Water quality is also important for your angels, so keep an eye on your ammonia level, and be sure to perform water changes regularly. Angels aren't too fussy when it comes to diet. Feed them a variety such as flake or small pellets/granules once a day, changing it up with a meaty frozen food such as brine shrimp or bloodworms as their second feeding. When cared for properly, angelfish are a very friendly and rewarding species to keep!

Apistogramma cacatuoides "Double Red Cockatoo Cichlid"

Fri, 03 Feb 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The Double Red Cockatoo Cichlid is a dwarf cichlid native to Peru. These fish have rather understated color in the wild, but have been selectively bred over the years to produce brightly colored specimens like "Double Red". Males of this variant are tan and gold with brown spots and intense red-orange speckling in the dorsal fin and tail. Apistos are generally peaceful except when spawning. It is best to keep a pair, and as long as there is plenty of room, any other docile tankmates are fine. Provide the couple with a cave area and soft, dark substrate for spawning. Plants make great cover, as well. Feed them a varied omnivore diet of brine shrimp, various larvae and worms, and flake, small pellet, and vegetable matter like spirulina. This is a Restricted item and is not covered by our Arrive Alive 5-Day Guarantee. Please visit the Guarantee Policy and Restricted Species webpages for more information.

Ancistrus sp. "Albino Bushynose Pleco" - XSmall

Fri, 03 Feb 2012 00:00:00 GMT

This pleco is white or yellow in color, because it is an albino variant. Males have the namesake bushy nose, while females may have a few "whiskers", but much less noticable than males. This pleco is a particularly good algae eater, and it will nibble at plants if algae is unavailable. You can also feed this pleco frozen foods and sinking pellets, as well as fresh vegetable or fruit matter. This fish is quite peaceful, and will tend to hide during the day, so provide driftwood (preferred) or some other suitable hiding place. Tankmates can be any other peaceful, docile fish. This particular pleco is very difficult to breed.

Rhodactis sp. "Hairy Mushroom Rock" - Large

Thu, 02 Feb 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Hairy Mushrooms ( Rhodactis sp. ) are small, round anemones that show many different colors and patterns. Individuals form compact colonies over reef rock which resemble some hard corals. These mushroom have a hairy or beaded appearance to the surface of their disks, while the common Discosoma sp. mushrooms have a smoother surface. The color of surface can be striped, solid in color, edged with a different color, or have any other number of patterns and variations. The mushrooms range in color from brown to green to blue and in rare cases orange or red. These mushrooms are carnivorous and photosynthetic. While they will take food from the water column and even feed on larger items like brine shrimp, they benefit from higher lighting and will show brighter colors under more intense light. They should be given ample space in aquariums as they may damage other corals with prolonged contact. It is common for an individual mushroom to come off of a rock and settle somewhere else in the aquarium or for a mushroom to split into multiple mushroom to spread or start a new colony. Though mushrooms come in a variety of colors and patterns, they grow in colonies on rocks and therefore there will normally be only one type of mushroom on each rock. The type, size of individual mushrooms and number of mushrooms on the rock may vary. If certain types or colors are desired, please contact the Livestock Department at 1-877-367-4377 for availability.

Protopalythoa sp. "Button Polyp Rock" - Large

Thu, 02 Feb 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Button Polyps ( Protopalythoa sp. ) are an excellent choice for the reef tank beginner. They are found in various forms and colors. Typically, their polyps are brown or metallic green in coloration but some may also be red, pink, orange or combinations of colors. Some polyps will even have prominent "eyes"of white or green or may be striped or mottled on their surface. These are attractive in the aquarium due to their color and their encrusting nature. Button Polyps are larger in individual polyp diameter than many other varieties. Many species can grow to around an inch in diameter while some of the larger, more rare species can grow to two inches across. Individual polyps have fringes around the rim and have been compared in appearance to the "teeth" around a Venus Flytrap plant. Under the right conditions, these polyps may grow quickly and may be invasive to other corals. However, providing amble room between corals in the aquarium should prevent them from becoming too invasive. Invertebrate food such as MicroVert, Marine Snow, Cyclop-eeze or similar items are recommended on an occasional basis. These polyps are extremely hardy, low maintenance and adapt well to most lighting environments. However, the more light they receive, the more vibrant their coloration will be. Button Polyps secrete a toxin known as "palytoxin". This substance is known as one of the most powerful and dangerous toxins in nature, but a reaction beyond a mild skin rash is very rare. Avoid coming into contact with Button Polyps for prolonged periods or with any open cuts or wounds; the use of gloves when handling your polyps is recommended.

Nemenzophyllia turbida "Fox Coral" - Large

Thu, 02 Feb 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Fox Coral is a stunning fleshy coral that does not have a long list of requirements like many other corals. Fox Corals do best in indirect lighting and even dim, turbid conditions.. They receive most of their nutrition by absorbing the nutrients directly out of the water through their tissue membrane - an ideal adaptation for aquariums with higher organic levels or low skimming practices. Most colonies are pale tan or light green in color but these colors will be enhanced and actually become much brighter in higher lighting although, again, this lighting is not a requirement. Fox Coral colonies are usually linear and wall-shaped. As with other similar fleshy corals, Fox Corals can be damaged if the colony falls or is bumped and the sharp skeleton harms the fleshy tissue. Make sure the colony is firmly secured into position and is not buffeted by high flow.

Design Elements Sandstone Rock Cave Aq. Ornament 9.5 in. x 7.5 in. x 6.5 in.

Thu, 02 Feb 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Pure Aquatic brings you a realistically textured and weighted stone cave. Great for your fresh, saltwater or reptiles to hide in! Made from carefully-painted and durable polyresin.

Design Elements Red Staghorn Coral Ornament - 15.6 in. x 7.9 in. x 10.4 in.

Thu, 02 Feb 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Create a dazzling display in your aquarium with a Design Elements Red Staghorn Coral Ornament. Realistic colors and detailed craftsmanship make every Design Elements Ornament the perfect addition to your aquarium.

Catalaphyllia jardinei "Elegance Coral" - Large

Thu, 02 Feb 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Elegance corals are prized by many aquarists for their dramatic coloration and tissue expansion. Usually green or gold with pink tips, this coral can have a highly variable appearance depending upon where it was collected. This coral should be placed on the bottom of the aquarium in the sand bed facing upward. This coral requires medium lighting with moderate water movement. Because this coral is more difficult than some other hard corals it should be attempted only by advanced aquarists. This is a Restricted item and is not covered by our Arrive Alive 5-Day Guarantee. Please visit the Guarantee Policy and Restricted Species webpages for more information.

Carnivore Supreme - 16 oz. - Flat pack

Thu, 02 Feb 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Carnivore Supreme has large chunks for your bigger carnivores. Made from clams,squid, shrimp,krill, lance fish and scallops. Frozen food provides an excellent alternative to live food. It is easier to store and retains many of the nutrients that are lost when producing flakes, pellets or sticks. Contains no by-products, preservatives or fillers.

Alveopora sp. - Small

Thu, 02 Feb 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Alveopora sp. - Small Alveopora Corals, also known as Flowerpot or Daisy Corals, are very similar to and can often be confused with the mroe common Goniopora Corals (also known as Flowerpot Corals). The main difference in appearance between these two corals is in the "fringe" around each of the long, tentacle-like polyps. Goniopora corals have about 24 "fringes" around the edge of each tentacle while Alveopora corals only have twelve. Alveopora corals can be very delicate. They are susceptible to infection and injury and their placement in the tank is vital. They should not be placed in areas with high, direct flow and should have moderate lighting. They should also be securely anchored in place so they do not get knocked over by other tankmates or when fully expanded. These corals are photosynthetic and will produce food from the lighting in the tank but they also benefit from supplemental feeding. Planktonic foods or small food items like Cyclopeeze, baby brine shrimp, oyster eggs and similar items can be target-fed to the coral. Alveopora colonies can be ball-like or boulder-like in shape or may be found in branching colonies.

Ocean Treasures - Executive - With LED Lighting and Filter - 6 Gallon

Wed, 01 Feb 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The Ocean Treasures Executive Aquarium is the perfect addition to your office or library. The base and top have a patina wave inset and carved sand dollar, with a classic wooden finish. The internal decor looks like authentic coral. Lighting and filtration are included. The Aquarius 12-LED lighting 4-Color system has white, red, green, and blue LED lights. The lights are interchangeable and controlled by a switch. The 45 GPH Mini Might Filter is a super-efficient in-tank filtration system and includes media.

48 in. AquaticLife HID/T5/Lunar LED Fixture - 2 x 150W HID - 2 x 54W T5 - 4 LEDs

Wed, 01 Feb 2012 00:00:00 GMT

AquaticLife combination HID, T5 HO and Directional Lunar Aquarium Light fixtures feature built-in timers and fan-free cooling for quiet operation. State-of-the-art industy-first pivoting HID single-ended metal halide lighting technology gives powerful intensity. Provides 700+ nm output, the dappled-effect of metal halide, and light output greater than standard halide lamps. Energy-efficient T5 HO Lamps deliver 420/460 nm actinic light. AquaticLife Adjustable LED Lunar lights pivot 40 degrees for directing illumination. A built-in timer system controls all 3 lighting types independently for establishing a complete light cycle. Internal electronic ballasts work in conjunction with special aluminum housing to help dissipate heat away from the fixture without the use of noisy fans. German-made reflectors produce maximum lighting output. Each fixture includes adjustable width aquarium frame mounts, suspension hardware, and all bulbs. A complete reef aquarium lighting solution from AquaticLife. The 48 in. AquaticLife HID Lighting Fixture Includes: 2 -150W HID Bulb with 700+ nm output and industry first pivoting action (2) 54W, 48 in. T5 HO Bulbs with 420/460nm output 4 pivoting 1W LED lunar lights for night time viewing. 9.8 ft. power cord Not sure what HID Lighting is? Check out HID Lighting on AquaticLife Aquarium Lighting Systems on That Fish Blog for more. Metal Halide lamps produce a lot of heat. Do not place these lamps directly over anything that could catch fire or melt. AquaticLife does not recommend this fixture be placed under a canopy or hood For a limited time, receive up to $50 back when purchasing this Aquatic Light fixture. Click here for details.

Taenianotus triacanthus "Black Leaf Scorpionfish"

Tue, 31 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Taenianotus triacanthus "Black Leaf Scorpionfish" The Leaf Scorpionfish ( Taenianotus triacanthus ) has a thin body with a high, prominent dorsal fin, and frilly appendages above the eyes. They can be brown, yellow, red and a number of other variations, thought yellow and brown are the most common. The name "leaffish" come from both their body shape and their behavior of sitting on the bottom and swaying slightly in the current like a leaf in a light breeze. Lionfish and Scorpionfish are perhaps best known for the venomous spines in their dorsal and pectoral fins. The sharp spines are used by the fish to ward off predators. While special consideration should be given before placing one of these predators in your home aqaurium, they are some of the most stunning and desired fish in the aquarium trade. Fish in this family vary greatly in appearance, even between individuals of the same species. Many lionfish and scorpionfish are colored and shaped to blend in with rockwork, sponges, algae and other parts of the reefs they inhabit. These fish are voracious predators. Most species will wait for potential prey to come close before snatching it for a meal. Some, like the popular Volitan Lionfish, may actively stalk their prey. Lionfish and Scorpionfish can be fed a variety of frozen and prepared meaty foods like shrimp, clams, scallops, krill and other similar foods, but some may need live food like small feeder fish or ghost shrimp to trigger a feeding response. Those that dwell in rock or on the bottom of the aquarium may need to be target fed with tongs or a feeding stick to make sure they get adequate amounts of food. These fish are generally safe in reef aquariums as they do not eat corals or polyps, but take extra care to know where the fish is located as they may blend in very well with the rocks and corals. Do not keep these fish with shrimp, crabs or fish small enough to be eaten. The venomous spines of lionfish and other scorpionfish are used exclusively for defense. The potency of the venom varies by species, and effects can range from a strong irritation to very painful or even life-threatening reaction. Most stings in the aquarium happen accidentally, a result of the aquarist making contact with the spines while maintaining the tank. Feeding any animals in the tank by hand can increase the risk of being stung and is not recommended . Always be aware of where your lionfish or scorpionfish is when working in your aquarium, and seek medical attention immediately if a sting should occur. Visit That Fish Blog for more information from our on-staff marine biologists on Lionfish, Scorpionfish and other aquarium-related topics, including the trend of Lionfish as an Invasive Species in the Caribbean .

Pseudocheilinus evanidus "Disappearing Wrasse" - Small

Tue, 31 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The Disappearing Wrasse, or Striated Wrasse is red-orange with faint white lines on the sides and a white line from the lip to the cheek. Disappearing wrasses are known for their cryptic and solitary nature. They spend much of their time browsing on rubble and rock, but are quick to retreat if startled. They will eat small benthic invertebrates and small crustaceans found in established rock.

Melanotaenia praecox "Dwarf Neon Rainbow"

Tue, 31 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Probably the most popular of all of the rainbowfish, the Dwarf Neon Rainbow is a colorful addition to any community tank. The shimmering, irridescent blue coloration is very intense in males, along with brilliant red fins. Females feature the same coloration, though more subdued. Rainbows are active, peaceful fish that enjoy schooling, so it is best to keep in groups of 4 or more. They will do well in a peaceful community tank, as well as a slightly more aggressive tank. They aren't too fussy about tank decor but do very well in a planted tank. They will eat a variety of prepared foods including flake, granules, and frozen.

Laetacara curviceps "Dwarf Flag Cichlid" - Small

Tue, 31 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The Dwarf Flag Cichlid is a colorful and peaceful dwarf cichlid. They have rounded bodies that are light brown with some darker markings on the face and head. Mature adults have an iridescent blue sheen with yellow-orange trim in their fins. They can be kept with other community fish like tetras, barbs and similar fish, but may become nippy or territorial when spawning. They are omnivores and should be fed a varied diet of flake, pellet, spirulina and frozen foods on occasion. Dwarf Flag Cichlids tend to stay near the bottom of the tank, and prefer shelter of plants, rock and wood.

Iriatherina werneri "Threadfin Rainbow"

Tue, 31 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Threadfin rainbowfish are a very interesting species of fish! Females are pale gold overall with some faint accents and slender bodies. Males feature a pale gold color with possible reddish or yellow accents (a male is pictured above). The finnage is what makes these rainbows so stunning. Like most rainbows, these have double dorsals. The first dorsal is very high and fan-shaped. The second dorsal has elongated filaments. The anal and pelvic fins also feature elongated filaments, usually dark red to black in color. The caudal fin is deeply v-shaped and features elongated filaments, as well. The female may feature some of the same colors and fins, though much more subdued. Rainbows are an active, peaceful fish that enjoys schooling, so it is best to keep in groups of 4 or more. They will do well in a peaceful community tank, as well as a slightly more aggressive tank. They aren't too fussy about tank decor but do very well in a planted tank. They will eat a variety of prepared foods including flake, granules, and frozen.

Hyphessobrycon erythrostigma "Bleeding Heart Tetra" - Small

Tue, 31 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The Bleeding Heart Tetra has a violet-pink body with a black dorsal fin that is tipped in white. They get their common name from the blood-red spot located in the center of the body. Bleeding Heart Tetras are relatively hardy and easy to keep. They are a peaceful community fish that can be kept in most community aquaria. They will accept a variety of foods including flake or small granular foods as well as frozen brine shrimp, daphnia, and bloodworms. Bleeding Heart Tetras are schooling fish that should be kept in groups of 6 or more. Use plants, driftwood, and other decor to simulate a natural environment and to provide hiding places. They can adapt to a variety of water conditions, but prefer slightly acidic water. They make good candidates for the planted tank.

Cirrhitichthys oxycephalus "Pixie Hawkfish"

Tue, 31 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The Pixie Hawkfish ( Cirrhitichthys oxycephalus ) is white with reddish-brown spots and blotches. It is very similar to the Spotted Hawkfish ( C. aprinus ) but the Pixie Hawkfish has a spotted tail and does not have the singular, conspicuous spots behind its eyes that is seen on the Spotted Hawkfish. Hawkfish are generally hardy fish with tons of "personality". They do not have swim bladders like most other fish and can usually be found perching on the substrate or rockwork. When a potential meal or invaders to their territorial swims (or crawls) by, the hawkfish will swoop in like their avian namesakes. They are always alert and will "hop" from perch to perch to investigate their surroundings. These fish can be kept with most other tankmates in a community or reef aquarium. Aside from any irritation that their perching may cause, they will not bother or damage corals and stationary invertebrates. They will, however, prey on smaller tankmates and crustaceans like shrimp. Hawkfish are not picky eaters and will almost always act hungry. They can be fed a variety of size-appropriate meaty foods (various types of shrimp, scallop, krill, fish flesh, plankton, squid, etc.) and most will also accept prepared foods like flakes and pellets. Larger hawkfish can be given live ghost shrimp as an occasional treat.

Centropyge potteri "Potter's Angel" - Small

Tue, 31 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Potter's Angels ( Centropyge potteri ) are truly stunning fish found only around Hawaii and the nearby Johnston Atoll. They are orange with violet-blue scribbled markings over the head, dorsal area, and belly. The flanks have dark markings, and the rear portion is more blue with black markings. Coloration may vary with age and the collection area. The smaller angelfish and "pygmy angelfish" available in the aquarium trade include those from the genera Apolemichthys , Centropyge , Chaetodontoplus , Genicanthus , and a few others. Of these, Apolemichthys and Chaetodontoplus are generally the largest. Centropyge is the largest group and some fish have been separated into new species and genera in recent years. Suitable tankmates for most of these angels would be community fish like tangs, clownfish, damsels, gobies, blennies, butterflies and similar fish. More shy and passive angels can be kept with smaller, more docile tankmates. Angels should not be kept with other angels in the home aquarium to avoid territorial conflicts. Occasionally, two angels may tolerate one another in a very large aquarium if they have very different coloration and appearance, but is not typical. All angels have cheekspines at the edge of their gill cover and in the dorsal fin; use caution when handling and avoid using a net that they may become stuck or tangled in. The diet of angels generally consists of meaty foods and algaes. They can be fed a variety of frozen items like formulas, mysis shrimp, brine shrimp, scallops and others, as well as pellets, flakes, algae sheets and other foods. Many can be kept successfully in a reef, but use caution with any angels in a reef system, especially with polyps and SPS corals; some have been known to nip at the occasionally polyp, coral or clam mantle but not to the extent of the larger angel species. Visit That Fish Blog for an Overview on Natural History and Care of Marine Angelfishes as well as a Species Profile on the Pygmy Angelfish and more from our marine biologists and aquatic staff. This is a Restricted item and is not covered by our Arrive Alive 5-Day Guarantee. Please visit the Guarantee Policy and Restricted Species webpages for more information.

TetraMin Tablets - 1040 Tabs - 10.93 oz.

Mon, 30 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

TetraMin Tablets is a highly nutritious food, which offers bottom dwelling fish, such as catfish and loaches, a varied diet to suit their particular needs. TetraMin Tablets contain essential nutrients and stabilized Vitamin C, and is designed to help promote the development of the natural pink to orange-red colors of our fish.

Echinodorus bleheri "Amazon Sword" - Medium

Mon, 30 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Amazon Swords ( Echinodorus bleheri ) are one of the most frequent plants found in home aquariums today. Their large, tall, spear-like leaves help to fill in large areas of a tank and still provide plenty of swimming room for your fish.They can grow to a height of between 7- 20 inches, although few reach the higher end of this range. The Amazon Sword does grow too large for many aquariums, however. They should have moderate to high lighting in order to thrive. "Sword Plants" come primarily from the Echinodorus genus and are marsh or bog plants from the tropical western hemisphere (North, South and Central America as well as some islands in the region). While there are around 30 scientifically accepted species, many species are cross-bred and propagated by hobbyists and nurseries to create numerous variants and hybrids. While swords may grow emerged in the wild (with their leaves out of the water), they are well adapted to submerged life in the aquarium as well. Emerged plants grow flowers, while submerged plants will reproduce by sending out runners to grow new plants. Most swords need high lighting to thrive. They also benefit from a nutrient-rich substrate and iron and CO 2 supplements, especially in heavily planted aquariums. Visit That Fish Blog for more information from our marine biologists and aquatic staff on Planted Aquariums and other aquarium-related topics!

Tridacna crocea "Ultra Grade Crocea Clam" - Small/Medium

Fri, 27 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Tridacna crocea "Ultra Grade Crocea Clam" - Small/Medium Clams are wonderful additions to any reef aquaria but do have some requirements that make them more difficult than other inverts to keep. Some research is recommended before purchasing one to find out what species will work the best in your reef aquarium. Crocea Clams ( Tridacna crocea ) range in color from blue to purple to green, often a combination of these colors, and sometimes having golden markings. They may also have a metallic or iridescent sheen to their mantles. The mantles scallop gracefully over the edge of their shells. They are normally found in very shallow waters high in the reef where they often live embedded in the reef itself and may even be exposed during low tide. This clam should be place on a hard, firm surface where they can use their byssal threads to anchor themselves. Crocea Clams will often dissolve the coral or rock around it to form a "burrow" in which they live, giving them the name "Boring Giant Clam" in some areas. The shell of Crocea Clams may be slightly yellow or orange tinted when clean or around the inner rim. The hinge can be 1/3 to 1/2 as long as the entire shell and the shell itself is usually slightly rounded. The folds in the shell are not very pronounced and tend to be more prominent towards the top. Crocea's harvested from the wild usually do not have pronounced "scutes" along the outside of the shell, while aquacultured clams that have not been grown in an environment where they are burrowing into hard surfaces may have larger scutes. The "byssal opening" where the foot and byssal threads are extended from on the bottom of the clam is larger on Crocea's than most other Tridacna clams. This both allows the clam to attach itself very firmly and gives potential predators or parasites an opening into the clam. Croceas are also one of the more delicate of the Tridacna species, requiring strong lighting and ideal water quality. In the aquarium, place high in the tank under direct light (Metal Halide, VHO, or Power Compact). Smaller clams with smaller mantles rely heavily on planktonic foods filtered from the water for their nutrition. They should be fed regularly with various types of planktonic foods like phytoplankton, zooplankton, oyster eggs, rotifers and similar items. Avoid keeping with potential predators or tankmates that may nip at the clam's mantle like some wrasses, angelfish, crabs, and others. For more information on these and other clams, visit the Giant Clams Species Profile on That Fish Blog by our staff marine biologists. The clam pictured above is representative only - the coloration of the clam you receive may vary. Please contact the Livestock department for information on availability of specific colorations.

Trachyphyllia geoffroyi "Red Open Brain Coral" - Medium

Fri, 27 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Trachyphyllia geoffroyi "Red Open Brain Coral" - Medium Open Brain Corals are one of the more common corals kept in aquaria, and are a good choice for those just getting started with stony corals. They are usually found with green and/or red coloration with the more common coloration being shades of green. They have a hard skeleton that is covered with fleshy tissues that expand and make the coral look much larger then they actually are. The shape is generally large-lobed and may be flat or dome-shaped. Round or figure-eight-shaped corals are also common. Care must be taken when placing the coral in the aquarium so that nothing will damage the soft tissue. When placing them in the aquarium place them on the substrate or mid-way in the aquarium where they will receive the most direct light. Open Brain Corals can become shocked and potentially bleached (a rapid die-off of the algae in its tissue) after rapid changes in the intensity of its lighting. Always acclimate carefully, especially if increasing the light intensity. Most of the coral's nutrients come from the symbiotic algaes that benefit from this lighting, but supplemental feedings are also beneficial. Open Brain Corals will extend long feeder tentacles at night and should be target fed about an hour after the lighting is off. Though they generally prefer moderate to high flow, decrease the flow while feeding to give the coral a chance to feed. Some Trachyphyllia have been known to capture larger meaty foods including small fish and invertebrates. Trachyphyllia corals is synonymous with Wellsophyllia coral. Wellsophyllia was formerly a seperate genus but has since been reclassified into the Trachyphyllia genus and is considered a Trachyphyllia variation.

Trachyphyllia geoffroyi "Red & Green Dome Open Brain"

Fri, 27 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Open Brain Corals are one of the more common corals kept in aquaria, and are a good choice for those just getting started with stony corals. They are usually found with green and/or red coloration with the more common coloration being shades of green. They have a hard skeleton that is covered with fleshy tissues that expand and make the coral look much larger then they actually are. The shape is generally large-lobed and may be flat or dome-shaped. Round or figure-eight-shaped corals are also common. Care must be taken when placing the coral in the aquarium so that nothing will damage the soft tissue. When placing them in the aquarium place them on the substrate or mid-way in the aquarium where they will receive the most direct light. Open Brain Corals can become shocked and potentially bleached (a rapid die-off of the algae in its tissue) after rapid changes in the intensity of its lighting. Always acclimate carefully, especially if increasing the light intensity. Most of the coral's nutrients come from the symbiotic algaes that benefit from this lighting, but supplemental feedings are also beneficial. Open Brain Corals will extend long feeder tentacles at night and should be target fed about an hour after the lighting is off. Though they generally prefer moderate to high flow, decrease the flow while feeding to give the coral a chance to feed. Some Trachyphyllia have been known to capture larger meaty foods including small fish and invertebrates. Trachyphyllia corals is synonymous with Wellsophyllia coral. Wellsophyllia was formerly a seperate genus but has since been reclassified into the Trachyphyllia genus and is considered a Trachyphyllia variation.

Sphyraena barracuda "Barracuda" - Small

Fri, 27 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The Barracuda is an aggressive opportunistic predator that will eat any fish that it can fit in it's mouth. Their silver, stream-lined bodies are built for speed and will easily catch any fish. They may have to be fed live food as juveniles for a time and then slowly moved onto frozen food as they grow. Barracudas grow quite large quickly and need very large tanks to attain their full size. Long-term tankmates will have to be chosen carefully. This is a Restricted item and is not covered by our Arrive Alive 5-Day Guarantee. Please visit the Guarantee Policy and Restricted Species webpages for more information.

Red Mushroom Rock - Large

Fri, 27 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Mushrooms are small, round anemones that show many different colors and patterns. Individuals form compact colonies over reef rock which resemble some hard corals. The surface of the polyp can be tightly beaded like a carpet anemone or smooth in appearance. The color of surface can be striped, solid in color, edged with a different color, or have any other number of patterns and variations. The mushrooms range in color from brown to green to blue and in rare cases orange or red. The mushroom sold here are red in overall coloration. The shade of red may vary, as well as accent colors on each individual mushroom. These mushrooms are carnivorous and photosynthetic. While they will take food from the water column and even feed on larger items like brine shrimp, they benefit from higher lighting and will show brighter colors under more intense light. They should be given ample space in aquariums as they may damage other corals with prolonged contact. It is common for an individual mushroom to come off of a rock and settle somewhere else in the aquarium or for a mushroom to split into multiple mushroom to spread or start a new colony. Though mushrooms come in a variety of colors and patterns, they grow in colonies on rocks and therefore there will normally be only one type of mushroom on each rock. The type, size of individual mushrooms and number of mushrooms on the rock may vary. If certain types or colors are desired, please contact the Livestock Department at 1-877-367-4377 for availability.

Pro Scraper Aquarium Cleaning Tool - 24 in.

Fri, 27 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Clean that tough algae off your glass or acrylic aquarium with the Kent Pro Scraper. This well-made, durable scraper will even remove the algae from old scratches. The 23 in. long handle has a super-long reach - great for deep tanks. Includes plastic replacement blade. Plastic for glass or acrylic aquariums. Includes plastic blade only Steel blade sold seperately for glass aquariums.

Plerogyra sp. "Green Bubble Coral" - Medium

Fri, 27 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Bubble Corals ( Plerogyra sp. ) get their name from the daytime expansion of their tissue. Also called Cat's Eye or Grape Coral, these corals can have a variety of blue and pearl colorations as well as more rare green varieties. These corals are considered aggressive because they use sweeper tentacles that can expand several inches at night for feeding. They will also use these sweeper tentacles to sting adjacent corals if they are a threat to their territory. For this reason they will need sufficient room to be able to expand. These corals require medium to high light, and require low water movement for full expansion. In most tanks they should be placed midway and higher in the tank to thrive. As Bubble Corals can expand and can easily be damaged by their sharp skeletons, Bubble Corals should be firmly secured into place to prevent them from falling over.

Pachyclavularia sp. "Star Polyp Frag"

Fri, 27 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Star polyps are found in oceans around the world, but are commonly harvested from the Indo-Pacific. They are are found in various forms and colors. Typically their polyps are white, brown, or metallic green in coloration. Some polyps will even have prominent "eyes"of white or green. These are attractive in the aquarium due to their color and their encrusting nature. Under the right conditions this species may grow quickly and may be invasive to other corals. However, providing amble room between corals in the aquarium should prevent them from becoming too invasive. Invertebrate food such as MicroVert, Marine Snow, or Cyclop-eeze are recommended on an occasional basis.

Maroxy - Freshwater - 16 oz.

Fri, 27 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Effective treatment for True Fungal Infections of fish and eggs and also for bacterial diseases. A fungal infection will have the look of whitish tufts of cotton-like material on the fishes body. Bacterial diseases are often what look like red sores on a fish and are often found as a secondary infection.

Goniopora sp. "Colored Flower Pot Coral" - Large

Fri, 27 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Flower Pot Corals are tempting, spectacular corals in the aquarium. However, their long term survival is dependent on the right conditions. Only the advanced reef aquarist should attempt keeping this species of coral. Expanded, this coral forms a ball of large tentacles, looking much like a blooming bunch of flowers. Most commonly found in shades of green or tan, rare specimens are found in red and purple. Branching structures are also sometimes found with the colonies on the ends of thick, bulbous branches. Goniopora sp. corals are very closely related to another group of corals, Alveopora sp. , with the primary difference being tentacle length and the number of fringes around the rim of each tentacle. Goniopora sp. corals usually have longer tentacles and 24 fringes around each rim while Alveopora sp. only has 12. Alveopora sp. also usually has a more opaque color than the more translucent Goniopora sp. . Both may be known as Flower Pot Corals. Place this coral in medium to high light and medium water movement. Make sure that the coral is secure, as it is prone to falling when expanded. Occassionally, a clownfish may attempt to host in Goniopora sp. corals since their appearance in the water resembles an anemone. This often results in damage to or even loss of the coral since the clownfish's actions often damage the flesh of the coral where it is rubbed against the coral's skeleton.

Glossostigma elatinoides "Glosso"

Fri, 27 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Glossostigma elatinoides "Glosso" Glosso ( Glossostigma elatinoides ) is typically a small foreground plant that can grow rapidly and even overcome tanks without regular pruning. While it typically prefers high light and will spread across surfaces in higher lighting tanks, it will become taller with larger leaves in tanks with poor lower lighting. It has pairs of small rounded green leaves and may develop small white flowers. Bunched plants are typically sold as cuttings that are bound together with a metal plant weight or rubber bands. These individual stalks can be planted by inserting the end of the stalk into the substrate, either individually or - with some plants - in groupings of several stalks. Most bunch plants do not have roots but may grow roots in time. They can be easily pruned by trimming the stalk at the desired height. The trimmings can then be planted as well if desired. Some bunched plants do not need to be planted and may be allowed to float on the water's surface.

Galaxea sp. "Green Galaxy Coral" - XLarge

Fri, 27 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Galaxy Corals ( Galaxea sp. ) are very popular with many aquarists because of their hardiness and beauty. Most will consist of large colonies of separate corallites with small tentacles extending from each one. Be careful when placing this coral near other corals as it has "sweeper tentacles" that can stretch up to 5 inches from the colony and will sting other corals that may compete for space. A moderate flow of water over the coral allows for sufficient feeding. Invertebrate foods such as Marine Snow or Microvert along with other types should be fed once or twice a week and care must be taken to make sure water quality is always good. If the tank contains extremely strong lighting, this coral may be placed on the substrate of the tank but generally mid to upper levels of the tank are a more appropriate choice.

Ferret Costume - Lady Bug

Fri, 27 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Even your furry can have some halloween fun! These soft, hand washable costumes are easy to put on any ferret or small animal. He'll be cute as a bug and ready for trick or treat!

Favia sp., Favites sp. "Red-eyed Moon Coral" - Large

Fri, 27 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Favia sp., Favites sp. "Red-eyed Moon Coral" - Large Moon Corals get their name because of its spherical-cratered skeleton. On Favites sp. , individual polyps share walls with neighboring polyps. Also known as Moon corals, Favia sp. corals have a similiar structure except that walls between individual polyps are not shared. Most Moon Corals are green, some brightly flourescent, and can either form spherical "moons" or be encrusting. Lighting is important and should be between 3-5 watts per gallon. The coral should generally be placed mid- to the upper level in the aquarium. They will compete with other corals for space so be sure to leave a few inches between each coral to allow them room to grow. Be sure to keep the calcium level up so the skeletal structure of the coral will remain strong and healthy.

Euphyllia divisa "Green Frogspawn Coral" - Medium

Fri, 27 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Frogspawn corals get their name from the multi-tipped tentacles that they have. The tentacles give the appearance of a mass of frog eggs before hatching. Frogspawn are aggressive because their tentacles can extend several inches and have a powerful sting. Make sure that they are given enough room to move in the current without contacting other specimens in the aquarium. Place in medium to high light, with moderate water movement. Invertebrate food should be fed to these corals once or twice a week depending on the bio load in the aquarium.

Euphyllia ancora "Wall Hammer Coral" - Medium

Fri, 27 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Hammer corals get their name from unique hammer or horseshoe shaped tips on the tentacles that they use to filter feed and as a home for its symbiotic zooxanthallae algae. It is one of the easier large-polyp hard corals that many aquarists "graduate" to after polyps and mushrooms. Branching Hammer corals ( Euphyllia parancora ) have distinctly branched skeletons, with well formed heads of polyps while Wall Hammer Corals ( Euphyllia ancora ) have a more solid structure that grows in a wall or boulder-like shape. When fully extended, the Hammer coral can resemble an anemone and a clownfish may sometimes attempt to host in the tentacles and may damage the coral. The tentacles on Hammer Coral colonies can range anywhere from tan or golden yellow to more rare colonies of bright green. These corals are aggressive in that the tentactles can extend several inches and carry a powerful sting. Do not allow these corals to come in contact with other corals, as they can easily kill weaker stinging specimens. Hammer Corals should be oriented so that the tissue of the coral is facing the light, provide medium to strong lighting, and random water movement. Some form of invertebrate food is recommended to be added once or twice a week.

Entacmaea quadricolor "Rose Anemone" - Medium

Fri, 27 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Rose Anemones ( Entacmaea quadricolor ) are rare, bright pink color variants of the popular and very common Bubbletip Anemone. Their color can range from light pink to a darker reddish magenta. Bubbletip Anemones get their name from their ability to inflate the tips of their tentacle into bubble or bulb shapes. Tentacle appearance can change dramatically from long with no bulb at all, to short, bubble-like tentacles. The bulbs are usually the most developed when a clownfish is using the anemone as a host. Anemones get most of their nutrition from the aquarium lighting and dissolved nutrients in the water but occasional feedings are beneficial. Shrimp, clam, krill and other meaty foods can be fed occassionally by placing the food on top of the anemone near its mouth and making sure no other tankmates take it before the anemone can take it in. Anemones have a high aggressiveness rating because they are mobile and have strong nematocysts (stinging cells) that can kill or damage other corals or animals. They will need large areas in which to expand their tentacles and should be placed in an aquarium that will allow them to open fully. Once they stay in a particular place, make sure no corals are to close as they may sting the coral in an attempt to keep it out of the territory. Anemones can sting people - avoid touching the tentacles of any anemone without proper protection, especially if you have sensitive skin or known allergies to other stings like bees or wasps. When first placed in the aquarium, they are known to move around to find the place where they feel they are having all their requirements met. This will normally happen anytime a change is made to their environment. Most anemones like to have their bases under a ledge or in a hole for protection, in a position that their tentacles can extend into the light. Lighting and water movement may affect the appearance, as may the presence of clownfish hosting in the tentacles. They generally need medium direct light with medium water movement. While the interaction between anemones and clownfish (or other hosting tankmates like anemone crabs or anemone shrimp) can be interesting to watch, a clownfish is not necessary for the survival of an anemone and vice versa. Most clownfish have preferences for the types of anemones they will host in but may or may not choose a specific anemone as a host. Visit That Fish Blog for more information from our marine biologists on anemone and clownfish preferences. This is a Restricted item and is not covered by our Arrive Alive 5-Day Guarantee. Please visit the Guarantee Policy and Restricted Species webpages for more information.

Cladiella sp. "Colt Coral" - Medium

Fri, 27 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Colt Corals ( Cladiella sp. ) are one of the easiest corals for beginners. Colors can vary from browns to pinks or yellows. Bushy polyps extend from tree-like trunks and are usually darker than the base color of the colony. The colony itself is slippery in texture compared to many other rougher corals with a similar appearance. Colt Corals adapt well to most conditions, although they will have brighter colors under more intense lighting. They receive some of their nutrition from the photosynthetic algae in their tissues but will also filter-feed and absorb some nutrients and minerals from the water. The corals should be supplements with planktonic filter-feeder foods, especially under less intense lighting. Colt Corals are one of the more aggressive leather corals. They should not be placed close to sensitive corals as they will "attack" and show aggression towards other corals by releasing slightly toxic chemicals into the surrounding water. They shed a mucus layer periodically that can irritate other corals and they can also grow fairly quickly, outcompeting and overgrowing neighboring colonies. These corals are easy to propagate and "frag" in home aquariums. A piece of the colony can be cut off with a sharp blade or shears and allowed to re-attach to a hard base like a frag plug, piece of rubble rock or shell. Reduce the flow around the new frag until it attaches or use a piece of netting or fishing line to help the new piece stay in place.

Caulastrea sp. "Green Trumpet Coral" - Small

Fri, 27 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Caulastrea sp. "Green Trumpet Coral" - Small Trumpet Coral, also known as Candy Cane or Bullseye Coral, is an excellent choice for the aquarist who is making a move towards stony corals. Calaustrea is hardy and attractive, and relatively easy to care for. Individual polyps branch from a central skeleton, often with contrasting stripes or brightly colored centers. They may have thick, compact branches or delicate branches with small polyp heads. The only caution is that this species extends sweeper tentacles at night, so do not place it too close to other corals. Place this coral high in the tank so it will receive a high amount of lighting and place where it will receive medium random water movement.

Canthigaster compressa "Compressed Toby"

Fri, 27 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The Compressed Toby ( Canthigaster compressa ) is also known as the Fingerprint Toby. It is tan with a lighter underside and a black eyespot at the rear of its dorsal fin. Its entire body is covered with a network of fine bluish lines that resemble that of a human fingerprint. Puffers are not too demanding in terms of care, but they need plenty of space and ample filtration to keep the water quality pristine. They're messy eaters, and the diet required for these fish can leave a lot of waste. Puffers have strong, ever-growing front teeth (beak) that they will need to wear down. They may chew on live rock in the tank to aid in the process. Feeding hard-shelled items, such as whole clams or shellfish, can also help to keep the teeth worn. "Toby Puffers" or "Sharpnose Puffers" ( Canthigaster sp. ) have a much different appearance than their larger relatives. These puffers stay much smaller - usually under about 5 inches in length - and have a pointed face. They are generally peaceful toward other fish, but will not tolerate other puffers. They also have a reputation for being "fin nippers", and should not be kept with invertebrates or with passive or showy-finned fish. Tobies are bold eaters that do best on a diet of frozen meaty foods like clams, mussels, squid, and shrimp (shells intact) as well as some algae. All puffers can be destructive inverts and corals so it is not recommended that they be housed in reef tanks. It is important to never provoke a puffer to see it inflate. Puffing is a stress or defense reaction, and it can cause health problems or even death for a puffer. The fish can swallow air or over-inflate with water, leading to even more stress as the fish attempted to recover and even death due to stress-related complications or internal injuries. If a puffer inflates, remove the source of the stress, lower the lighting on the tank and allow the fish to recover on its own. Avoid using a net or removing the puffer from the water and exposing it to air. Instead, transfer with rigid containers, which will minimize stress that can cause them to puff. Visit That Fish Blog for more information from our marine biologists on Pufferfish and other aquarium-related topics!

Brachygobius xanthozona "Bumblebee Goby"

Fri, 27 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The Bumblebee Goby is a tiny fish with a yellow body and four wide black vertical bands. The fins are yellow, excluding the dorsal and anal fins, which are black. The pectoral fins are also black. Though the Bumblebee Goby is sometimes kept in freshwater, they prefer and thrive in brackish water. They are relatively peaceful, and can be kept with most small community species. They like to hide, so provide plenty of hiding places. When you receive your Bumblebee Goby, they will typically only be about an inch long. Due to its diminutive size, these gobies are often mistaken for food, and should not be kept with large or aggressive fish. Bumblebee Gobies have sometimes been known to be territorial and will stake out and defend a small area, so make sure that the tank is at least ten gallons if you keep more than one.

Anubias barteri var. 'coffeefolia'

Fri, 27 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The type of Anubias plant commonly known as coffeefolia has waxy, ribbed, dark green foliage. These plants are very hardy and can be kept in environments where the water hardness and pH are quite high. They are a slow growing plant and may be used as a foreground to mid-ground plant in the home aquarium. They may be planted in gravel or rooted onto rock or driftwood.

Amphiprion ocellaris "Semi-Snowflake Clownfish" - Tankraised

Fri, 27 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The Ocellaris Clownfish ( Amphiprion ocellaris ) is one of the most popular and well-known saltwater aquarium fish and has especially gained popularity since the release of Disney's "Finding Nemo". This clownfish has the appearance that most people think of for a clownfish - a bright orange body with three white bands narrowly outlined in black. Ocellaris Clownfish are very similar to Percula Clownfish ( A. percula ). Percula Clownfish have wider black margins to the white bands as they mature; younger individuals are almost indistinguishable between the two species. Many variations of the "natural" Ocellaris Clownfish exist, especially among tankraised individuals. Some of the most popular include "Misbars" (incomplete white bands), "Black" (dark brown or black color instead of orange), "Snowflake" (broad or irregular white bands) , "Naked" (no white stripes), "Caramel" (a more brown color instead of orange), "Midnight" (black with no white bars) and combinations of these traits. Clownfish are some of the hardiest and most traditional fish for marine aquariums. They generally come from two genuses - most are in the genus Amphiprion with one species in the genus Premnas - and all are found in the Pomacentridae family along with damsels and chromises. They are some of the mostly widely tankraised fish, leading to more man-made variations becoming available like Misbars and Albinos as species are selectively bred and crossed. It is usually best to keep one clownfish per tank, though a pair can sometimes be kept if one is significantly smaller than the other or are about the same size when added as juveniles. One fish will develop into a female and become larger in size while the other (or others, in large tanks) will remain male. As the fish mature, they may also become aggressive towards new arrivals (or hands in the tank), so be prepared for aggression to follow even if the new fish is large in size. Mixing tankraised and wild-caught individuals is generally not recommended since their immunity and exposure to diseases and parasites may be different. Clownfish are generally not fussy eaters, and will accept a range of frozen and prepared foods like flakes, pellets, and frozen formulas. They can benefit from some plant matter in their diet, although they are not considered herbivores and do need some meaty foods. Some clownfish can be sensitive to toxins, especially heavy metal based medications like copper. Though the interaction between anemones and clownfish is amusing to watch, it is not necessary to the survival of either animal. Some clownfish will only host in specific anemones and vice versa. A host anemone should generally have a diameter of at least twice the length of the clownfish when introduced together for the best health of both the clownfish and the anemone. Tankraised fish can also be less likely to use a host anemone than wild-caught fish. Visit That Fish Blog for more information from our marine biologists on clownfish social structure and gender , anemone selection and preferences and other clownfish-related topics. NOTE: No two Snowflake and Semi-Snowflake Clownfish are alike. The fish you receive may vary in appearance from the example pictured here.

Acanthastrea lordhowensis "Ultra Lordhowensis Coral Frag"

Fri, 27 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Acanthastrea lordhowensis "Ultra Lordhowensis Coral Frag" Acanthastrea is a fast-growing large polyp stony coral similar to Blastomussa corals. It is an easy species to keep in an aquarium and grows best under moderate lighting. Acanthastrea is often intensely colored, with mixtures of blue, red, green, orange, purple, and more. The soft tissue tends to be heavy with mottled coloring. Australian colonies are expecially prized for their color. This coral relies heavily on photosynthesis for growth but will readily accept meaty foods such as mysis shrimp, baby brine shrimp and other similar items. The more often it is fed, the faster it will grow.

Seriatopora hystrix "Hyacinth Bird's Nest Frag" (ORA)

Thu, 26 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Bird's Nest Corals grow in a colony with thin branches that grow in random directions to resemble the tangle of twigs of a bird's nest. They grow best under bright lighting and moderate to high flow. This is one of the most popular corals among coral propogators and many varieties of frags are available. ORA Frags are propogated by Oceans, Reefs & Aquariums, the largest marine ornamental fish hatchery in the world. They continuously develop new frags and many are available in very limited quantities. We are proud to offer ORA's corals as part of our coral frag collection.

Select Parrot Cage with Wrought Iron - 24 in. x 20 in. x 60 in. - Sage

Thu, 26 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

A parrot paradise with Prevue Hendryx Select Bird Cages. Large design includes lots of exciting features for you and your pet. Rounded corner seed guards and a pull-out grille and tray make clean-up simple. Metal casters let you place the cage where you need it, or move it outside to give your pet some fresh air and sunshine. A full playtop area includes everything you need to keep your parrot occupied, including a ladder and 2 stainless steel feeding cups. An extra-large door easily accommodates parrots and people. 2 additional cups and 2 solid wood perches are also included to round out this parrot palace. Made in the U.S.A. Please call customer service to determine shipping costs at 1-888-THAT PET. Item is dropshipped directly from the manufacturer.

Select Cockatiel Cage with Wrought Iron - 18 in. x 18 in. x 57 in. - Sage

Thu, 26 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

One of the most advanced, stylish, and feature-loaded cockatiel cage available. Prevue Hendryx's Select series is packed with a world of amenities to keep you and your bird satisfied. An easy pull-out tray, seed guard and grille make these cages simple to clean. A full playpen top includes a ladder and 2 stainless steel cups to keep your bird fully occupied and satisfied. Huge door provides easy entrance and exit for you and your bird, while a full set of metal casters let you take the cage where you need it. Also includes 2 additional stainless steel cups and 2 wooden perches. 3/4 in. bar spacing. Please call customer service to determine shipping costs at 1-888-THAT PET. Item is dropshipped directly from the manufacturer.

Select Cockatiel Cage with Wrought Iron - 18 in. x 18 in. x 57 in. - Jade Green

Thu, 26 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Select Cockatiel Cage with Wrought Iron - 18 in. x 18 in. x 57 in. - Garnet Red

Thu, 26 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Select Cockatiel Cage with Wrought Iron - 18 in. x 18 in. x 57 in. - Black

Thu, 26 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Premnas biaculeatus "Goldstripe Maroon Clownfish" - Small Tankraised

Thu, 26 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The Maroon Clownfish ( Premnas biaculeatus ) typically has a deep red body color and three thin white stripes: behind the head, through the middle of the fish and at the base of the tail. The Goldstripe Maroon Clownfish is a natural color variety that has thicker golden yellow stripes instead of white. Small individuals may have very faintly yellow or ivory-white stripes which deepen to gold as the fish matures. Though Maroon Clowns grow larger and more aggressive than most other clownfish species, the Goldstripe variety tends to stay smaller than the white-striped variant. Clownfish are some of the hardiest and most traditional fish for marine aquariums. They generally come from two genuses - most are in the genus Amphiprion with one species in the genus Premnas - and all are found in the Pomacentridae family along with damsels and chromises. They are some of the mostly widely tankraised fish, leading to more man-made variations becoming available like Misbars and Albinos as species are selectively bred and crossed. It is usually best to keep one clownfish per tank, though a pair can sometimes be kept if one is significantly smaller than the other or are about the same size when added as juveniles. One fish will develop into a female and become larger in size while the other (or others, in large tanks) will remain male. As the fish mature, they may also become aggressive towards new arrivals (or hands in the tank), so be prepared for aggression to follow even if the new fish is large in size. Mixing tankraised and wild-caught individuals is generally not recommended since their immunity to diseases and parasites may be different. Clownfish are generally not fussy eaters, and will accept a range of frozen and prepared foods like flakes, pellets, and frozen formulas. They can benefit from some plant matter in their diet, although they are not considered herbivores and do need some meaty foods. Some clownfish can be sensitive to toxins, especially heavy metal based medications like copper. Though the interaction between anemones and clownfish is amusing to watch, it is not necessary to the survival of either animal. Some clownfish will only host in specific anemones and vice versa. A host anemone should generally have a diameter of at least twice the length of the clownfish when introduced together. Tankraised fish can also be less likely to use a host anemone than wild-caught fish. Visit That Fish Blog for more information from our marine biologists on clownfish social structure and gender , anemone selection and preferences and other clownfish-related topics.

Corner Parrot Cage - 37 in. x 27 in. x 63 in. High

Thu, 26 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Conveniently stash this roomy parrot cage in the corner of your room for the ultimate in quality and space savings. Playtop includes 2 stainless steel cups, ladder and a perch for outside the cage fun. A pull-out bottom grill and tray system makes clean-up simple. Other features include 2 additional stainless steel feeder cups for the main cage, a storage shelf for stashing extra food and toys, metal casters for easy movement, and a 35 in. x 24 in. x 27 in. interior. 7/8 in. bar spacing. Please call customer service to determine shipping costs at 1-888-THAT PET. Item is dropshipped directly from the manufacturer.

Coralife High Output T5 Lamp - 10,000K - 30 in. - 31W

Thu, 26 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Energy efficient T5 HO Bulbs from Coralife provide the perfect output for most aquarium applications. 10,000K bulbs' high lumen output simulates midday tropical sun and is ideal for freshwater or saltwater aquariums.

Centropyge tibicen "Keyhole Pygmy Angel" - Medium

Thu, 26 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The Keyhole Pygmy Angel ( Centropyge tibicen ) is the largest of the Centropyge pygmies. They are black with a distinctive white patch or "belt" on their sides. The pelvic and anal fins are partly yellow and the dorsal and tail may have blue trim. The smaller angelfish and "pygmy angelfish" available in the aquarium trade include those from the genera Apolemichthys , Centropyge , Chaetodontoplus , Genicanthus , and a few others. Of these, Apolemichthys and Chaetodontoplus are generally the largest. Centropyge is the largest group and some fish have been separated into new species and genera in recent years. Suitable tankmates for most of these angels would be community fish like tangs, clownfish, damsels, gobies, blennies, butterflies and similar fish. More shy and passive angels can be kept with smaller, more docile tankmates. Angels should not be kept with other angels in the home aquarium to avoid territorial conflicts. Occasionally, two angels may tolerate one another in a very large aquarium if they have very different coloration and appearance, but is not typical. All angels have cheekspines at the edge of their gill cover and in the dorsal fin; use caution when handling and avoid using a net that they may become stuck or tangled in. The diet of angels generally consists of meaty foods and algaes. They can be fed a variety of frozen items like formulas, mysis shrimp, brine shrimp, scallops and others, as well as pellets, flakes, algae sheets and other foods. Many can be kept successfully in a reef, but use caution with any angels in a reef system, especially with polyps and SPS corals; some have been known to nip at the occasionally polyp, coral or clam mantle but not to the extent of the larger angel species. Visit That Fish Blog for an Overview on Natural History and Care of Marine Angelfishes as well as a Species Profile on the Pygmy Angelfish and more from our marine biologists and aquatic staff.

Amphiprion clarkii "Pearl-eye Clark's Clownfish" - Tankraised

Thu, 26 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Amphiprion clarkii "Pearl-eye Clark's Clownfish" - Tankraised The Clark's Clownfish ( Amphiprion clarkii ) is highly variable in color depending on factors like age and region. This tankraised variant has a pearly blue spot in front of each eye. The body color can range from a light yellow-orange color to almost entirely black. Their white stripes are trimmed in black and the tail is always lighter than the body, usually either white or yellowish. Some individuals may have a white band at the base of the tail. Smaller juveniles may also have white tips on the dorsal and caudal fins. The middle white stripe in mature Clarkii Clownfish typically stops before spreading into the dorsal fin. Clark's Clowns most closely resemble and have been known to cross-breed with Sebae Clownfish ( A. sebae ). Clownfish are some of the hardiest and most traditional fish for marine aquariums. They generally come from two genuses - most are in the genus Amphiprion with one species in the genus Premnas - and all are found in the Pomacentridae family along with damsels and chromises. They are some of the mostly widely tankraised fish, leading to more man-made variations becoming available like Misbars and Albinos as species are selectively bred and crossed. It is usually best to keep one clownfish per tank, though a pair can sometimes be kept if one is significantly smaller than the other or are about the same size when added as juveniles. One fish will develop into a female and become larger in size while the other (or others, in large tanks) will remain male. As the fish mature, they may also become aggressive towards new arrivals (or hands in the tank), so be prepared for aggression to follow even if the new fish is large in size. Mixing tankraised and wild-caught individuals is generally not recommended since their immunity and exposure to diseases and parasites may be different. Clownfish are generally not fussy eaters, and will accept a range of frozen and prepared foods like flakes, pellets, and frozen formulas. They can benefit from some plant matter in their diet, although they are not considered herbivores and do need some meaty foods. Some clownfish can be sensitive to toxins, especially heavy metal based medications like copper. Though the interaction between anemones and clownfish is amusing to watch, it is not necessary to the survival of either animal. Some clownfish will only host in specific anemones and vice versa. A host anemone should generally have a diameter of at least twice the length of the clownfish when introduced together for the best health of both the clownfish and the anemone. Tankraised fish can also be less likely to use a host anemone than wild-caught fish. Visit That Fish Blog for more information from our marine biologists on clownfish social structure and gender , anemone selection and preferences and other clownfish-related topics.

Zebrasoma flavescens "Yellow Tang" - Small/Medium

Wed, 25 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The Yellow Tang ( Zebrasoma flavescens ) is a highly recognizeable and very popular aquarium fish. These tangs are solid yellow in their body and fins. The tail spine at the base of the tail is white. They may become very territorial and should not be kept with other Zebrasoma tangs, with fish with a similar appearance, or in a small aquarium. Tangs and Surgeonfish are some of the most popular and common fish found in the aquarium trade. This group includes several genuses that can be associated with the various common name groups although "Surgeonfish" and "Tang" are often used interchangeably: Acanthurus ("Surgeonfish"), Naso ("Unicorn Tangs"), Ctenochaetus ("Bristletooth Tangs") and Zebrasoma ("Tangs"). They are found in almost every tropical oceans and in almost every color and pattern. The common names ???? 1/2surgeonfish???? 1/2 or "doctorfish" comes from the tiny scalpel-like spine at the base of the fish's tail. They use this spine as defense and will extend the spine if threatened. You may witness the tang shimmying up against another tang or fish; this is a sign of aggression as they may be using this spine to ward off the other fish. Always use caution when handling or netting a tang since this spine can become caught or cause injuries. Tangs and Surgeonfish are omnivores but a large part of the diet of most species consists of algae and plant matter. Tangs should also be given some meaty food to round out their diet. However, tangs that are fed primarily meaty foods over a long period of time are more likely to suffer from head and lateral line erosion (HLLE). HLLE disease in the short run is not fatal, but over time if the disease continues to progress the fish will stop eating and become lethargic and susceptible to other infections which may eventually contribute to its demise. The best treatment is prevention; maintain excellent water quality and feed a rich and varied diet. Supplementing with a multivitamin (A, D, E, B complex, and Iodine) may also help prevent further erosion. Tangs are generally community fish and get along with most other tankmates. Most do not bother corals and can actually help keep nuisance algae trimmed and under control, especially "Bristletooth Tangs" from the Ctenochaetus genus. Tangs may get territorial and aggressive towards similar tangs, so always use caution when keeping these fish together or with other fish that have a similar body shape or coloration. Visit That Fish Blog for more information on Tangs and Surgeonfish and other aquarium-related topics from our marine biologists and aquatic staff.

Platydoras costatus "Striped Raphael Catfish"

Wed, 25 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The Striped Raphael Catfish is an attractive catfish, having a black body and horizontal, creamy stripes. A stripe passes from the middle of the tail forward on each side of the body to the center of the forehead where they meet. Another stripe passes from the tip of each pectoral fin forward to join at the tip of the snout, and a fifth stripe lines the base of the dorsal fin. The Striped Raphael is also called a "talking catfish" because of its ablity to make buzzing and clicking sounds by rubbing its spines together. As its name suggests, this catfish is covered with spots. The spots are white and the rest of the body is black. Its body is covered with thick plates that act as armor. This catfish is nocturnal, and needs a dark hiding place in which to take refuge during the day. It is a scavenger and will eat most foods that it finds at the bottom of the tank. It is a peaceful fish and can be kept with most community species. It is also tolerant of its own kind and can be kept in small groups or singly. Due to its protective "armor", the Striped Raphael Catfish can also be kept with small to medium sized more aggressive fish including many types of cichlids. Despite its passive nature, the spotted raphael may eat very tiny fish, such as young fry.

Darford Mega P'Nut Bones

Wed, 25 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Mega Biscuits satisfy your big dog with the great taste of real peanut butter. Mega Biscuits are the half pound, half foot monster treats made to satisfy adult, large breed dogs (over 60 lbs.). Crunchy, wholesome treats also help your dog break down tartar as your dog chews.

Darford Mega Gobbler (Turkey) Bones

Wed, 25 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Mega Biscuits satisfy your big dog with the great taste of real turkey. Mega Biscuits are the half pound, half foot monster treats made to satisfy adult, large breed dogs (over 60 lbs.). Crunchy, wholesome treats also help your dog break down tartar as your dog chews.

Chaetodon falcula "Double Saddle Butterfly" - Medium

Wed, 25 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The Double Saddle Butterfly ( Chaetodon falcula ) has a long snout, a black band through its eyes, and two black triangle-shaped markings in the dorsal area. The dorsal area, tail, and anal fin are bright yellow, and the body is white with vertical black stripes. There is also a black bar at the base of the tail. This fish is often confused with Chaetodon ulietensis , usually known as the False Double Saddle Butterfly. The area between the black saddles is yellow on C. falcula and white on C. ulietensis . The saddles themselves are usually crisper on C. falcula and blurrier on C. ulietensis . This butterfly is known to eat anemones as well as corals and some other inverts. Butterflyfish consist of a large number of fish found in the aquarium trade from the Chaetodon , Chelmon , Forcipiger , and Heniochus genuses, among others from the family Chaetodontidae . The family ranges in length from 3 inches up to close to 12 inches in length. Butterflies are usually roughly oval in body shape but longer fins make some appear elliptical or diamond-shaped. They resemble and are sometimes confused with angelfish (family Pomacentridae ) but angelfish have a cheekspine that is not found in butterflies. Butterflies are generally community fish in nature. Though some more pugnatious species may terrorize smaller or more docile fish, most can be kept with a wide range of community tankmates. Most butterfly species are not "reef safe" and will eat corals and polyps. In fact, some more delicate butterflies require corals as part of their natural diet. Butterflies may also harm smaller crustaceans (crabs and shrimp) and may pick at inverts like clams, feather dusters, anemones and similar tankmates. Use caution when introducing a butterfly into a tank with inverts; though some are considered "reef safe" by some aquarists, any butterfly may pose a risk to corals and inverts. The diet of butterflies can vary, as mentioned, based on what they normally eat in the wild. Some very picky species only pick at coral flesh and can be difficult to wean onto an aquarium-based diet. A very varied diet of algaes and meaty items like brine shrimp, mysis shrimp, scallops, clam, corals, sponges and other items is best. Vitamin supplements can also help get the butterflies all the nutrition they require. While some butterflies are very hardy and suitable for aquarists of all levels, more sensitive species should be attempted by experienced aquarists only. This is a Restricted item and is not covered by our Arrive Alive 5-Day Guarantee. Please visit the Guarantee Policy and Restricted Species webpages for more information.

Pygoplites diacanthus "Regal Angel" - Small

Tue, 24 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Pseudanthias squamipinnis "Lyretail Anthias" - Large Male

Tue, 24 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The Lyretail Anthias ( Pseudanthias squamipinnis ) is also known as the Warpaint Anthias for its vivid markings, especially in the males. The exact coloration can vary, depending on the region the fish was collected in, but follows the same general pattern. The male has an orange-red body with yellow scales on the sides, elongated rays in the dorsal fin, a forked tail, and long pelvic fins. Males are generally darker than females and have large red spots on the pectoral fins. The female has a light orange body with elongated rays in the dorsal fin, a forked tail, and long pelvic fins. A purple stripe extends across the cheek to the pectoral fins of both males and females. These anthias are more aggressive and territorial than other anthias species and should be kept alone or in large groups (one male to six or more females). Anthias are closely related to the often large and aggressive predators known collectively as Groupers but have much more peaceful temperaments. Within the Anthinnae subfamily, the temperament can still range from very passive and docile to downright bold but most are still peaceful compared to many of the other fish reputed to be "aggressive" and "territorial". Most anthias are shades of pink, red, orange and yellow; colors that help them blend in in the deeper waters many are found in. Size can also range between species but most anthias are under around 7-8 inches in length and the majority available in the aquarium trade are around 3-5 inches in length. Anthias are planktivores and feed primarily on zooplankton, tiny animals found in the water column. They benefit from several small feedings throughout the day rather than one large feeding. A healthy microinvertebrate population in the aquarium with a constant supply of food items like copepods and amphipods is beneficial but most anthias can be weaned onto frozen and prepared zooplanktons, Cyclop-eeze, mysis shrimp, baby brine shrimp and similar items. These fish are best kept in small harems of one male to several juveniles or females. If the aquarium cannot handle a group of 5 or more fish, most anthias can be kept alone or occasionally in a male-female pair. Suitable tankmates for anthias would be peaceful fish that will not harass these docile fish or outcompete them for food. Stressed anthias have been known to jump from an aquarium. Anthias are Reef Safe and are not normally known to bother corals or invertebrates. More information about the social structure and gender among anthias groups can be found on That Fish Blog from our staff marine biologists. This is a Restricted item and is not covered by our Arrive Alive 5-Day Guarantee. Please visit the Guarantee Policy and Restricted Species webpages for more information.

Pomacanthus paru "French Angel" - Medium Juvenile

Tue, 24 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Pomacanthus paru "French Angel" - Medium Juvenile Adult French Angels ( Pomacanthus paru ) are greenish-grey with gold edged scales, a white mouth, and a yellow ring around each eye. Juvenile French Angels are black with bright gold vertical bars, and blue on the ventral and anal fins and often act as part-time cleaners that pick off parasites from larger fish. Juveniles are often confused with the very similar Gray Angel ( P. arcuatus ). Though most French Angels in the aquarium trade are collected from the western Atlantic and Carribean, they are also found in the coastal eastern Atlantic as well. The larger angelfish available in the aquarium trade include those from the genera Apolemichthys , Chaetodontoplus , Holacanthus , Pomacanthus , and Pygoplites . Of these, Apolemichthys and Chaetodontoplus are generally the smallest and are sometimes considered "pygmy angels" compared to the much larger Holacanthus and Pomacanthus angels. The Regal Angelfish, Pygoplites diacanthus is the only fish in the Pygoplites genus. Juveniles and adults among these angels usually have very different appearances and, in the wild, usually live in harems with dominant males controlling a group of females.The color change in angels can be triggered by size, age or a change in social structure. Angels should not be kept with other large angels in the home aquarium to avoid territorial conflicts. Occasionally, two angels may tolerate one another in a very large aquarium if they have very different coloration and appearance, but is not typically recommended. Suitable tankmates for most large marine angels would be larger community fish like tangs, triggers, groupers, some damsels, butterflies and similar fish. More shy and passive angels can be kept with smaller, more docile tankmates. Be sure to take the adult size of the angelfish into consideration when choosing an angel for an aquarium as many can grow very large (albeit slowly) and need tankmates and an environment that can accommodate them. All angels have cheekspines at the edge of their gill cover and in the dorsal fin. Use caution when handling and avoid using a net that they may become stuck or tangled in. The diet of large angels generally consists of meaty foods, algaes, and marine sponge. Many frozen angel formulas and flakes may have extra sponge meal, and live sponges can be purchased to supplement their diet. These angels are not reef safe and have been known to nip at or eat some corals, sponges, and clam mantles. Some leather corals and anemones may be safe with larger angelfish but is not generally recommended. Visit That Fish Blog for an Overview on Natural History and Care of Marine Angelfishes as well as a Species Profile on the Queen Angelfish and more from our marine biologists.

Omega-3 Brine Shrimp - Cubes - 7 oz. - Frozen

Tue, 24 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

These Brine Shrimp were fed a special Omega-3 formula food and are now more nutritious than ever before. These essential fatty acids promote the healthy growth and maturation of your fish, while increasing disease resistance. All freshwater and saltwater fish love Brine Shrimp, and you'll love this specially enriched formula even more for it's excellent health benefits.

Naso elegans "Blonde Naso Tang" - Medium/Large

Tue, 24 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The Blonde Naso Tang ( Naso elegans ) was once considered a color variant of the more common Naso Tang ( N. lituratus ). The entire dorsal fin of the Blonde Naso is yellow or yellow-orange. The anal fin is orange with blue-black trim and the base of the tail is orange. The tail fin itself has a yellow vertical bar on the rear edge. The body is grey-brown and often lighter on the dorsal side. The fish also has red or orange lips and a yellow-edged black mask that covers the snout and eyes. Adult males develop long "streamers" from the top and bottom tips of the tail. Tangs and Surgeonfish are some of the most popular and common fish found in the aquarium trade. This group includes several genuses that can be associated with the various common name groups although "Surgeonfish" and "Tang" are often used interchangeably: Acanthurus ("Surgeonfish"), Naso ("Unicorn Tangs"), Ctenochaetus ("Bristletooth Tangs") and Zebrasoma ("Tangs"). They are found in almost every tropical oceans and in almost every color and pattern. The common names ???? 1/2surgeonfish???? 1/2 or "doctorfish" comes from the tiny scalpel-like spine at the base of the fish's tail. They use this spine as defense and will extend the spine if threatened. You may witness the tang shimmying up against another tang or fish; this is a sign of aggression as they may be using this spine to ward off the other fish. Always use caution when handling or netting a tang since this spine can become caught or cause injuries. Tangs and Surgeonfish are omnivores but a large part of the diet of most species consists of algae and plant matter. Tangs should also be given some meaty food to round out their diet. However, tangs that are fed primarily meaty foods over a long period of time are more likely to suffer from head and lateral line erosion (HLLE). HLLE disease in the short run is not fatal, but over time if the disease continues to progress the fish will stop eating and become lethargic and susceptible to other infections which may eventually contribute to its demise. The best treatment is prevention; maintain excellent water quality and feed a rich and varied diet. Supplementing with a multivitamin (A, D, E, B complex, and Iodine) may also help prevent further erosion. Tangs are generally community fish and get along with most other tankmates. Most do not bother corals and can actually help keep nuisance algae trimmed and under control, especially "Bristletooth Tangs" from the Ctenochaetus genus. Tangs may get territorial and aggressive towards similar tangs, so always use caution when keeping these fish together or with other fish that have a similar body shape or coloration. Visit That Fish Blog for more information on Tangs and Surgeonfish and other aquarium-related topics from our marine biologists and aquatic staff.

Eucidaris tribuloides "Sputnik Pencil Urchin"

Tue, 24 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The Sputnik Pencil Urchin or "Mine Urchin" ( Eucidaris tribuloides ) has thick, blunt spines that are sparsely arranged over its rigid body and often resemble the Sputnik satellite. Urchins are grazers that will roam about the tank searching for food and algae on the substrate and rockwork. Most will not actively eat corals, but some delicate corals may be damaged if the urchin crawls on top of them or knocks them over. Urchins have also been known to eat coralline algae desireable to some aquarists. Urchins may also occassionally feed on coralline algae that some aquarists may be trying to promote. If algae levels in the aquarium are low, urchins can be fed by attaching algae sheets to a piece of rock with a clip or rubber band. Some urchins are venomous, but most species are harmless to aquarists. The most common injuries from urchins happens when the aquarists bumps against an urchin and gets poked by its spines. Spines can become broken off in the skin, especially with thinner-spined urchins, so always take care around your urchin to avoid injuring it or yourself.

Centropyge loricula "Flame Pygmy Angel" - Medium

Tue, 24 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The Flame Pygmy Angelfish ( Centropyge loricula ) has a bright red-orange body that is crossed by black vertical bars. The back edges of the dorsal and anal fins are blue and black striped. The smaller angelfish and "pygmy angelfish" available in the aquarium trade include those from the genera Apolemichthys , Centropyge , Chaetodontoplus , Genicanthus , and a few others. Of these, Apolemichthys and Chaetodontoplus are generally the largest. Centropyge is the largest group and some fish have been separated into new species and genera in recent years. Suitable tankmates for most of these angels would be community fish like tangs, clownfish, damsels, gobies, blennies, butterflies and similar fish. More shy and passive angels can be kept with smaller, more docile tankmates. Angels should not be kept with other angels in the home aquarium to avoid territorial conflicts. Occasionally, two angels may tolerate one another in a very large aquarium if they have very different coloration and appearance, but is not typical. All angels have cheekspines at the edge of their gill cover and in the dorsal fin; use caution when handling and avoid using a net that they may become stuck or tangled in. The diet of angels generally consists of meaty foods and algaes. They can be fed a variety of frozen items like formulas, mysis shrimp, brine shrimp, scallops and others, as well as pellets, flakes, algae sheets and other foods. Many can be kept successfully in a reef, but use caution with any angels in a reef system, especially with polyps and SPS corals; some have been known to nip at the occasionally polyp, coral or clam mantle but not to the extent of the larger angel species. Visit That Fish Blog for an Overview on Natural History and Care of Marine Angelfishes as well as a Species Profile on the Pygmy Angelfish and more from our marine biologists and aquatic staff. This is a Restricted item and is not covered by our Arrive Alive 5-Day Guarantee. Please visit the Guarantee Policy and Restricted Species webpages for more information.

Centropyge fisheri "Fisher's Pygmy Angel" - Medium

Tue, 24 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The Fisher's Pygmy Angel ( Centropyge fisheri ) is found only in the Hawaiian Islands and around the nearby Johnson Atoll. It has brown-orange body coloration with a small black dot located behind the pectoral fins. Their pelvic fins are blue-edged and they have a light yellow or transparent tail. The smaller angelfish and "pygmy angelfish" available in the aquarium trade include those from the genera Apolemichthys , Centropyge , Chaetodontoplus , Genicanthus , and a few others. Of these, Apolemichthys and Chaetodontoplus are generally the largest. Centropyge is the largest group and some fish have been separated into new species and genera in recent years. Suitable tankmates for most of these angels would be community fish like tangs, clownfish, damsels, gobies, blennies, butterflies and similar fish. More shy and passive angels can be kept with smaller, more docile tankmates. Angels should not be kept with other angels in the home aquarium to avoid territorial conflicts. Occasionally, two angels may tolerate one another in a very large aquarium if they have very different coloration and appearance, but is not typical. All angels have cheekspines at the edge of their gill cover and in the dorsal fin; use caution when handling and avoid using a net that they may become stuck or tangled in. The diet of angels generally consists of meaty foods and algaes. They can be fed a variety of frozen items like formulas, mysis shrimp, brine shrimp, scallops and others, as well as pellets, flakes, algae sheets and other foods. Many can be kept successfully in a reef, but use caution with any angels in a reef system, especially with polyps and SPS corals; some have been known to nip at the occasionally polyp, coral or clam mantle but not to the extent of the larger angel species. Visit That Fish Blog for an Overview on Natural History and Care of Marine Angelfishes as well as a Species Profile on the Pygmy Angelfish and more from our marine biologists and aquatic staff.

Acanthurus olivaceus "Orange Shoulder Tang" - Small Adult

Tue, 24 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

As a juvenile, the Orange Shoulder Tang ( Acanthurus olivaceus ) is yellow-green and a faint orange marking behind the gill. As the fish matures, its yellow coloration fades to gray-olive, darker in the back and lgihter in the front. A larger, more vibrant orange marking with blue edges becomes visible behind the eye running down the side of the fish. Tangs and Surgeonfish are some of the most popular and common fish found in the aquarium trade. This group includes several genuses that can be associated with the various common name groups although "Surgeonfish" and "Tang" are often used interchangeably: Acanthurus ("Surgeonfish"), Naso ("Unicorn Tangs"), Ctenochaetus ("Bristletooth Tangs") and Zebrasoma ("Tangs"). They are found in almost every tropical oceans and in almost every color and pattern. The common names ???? 1/2surgeonfish???? 1/2 or "doctorfish" comes from the tiny scalpel-like spine at the base of the fish's tail. They use this spine as defense and will extend the spine if threatened. You may witness the tang shimmying up against another tang or fish; this is a sign of aggression as they may be using this spine to ward off the other fish. Always use caution when handling or netting a tang since this spine can become caught or cause injuries. Tangs and Surgeonfish are omnivores but a large part of the diet of most species consists of algae and plant matter. Tangs should also be given some meaty food to round out their diet. However, tangs that are fed primarily meaty foods over a long period of time are more likely to suffer from head and lateral line erosion (HLLE). HLLE disease in the short run is not fatal, but over time if the disease continues to progress the fish will stop eating and become lethargic and susceptible to other infections which may eventually contribute to its demise. The best treatment is prevention; maintain excellent water quality and feed a rich and varied diet. Supplementing with a multivitamin (A, D, E, B complex, and Iodine) may also help prevent further erosion. Tangs are generally community fish and get along with most other tankmates. Most do not bother corals and can actually help keep nuisance algae trimmed and under control, especially "Bristletooth Tangs" from the Ctenochaetus genus. Tangs may get territorial and aggressive towards similar tangs, so always use caution when keeping these fish together or with other fish that have a similar body shape or coloration. Visit That Fish Blog for more information on Tangs and Surgeonfish and other aquarium-related topics from our marine biologists and aquatic staff.

Pentaceraster sp. "General Starfish"

Fri, 20 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The General Star ( Pentaceraster sp. ) has a very traditional starfish shape. They are thick-bodied starfish that usually have contrasting-colored bumps on their surface. Colors of these starfish can vary. They are not Reef Safe. Starfish in general are very sensitive to changes in water quality and conditions. If temperature, salinity or other water parameters change quickly, starfish cannot regulate the change and are often damaged or killed. Be sure to acclimate carefully and while doing water changes, make sure the "new" water is as close as possible to the "old" water in its parameters. Most starfish are scavengers. Some may prey on snails and invertebrates while others eat detritus, leftover food, and tiny organisms in and on the substrate and rockwork. Fromia and Linckia starfish are among the group of stars that are considered safe for corals and invertebrates while thicker-bodied stars like Chocolate Chip and Bahama stars will prey on snails, corals and other stationary inverts. This is a Restricted item and is not covered by our Arrive Alive 5-Day Guarantee. Please visit the Guarantee Policy and Restricted Species webpages for more information.

Oxycirrhites typus "Longnose Hawkfish" - Large

Fri, 20 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Oxycirrhites typus "Longnose Hawkfish" - Large The Longnose Hawkfish ( Oxycirrhites typus ) has an elongated body with a long snout to probe crevices for food. The body is white to light pink in color and there is a pattern of red lines that form repeating squares. They need appropriately small food items for their thin snout. Hawkfish are generally hardy fish with tons of "personality". They do not have swim bladders like most other fish and can usually be found perching on the substrate or rockwork. When a potential meal or invaders to their territorial swims (or crawls) by, the hawkfish will swoop in like their avian namesakes. They are always alert and will "hop" from perch to perch to investigate their surroundings. These fish can be kept with most other tankmates in a community or reef aquarium. Aside from any irritation that their perching may cause, they will not bother or damage corals and stationary invertebrates. They will, however, prey on smaller tankmates and crustaceans like shrimp. Hawkfish are not picky eaters and will almost always act hungry. They can be fed a variety of size-appropriate meaty foods (various types of shrimp, scallop, krill, fish flesh, plankton, squid, etc.) and most will also accept prepared foods like flakes and pellets. Larger hawkfish can be given live ghost shrimp as an occasional treat.

Melichthys vidua "Pink Tail Trigger" - Medium

Fri, 20 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Pink Tail Trigger ( Melichthys vidua ) have a dark olive-brown body with a pink tail. The dorsal and anal fins are white with black edges, while the pectoral fins are yellow. These triggers are fairly peaceful and can be kept in some community and reef aquariums, although adults may prey on some crustaceans or very small fish. Triggerfish are easily recognized by their distinct body shape and a thick dorsal spike that can be raised and lowered at will. When these fish feels threatened, is ready for sleep at night, or wants to secure itself against strong wave action, it can use the spine to wedge itself into a hole or crevice. Once a trigger has secured itself, it is next to impossible to remove it from its hiding place. These fish may lay on the bottom of the tank or hide in a corner if they can't find an adequate place to feel secure, so they appreciate rock or other ornaments where that can retreat. Use caution when netting these fish as the spines and rough scales can become tangled in the mesh. Triggerfish are voracious carnivores and will need to be fed a varied diet of meaty foods including freeze-dried or frozen clam, krill, shrimp, and other similar items. They generally cannot be housed with inverts such as crabs, clams, urchins or crabs as these will be seen as a quick snack. Tank mates should be chosen carefully, and they should be large enough and tough enough to hold their own against a feisty trigger. Be aware that these are very active fish, spending most of their time in the open searching for food or other fish to chase. Some can be downright mean, killing tank mates or biting electrical cords, fingers, or anything else that breaks the water's surface. Be aware of the temperament of any trigger species you may want to house in a tank before they are introduced. Even small triggers can cause big issues as they mature or become established. Triggers from the genera Pseudobalistes , Rhinecanthus , Balistes and Balistoides are generally the most aggressive species and should not be kept with corals, inverts or small fish. Odonus , Melichthys , and Xanthichthys genera are generally less aggressive or destructive and some may even be kept successfully in community or reef aquariums but be aware that they still may prey on inverts (especially crustaceans) or on smaller tankmates.

Amphiprion melanopus "Cinnamon Clownfish" - Medium

Fri, 20 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Cinnamon Clownfish ( Amphiprion melanopus ) are very similar to Tomato Clownfish ( A. frenatus ). Both are orange-red and tends to be darker and more red than other clowns. They have one prominent white bar directly behind the head (although some regions may have a second, smaller white bar towards the middle of the body). Both species darken in overall color with age. Tomato Clownfish have a uniform body and fin color while Cinnamon Clowns have black ventral fins (the species name " Melanopus " literally means "black-footed"). Tomato Clowns grow slightly larger; both species are fairly aggressively territorial. Clownfish are some of the hardiest and most traditional fish for marine aquariums. They generally come from two genuses - most are in the genus Amphiprion with one species in the genus Premnas - and all are found in the Pomacentridae family along with damsels and chromises. They are some of the mostly widely tankraised fish, leading to more man-made variations becoming available like Misbars and Albinos as species are selectively bred and crossed. It is usually best to keep one clownfish per tank, though a pair can sometimes be kept if one is significantly smaller than the other or are about the same size when added as juveniles. One fish will develop into a female and become larger in size while the other (or others, in large tanks) will remain male. As the fish mature, they may also become aggressive towards new arrivals (or hands in the tank), so be prepared for aggression to follow even if the new fish is large in size. Mixing tankraised and wild-caught individuals is generally not recommended since their immunity and exposure to diseases and parasites may be different. Clownfish are generally not fussy eaters, and will accept a range of frozen and prepared foods like flakes, pellets, and frozen formulas. They can benefit from some plant matter in their diet, although they are not considered herbivores and do need some meaty foods. Some clownfish can be sensitive to toxins, especially heavy metal based medications like copper. Though the interaction between anemones and clownfish is amusing to watch, it is not necessary to the survival of either animal. Some clownfish will only host in specific anemones and vice versa. A host anemone should generally have a diameter of at least twice the length of the clownfish when introduced together for the best health of both the clownfish and the anemone. Tankraised fish can also be less likely to use a host anemone than wild-caught fish. Visit That Fish Blog for more information from our marine biologists on clownfish social structure and gender , anemone selection and preferences and other clownfish-related topics.

Amphiprion frenatus "Tomato Clownfish" - Medium

Fri, 20 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Amphiprion frenatus "Tomato Clownfish" - Medium Tomato Clownfish ( Amphiprion frenatus ) are very similar to Cinnamon Clownfish ( A. melanopus ). Both are orange-red and tends to be darker and more red than other clowns. They have one prominent white bar directly behind the head (although some regions may have a second, smaller white bar towards the middle of the body). Both species darken in overall color with age. Tomato Clownfish have a uniform body and fin color while Cinnamon Clowns have black ventral fins (the species name " Melanopus " literally means "black-footed"). Tomato Clowns grow slightly larger; both species are fairly aggressively territorial. Clownfish are some of the hardiest and most traditional fish for marine aquariums. They generally come from two genuses - most are in the genus Amphiprion with one species in the genus Premnas - and all are found in the Pomacentridae family along with damsels and chromises. They are some of the mostly widely tankraised fish, leading to more man-made variations becoming available like Misbars and Albinos as species are selectively bred and crossed. It is usually best to keep one clownfish per tank, though a pair can sometimes be kept if one is significantly smaller than the other or are about the same size when added as juveniles. One fish will develop into a female and become larger in size while the other (or others, in large tanks) will remain male. As the fish mature, they may also become aggressive towards new arrivals (or hands in the tank), so be prepared for aggression to follow even if the new fish is large in size. Mixing tankraised and wild-caught individuals is generally not recommended since their immunity and exposure to diseases and parasites may be different. Clownfish are generally not fussy eaters, and will accept a range of frozen and prepared foods like flakes, pellets, and frozen formulas. They can benefit from some plant matter in their diet, although they are not considered herbivores and do need some meaty foods. Some clownfish can be sensitive to toxins, especially heavy metal based medications like copper. Though the interaction between anemones and clownfish is amusing to watch, it is not necessary to the survival of either animal. Some clownfish will only host in specific anemones and vice versa. A host anemone should generally have a diameter of at least twice the length of the clownfish when introduced together for the best health of both the clownfish and the anemone. Tankraised fish can also be less likely to use a host anemone than wild-caught fish. Visit That Fish Blog for more information from our marine biologists on clownfish social structure and gender , anemone selection and preferences and other clownfish-related topics.

Zoanthus sp. "Sky Blue Zoanthid Polyp Rock"

Thu, 19 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Zoanthus sp. "Sky Blue Zoanthid Polyp Rock" Zoanthid polyps are one of the collector's items of the reef trade. Many different color varieties and combinations exist and are sought after within the trade. They are easy to frag and can spread to cover a surface rapidly under the proper conditions. Zoanthid polyps' requirements can vary depending on the variety. More brightly colored colonies can require higher light than more subdued polyps. All are also filter feeders and can be target-fed with meaty foods like zooplankton and baby brine shrimp. They should have moderate flow to carry food to and waste away from the polyps. Zoanthid polyps secrete a toxin known as "palytoxin". This substance is known as one of the most powerful and dangerous toxins in nature, but a reaction beyond a mild skin rash is very rare. Avoid coming into contact with Zoanthid polyps for prolonged periods or with any open cuts or wounds; the use of gloves when handling your polyps is recommended.

Xenia sp. "Pulsing Xenia" - Medium

Thu, 19 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Pulsing Xenias are one of the most spectacular corals for the aquarium due to their rhythmic pulsing of their polyps. Large colonies can be truly magnificent. These corals are fast growing, and once established are quite hardy. Unfortunately these corals do not ship well, so getting a healthy specimen can be very difficult. Some Xenia colonies are known to grow to nuisance levels at times then die back for no apparent reason and different aquarists have different experiences and opinions at what may cause Xenia to grow or decline rapidly. These corals like medium to strong lighting, and medium to strong water movement. The colonies can benefit from filter-feeder supplements and iodine supplements and generally do not tolerate high nitrate levels. With their rapid growth, Xenias can easily dominate the upper portions of your reef under ideal conditions. Do not place close to other corals that may become overgrown. This is a Restricted item and is not covered by our Arrive Alive 5-Day Guarantee. Please visit the Guarantee Policy and Restricted Species webpages for more information.

Umbellulifera sp. "Orange Flower Tree Coral"

Thu, 19 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Umbellulifera sp. "Orange Flower Tree Coral" The Orange Flower Tree Coral ( Umbellulifera sp. ) is a rare coral that resembles some "Carnation Corals" more commonly found. Not much is known about its care and requirements as it rarely enters the trade but it is generally regarded as a non-photosynthetic coral that needs a planktonic food sources of items like baby brine shrimp, daphnia, Cyclopeeze, etc., and moderate to strong indirect flow. They should not be kept in brightly lit aquariums or should be placed under a cave or overhang to block strong lighting.

Nimbochromis fuscotaeniatus "Fusco" - Juvenile

Thu, 19 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Juvenile and female Fuscos have a beautiful brown-gold camouflage pattern common to almost all Nimbochromis. Dominant males develop stunning metallic blue color with intricate designs of red throughout the fins and sometimes along the flanks. The fish pictured above is the adult male of the species. You will receive the juvenile form under this item number which is often too small to be sexed as a male or female. These fish are carnivores, so be wary of keeping them with smaller fish. They will actively ambush fish in the wild, and it is debated that they are more closely related to Tyrannochromis. Feed them a variety of foods like pellets and meaty frozen items. Keep fuscos with other large cichlids of similar aggression. Typical Malawian decor should be fine plenty of rocks and caves for exploring. Their large adult size will require plenty of space for staking territory, probably not less than 100 gallons.

Forcipiger flavissimus "Yellow Longnose Butterfly" - Large

Thu, 19 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Forcipiger flavissimus "Yellow Longnose Butterfly" - Large The Yellow Longnose Butterfly ( Forcipiger flavissimus ) is bright yellow with a black triangle on the upper part of the head. The lower jaw is white, the caudal fin is clear, and there is a false eye spot on the anal fin. They are also considered by some to be "Reef Safe" as they may not usually bother corals but as with any butterflies, this can be risky. They are known to feed on a wide range of small inverts and crustaceans, including the tube feet of echinoderms like urchins and starfish. Another species is sometime also available as the Yellow Longnose Butterfly, F. longirostris . This species has identical coloration but a noticeably longer snout that can approach the fish's entire body length in relative length. The snout on F. flavissimus is usually about half the length of the body. F. longirostris also has small black spots on its throat/chin area. Butterflyfish consist of a large number of fish found in the aquarium trade from the Chaetodon , Chelmon , Forcipiger , and Heniochus genuses, among others from the family Chaetodontidae . The family ranges in length from 3 inches up to close to 12 inches in length. Butterflies are usually roughly oval in body shape but longer fins make some appear elliptical or diamond-shaped. They resemble and are sometimes confused with angelfish (family Pomacentridae ) but angelfish have a cheekspine that is not found in butterflies. Butterflies are generally community fish in nature. Though some more pugnatious species may terrorize smaller or more docile fish, most can be kept with a wide range of community tankmates. Most butterfly species are not "reef safe" and will eat corals and polyps. In fact, some more delicate butterflies require corals as part of their natural diet. Butterflies may also harm smaller crustaceans (crabs and shrimp) and may pick at inverts like clams, feather dusters, anemones and similar tankmates. Use caution when introducing a butterfly into a tank with inverts; though some are considered "reef safe" by some aquarists, any butterfly may pose a risk to corals and inverts. The diet of butterflies can vary, as mentioned, based on what they normally eat in the wild. Some very picky species only pick at coral flesh and can be difficult to wean onto an aquarium-based diet. A very varied diet of algaes and meaty items like brine shrimp, mysis shrimp, scallops, clam, corals, sponges and other items is best. Vitamin supplements can also help get the butterflies all the nutrition they require. While some butterflies are very hardy and suitable for aquarists of all levels, more sensitive species should be attempted by experienced aquarists only. This is a Restricted item and is not covered by our Arrive Alive 5-Day Guarantee. Please visit the Guarantee Policy and Restricted Species webpages for more information.

Dendrophyllia sp. "Branching Turret Coral" - Small

Thu, 19 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Dendrophyllia sp. "Branching Turret Coral" - Small The Branching Turret Coral ( Dendrophyllia sp. ) is almost identical to the more common Sun Polyps or Sun Corals ( Tubastrea sp. ) but the polyp size is typically much larger and Branching Turret Corals are more likely to be open during the day. Each polyp opens from the individual cup-like structures and can be yellow, orange, red, or even black in rare colonies. When fully extended, they resembled spiky pom-poms or "suns". These corals lack zooxanthellae, thus they require frequent feeding for nutrition. They open at night, and must be fed while their tentacles are expanded. With time, some may become acclimated to feeding during the day. Crushed brine shrimp, mysis shrimp or Cyclopeeze are possible food types that can be used and should be target-fed in lowered flow to give the corals a chance to feed. Place these corals out of direct light, low in the tank or under a ledge. Too much lighting can allow nuisance algae to grow on the coral and prevent it from feeding. Water flow should generally be moderate to high, except while feeding. A net or cup can be placed over the coral to help contact the food if the flow cannot be changed during target-feeding.

Sewellia lineolata "Reticulated Hillstream Sucker"

Tue, 17 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The Retilculated Hillstream Sucker is an interesting fish. It has a flattened body with wide, modified pectoral and ventral fins that it can use to attach to rocks, glass and other surfaces like a suction cup. The body is dark brown and is covered with golden or tan markings forming spots and rings when viewed from above. The Reticulated Hillstream Sucker is often mistaken for a type of pleco, but it is actually a species of loach. It prefers well-oxygenated water and stronger currents. For this reason it is important to provide an efficient filtration system as well as pump to create a current if necessary. Reticulated Hillstream Suckers are also sensitive to poor water quality, so be sure to maintain regular water changes. These fish are peaceful and can be kept with most community species. Do not keep this fish with nippy or aggressive tankmates as they are not very good at defending themselves and will be easily injured. They can be kept in groups or alone. Hillstream loaches will sometimes defend a small territory against others of their own kind, but the competition is normally confined to "butting" heads. Hillstream loaches feed on algae, small invertebrates and detritus. In the aquarium they will also eat sinking pellets and leftover food they find. Provide some hiding places such as small caves or driftwood.

Centropyge loricula "Flame Pygmy Angel" - Small

Tue, 17 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Botia striata "Zebra Loach"

Tue, 17 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The Zebra or Striped Loach, Botia striata , is a peaceful and smaller member of the loach family. It is often found in groups and is considered a good snail eater (perfect for snail problems in smaller tanks). Feed a meaty diet of sinking foods like bloodworms, sinking pellets and saturated flakes, and occassionally algae or vegetable matter. These loaches dig in the substrate and should have fine sand so their barbels (the whiskers on their face) are not damaged. They need lots of rocks, plants or driftwood for hiding places. Plants, especially tall plants, will help to break up lighting and provide the subdued lighting ideal for these loaches. Like many other loaches, these fish are scaleless, and so are more sensitive to medications and other chemicals in the water. They are also sensitive to cooler water temperatures. Maintaining the water within the specified temperature range will help to avoid stress and other complications.

Botia kubotai "Angelicus Loach" - Small

Tue, 17 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The Angelicus Loach, known as both Botia angelicus and Botia kubotai , has a beautiful striped pattern in a deep brown over a silvery-white body. This is one of the most popular aquarium loaches and one of the most compatible for most community aquariums. These loaches are perfect for community aquariums and will do well with fish like tetras, danios, rasboras and rainbows. They need lots of rocks, plants or driftwood for hiding places and will be more active if they have lots of hiding places to retreat to. Plants, especially tall plants, will help to break up lighting and provide the subdued lighting ideal for these loaches. These loaches will also eat the small snails that are common "hitchhikers" on live plants. Loaches are bottom feeders and should have sinking foods. Meaty frozen foods like worms, brine, daphnia or similar foods are ideal and sinking catfish pellets can also be supplemented. Like many other loaches, these fish are scaleless, and so are more sensitive to medications and other chemicals in the water. They are also sensitive to cooler water temperatures. Maintaining the water within the specified temperature range will help to avoid stress and other complications.

Tridacna squamosa "Squamosa Clam" - Medium

Fri, 13 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Clams are wonderful additions to any reef aquaria but do have some requirements that make them more difficult than other inverts to keep. Some research is recommended before purchasing one to find out what species will work the best in your reef aquarium. Squamosa Clams ( Tridacna squamosa ) are sometimes known as "Fluted Clams" or "Scaly Clams" due to their very large, well-spaced "scutes" extended outward from the sides of the shell. They usually have a mottled brown, cream and gold colored mantle that can expand dramatically. Rare green or blue specimens can also occasionally be found. Mantle patterns can be striped, spotted, blotched and variations thereof. The shell of Crocea Clams is usually whitish but may have some yellow around the rim or scutes. Most Squamosa's are fairly fan-shaped and the tip of the hinge is usually in the center of the length of the shell. The hinge length can be 1/2 as long as the entire shell. These clams usually have about five or six prominent folds. As mentioned, the scutes on the shell are usually very large and spaced on Squamosa Clams. Aquacultured Squamosa's tend to have more closely-spaced scutes than those collected from the wild and the scutes towards the bottom of both aquacultured and wild clams can be broken or worn away. The "byssal opening" where the foot and byssal threads are extended from on the bottom of the clam can vary in size and tends to decrease as the clam grows, probably because the clam tends to become bottom-heavy with age and doesn't need to attach as strongly to its surface. Most Squamosa Clams are found on rocky crevices or rubble surfaces where they are attached. Some larger individuals have been found unattached on sandy bottoms in the wild but this is likely a result of the clam unattaching and "falling off" the reef face rather than the clam opting for this location. Squamosa Clams are fairly hardy, especially larger individuals. They require strong lighting and ideal water quality. In the aquarium, place high in the tank under direct light (Metal Halide, VHO, or Power Compact). Smaller clams with smaller mantles rely heavily on planktonic foods filtered from the water for their nutrition. They should be fed regularly with various types of planktonic foods like phytoplankton, zooplankton, oyster eggs, rotifers and similar items. Avoid keeping with potential predators or tankmates that may nip at the clam's mantle like some wrasses, angelfish, crabs, and others. For more information on these and other clams, visit the Giant Clams Species Profile on That Fish Blog by our staff marine biologists. The clam pictured above is representative only - the coloration of the clam you receive may vary. Please contact the Livestock department for information on availability of specific colorations.

Thalassoma jansenii "Jansen's Wrasse" - Small

Fri, 13 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Jansen's Wrasses are generally hardy and easy to care for. They are pale blue to white with thick black bars edged in yellow which expand as the fish matures. They prefer a tank with plenty of rock work. They should get along with other tank mates but can be aggressive toward other wrasses. They should accept frozen foods, and eventually flake/pellet food.

Sinularia dura "Colonial Leather Coral" - Small

Fri, 13 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Colonial Leather Coral, Sinularia dura , is very hardy, tolerating a wide range of water conditions. It is typically pink or orange colored and forms colonies of fungus shaped lobes. Tiny polyps emerge on the edges of the ruffled lobes. Detached pieces will quickly attach to solid surfaces. This coral is usually most successful in an aquarium with moderate to low lighting with supplements of invertebrate food like Marine Snow, Microvert or Zoo-plex. They will filter these particles out of the water for nutrition as well as absorb nutrition directly from the water through their tissue. Sinularia dura is one of the hardiest leather corals for home aquarists. Acclimate leather corals like these slowly to avoid collapse and mortality of the colony. A slow drip acclimation is best. Place the colony in an area with moderate to high flow to help slough off shedding skin.

Seriatopora hystrix "Bird's Nest Coral" - Large

Fri, 13 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Bird's Nest Corals ( Seriatopora sp. ) grow in a colony with thin, pointed (or nearly pointed) branches that grow in random directions to resemble the tangle of twigs of a bird's nest. The polyps on each "branch" grow in rows, a distinguishing characteristic that separates this coral from similar species like Cat's Paw Corals ( Stylophora sp. ). Color and shape vary, depending on the conditions under which the colony was grown. These corals grow best under bright lighting and moderate to high flow. Bird's Nest Corals generally do not tolerate fluctuations in water chemistry and should be kept in stable, mature systems. Calcium levels need to be maintained at a fairly consistent level (at least 420ppm) for this coral to maintain its rapid growth rate. This is one of the most popular corals among coral propogators and many varieties of frags are available.

Sarcophyton sp. "Green Toadstool Leather Coral"

Fri, 13 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Sarcophyton sp. "Green Toadstool Leather Coral" Toadstool Leather Corals ( Sarcophyton sp. ) are hardy, undemanding corals. With the exception of the Yellow Toadstool Leather ( Sarcophyton elegans ), most can adapt well to a wide range of conditions. These corals have a short "trunk" supporting a mushroom-shaped cap that can grow very large in diameter. Polyps extend periodically from this cap. Color is usually tan but can range from beige or darker brown to green or yellow. These corals may benefit from occasional feedings in the aquarium but survive mostly on photosynthesis from the zooxanthallae algae living in their tissues. They should be kept in a tank with moderate to high lighting. Toadstool Leathers can survive in lower lighting but will often change color and rely more on planktonic feedings if not given enough light. Conversely, they may become stressed in extremely high light and should be acclimated to any new lighting conditions carefully. Water movement should also be moderately strong to assist in waste removal and in the coral's periodic shedding of a mucus layer. These corals have low to moderate aggression and can easily fall victim to other aggressive corals although the mucus layer produced by their shedding can irritate some corals and they can grow large and outcompete other coral colonies. They also benefit from trace element supplements, particularly iodine which can assist in growth and in shedding. Most Toadstool Leathers can be successfully and easily propagated by either cutting the "cap" of the coral with a sharp blade and mounting the new piece onto a base or by cinching off a new piece by gradually tightening a length of fishing line, rubber band or zip tie around the area to be cut.

Sarcophyton elegans "Yellow Toadstool Leather Coral" - XLarge

Fri, 13 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Sarcophyton elegans "Yellow Toadstool Leather Coral" - XLarge Toadstool Leather Corals ( Sarcophyton sp. ) are hardy, undemanding corals. With the exception of the Yellow Toadstool Leather ( Sarcophyton elegans ), most can adapt well to a wide range of conditions. These corals have a short "trunk" supporting a mushroom-shaped cap that can grow very large in diameter. Polyps extend periodically from this cap. Color is usually tan but can range from beige or darker brown to green or yellow. These corals may benefit from occasional feedings in the aquarium but survive mostly on photosynthesis from the zooxanthallae algae living in their tissues. They should be kept in a tank with moderate to high lighting. Toadstool Leathers can survive in lower lighting but will often change color and rely more on planktonic feedings if not given enough light. Conversely, they may become stressed in extremely high light and should be acclimated to any new lighting conditions carefully. Water movement should also be moderately strong to assist in waste removal and in the coral's periodic shedding of a mucus layer. These corals have low to moderate aggression and can easily fall victim to other aggressive corals although the mucus layer produced by their shedding can irritate some corals and they can grow large and outcompete other coral colonies. They also benefit from trace element supplements, particularly iodine which can assist in growth and in shedding. Most Toadstool Leathers can be successfully and easily propagated by either cutting the "cap" of the coral with a sharp blade and mounting the new piece onto a base or by cinching off a new piece by gradually tightening a length of fishing line, rubber band or zip tie around the area to be cut. This is a Restricted item and is not covered by our Arrive Alive 5-Day Guarantee. Please visit the Guarantee Policy and Restricted Species webpages for more information.

Pomacanthus navarchus "Majestic Angel" - Large Adult

Fri, 13 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The adult Majestic Angel ( Pomacanthus navarchus , also referred to as the Bluegirdled Angel) has a blue-edged black girdle from the head to above the base of the tail. The rest of the body is orange with iridescent blue flecked spots. The dorsal and caudal fins are orange with blue trim, and the pelvic and pectoral fins are dark blue with pale blue edges. Juvenile Majestic Angels are dark blue or black with light blue vertical stripes. They may have an orange patch on the sides and dorsal. This is one of the more difficult and shy angelfish and should have plenty of spaces to retreat to if stressed or threatened. The larger angelfish available in the aquarium trade include those from the genera Apolemichthys , Chaetodontoplus , Holacanthus , Pomacanthus , and Pygoplites . Of these, Apolemichthys and Chaetodontoplus are generally the smallest and are sometimes considered "pygmy angels" compared to the much larger Holacanthus and Pomacanthus angels. The Regal Angelfish, Pygoplites diacanthus is the only fish in the Pygoplites genus. Juveniles and adults among these angels usually have very different appearances and, in the wild, usually live in harems with dominant males controlling a group of females.The color change in angels can be triggered by size, age or a change in social structure. Angels should not be kept with other large angels in the home aquarium to avoid territorial conflicts. Occasionally, two angels may tolerate one another in a very large aquarium if they have very different coloration and appearance, but is not typically recommended. Suitable tankmates for most large marine angels would be larger community fish like tangs, triggers, groupers, some damsels, butterflies and similar fish. More shy and passive angels can be kept with smaller, more docile tankmates. Be sure to take the adult size of the angelfish into consideration when choosing an angel for an aquarium as many can grow very large (albeit slowly) and need tankmates and an environment that can accommodate them. All angels have cheekspines at the edge of their gill cover and in the dorsal fin. Use caution when handling and avoid using a net that they may become stuck or tangled in. The diet of large angels generally consists of meaty foods, algaes, and marine sponge. Many frozen angel formulas and flakes may have extra sponge meal, and live sponges can be purchased to supplement their diet. These angels are not reef safe and have been known to nip at or eat some corals, sponges, and clam mantles. Some leather corals and anemones may be safe with larger angelfish but is not generally recommended. Visit That Fish Blog for an Overview on Natural History and Care of Marine Angelfishes as well as a Species Profile on the Queen Angelfish and more from our marine biologists.

Pomacanthus annularis "Blue Ring Angel" - Juvenile

Fri, 13 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The Blue Ring Angel ( Pomacanthus annularis , also referred to as the Annularis Angel) exhibits coloration that changes greatly from juvenile to adult. Juveniles are dark blue with with slightly curved vertical white and light blue lines on the body. Adults have an orange-brown body with blue lines running from either side of the eye diagonally across its body. The lines rejoin at the top of the rear portion of the body. A blue ring lies just behind the gill cover. The larger angelfish available in the aquarium trade include those from the genera Apolemichthys , Chaetodontoplus , Holacanthus , Pomacanthus , and Pygoplites . Of these, Apolemichthys and Chaetodontoplus are generally the smallest and are sometimes considered "pygmy angels" compared to the much larger Holacanthus and Pomacanthus angels. The Regal Angelfish, Pygoplites diacanthus is the only fish in the Pygoplites genus. Juveniles and adults among these angels usually have very different appearances and, in the wild, usually live in harems with dominant males controlling a group of females.The color change in angels can be triggered by size, age or a change in social structure. Angels should not be kept with other large angels in the home aquarium to avoid territorial conflicts. Occasionally, two angels may tolerate one another in a very large aquarium if they have very different coloration and appearance, but is not typically recommended. Suitable tankmates for most large marine angels would be larger community fish like tangs, triggers, groupers, some damsels, butterflies and similar fish. More shy and passive angels can be kept with smaller, more docile tankmates. Be sure to take the adult size of the angelfish into consideration when choosing an angel for an aquarium as many can grow very large (albeit slowly) and need tankmates and an environment that can accommodate them. All angels have cheekspines at the edge of their gill cover and in the dorsal fin. Use caution when handling and avoid using a net that they may become stuck or tangled in. The diet of large angels generally consists of meaty foods, algaes, and marine sponge. Many frozen angel formulas and flakes may have extra sponge meal, and live sponges can be purchased to supplement their diet. These angels are not reef safe and have been known to nip at or eat some corals, sponges, and clam mantles. Some leather corals and anemones may be safe with larger angelfish but is not generally recommended. Visit That Fish Blog for an Overview on Natural History and Care of Marine Angelfishes as well as a Species Profile on the Queen Angelfish and more from our marine biologists.

Pervagor melanocephalus "Redtail Filefish"

Fri, 13 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Redtail Filefish ( Pervagor melanocephalus ) are characterized by their bright orange-red back end. The front half of the fish is a dark olive-grey color. Filefish are related to the "Triggerfish" common to the aquarium trade but are generally much more docile and peaceful in nature. Although they are compatible with most fish of a similar temperament, they are generally not Reef Safe and will pick at corals, polyps, crabs and other invertebrates. They are best kept in a peaceful, fish-only community aquarium. Some filefish may be tricky to acclimate to an aquarium diet. Most will accept meaty foods like plankton, clams, brine shrimp, mysis shrimp and similar items. Filefish have small mouths designed for picking food items from small crevices and they cannot eat large items. They may still pick at or attempt to eat crustaceans like shrimp however and may pick at or eat some corals and polyps.

Paracirrhites forsteri "Freckled Hawkfish" - Small

Fri, 13 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The Freckled Hawkfish ( Paracirrhites forsteri ) has variable color depending on age and where it was collected. Its upper half is normally purplish-brown, fading to almost black toward the rear. A broad white stripe may run down the sides above an underside that may match the top half or may be yellow to almost white and the dorsal may also be lighter. The head is peppered with the dark reddish-purple spots that give the fish its common name. Hawkfish are generally hardy fish with tons of "personality". They do not have swim bladders like most other fish and can usually be found perching on the substrate or rockwork. When a potential meal or invaders to their territorial swims (or crawls) by, the hawkfish will swoop in like their avian namesakes. They are always alert and will "hop" from perch to perch to investigate their surroundings. These fish can be kept with most other tankmates in a community or reef aquarium. Aside from any irritation that their perching may cause, they will not bother or damage corals and stationary invertebrates. They will, however, prey on smaller tankmates and crustaceans like shrimp. Hawkfish are not picky eaters and will almost always act hungry. They can be fed a variety of size-appropriate meaty foods (various types of shrimp, scallop, krill, fish flesh, plankton, squid, etc.) and most will also accept prepared foods like flakes and pellets. Larger hawkfish can be given live ghost shrimp as an occasional treat.

Paracheilinus flavianalis "Yellowfin Flasher Wrasse"

Fri, 13 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Paracheilinus flavianalis "Yellowfin Flasher Wrasse" The Yellowfin Fairy Wrasse ( Paracheilinus flavianalis ) is orange-red with violet-blue stripes and a yellow anal fin. The dorsal fin is mostly yellow with a long red filament extending from the center. Fairy Wrasses ( Cirrhilabrus sp. ) and Flasher Wrasses ( Paracheilinus sp. ) have a generally placid temperament and tolerate most tankmates, provided that they have plenty of places to escape to and hide to feel secure. Flasher Wrasses tend to be more active and outgoing than Fairy Wrasses and the two groups may be aggressive towards each other. Males of both groups are usually brighter in color than juveniles and females, and males will show their colors and behavior to the best advantage in the presence of a female. Regional variations and cross-breeding within each groups can make identification difficult. Both Fairy and Flasher wrasses can usually be found around rubble piles and rockwork and should have plenty in the tank to retreat to. These wrasses are perfect for reef aquariums. Most will not harm corals, polyps or most invertebrates but should not be kept with very small crustaceans like Sexy Shrimp. These fish are known jumpers, so the tank should be covered at all times. These wrasses will usually accept most types of small foods once acclimated. They can be fed a varied diet of flakes, frozen and fresh foods like copepods, Cyclops, brine shrimp, mysis shrimp and similar items.

Parachaetodon ocellatus "Sixspine Butterflyfish" - Small

Fri, 13 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Parachaetodon ocellatus "Sixspine Butterflyfish" - Small Ocellated Coralfish have a triangular body shape and coloration similar to Copperband Butterflies. They are white with five orange-brown bars, and ocellated spot at the base of the tail, and a small black spot in the tall dorsal fin. They are not reef safe, and may nip at coral polyps and sessile inverts. They should feed on meaty frozen foods like worms and mysis.

Neopetrolisthes ohshimai "Spotted Anemone Crab"

Fri, 13 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Spotted Anemone Crabs ( Neopetrolisthes ohshimai ) are white with purple spots. They live within or under the tentacles of an anemone, usually the same types of anemones the serve as clownfish hosts (Bubbletip, Carpet, Long Tentacle, Sebae, etc.). They should generally not be kept with a clownfish as the clownfish will not usually share its anemone and will drive off or kill the anemone crab. Anemone Crabs are related to Porcelain Crabs. These crabs are named "Porcelain Crabs" because of their apparent fragility. When threatened, Porcelain Crabs may break off a claw or legs in an attempt to distract and predator so the crab can escape. This is not uncommon and may also happen during transport, acclimation, or during the crab's normal molt. This does not affect the crab's health and the legs will grow back over time. These crabs extend modified feeding "combs" into the water to trap planktonic foods from the water. They should be fed supplementally with food for filter-feeding invertebrates like phytoplankton, zooplankton and Marine Snow.

Moseleya latistellata "Australian Moseleya Coral"

Fri, 13 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Moseleya Coral is a very unique coral related to Moon Corals. It has a very distinct appearance. Each corallite is large and cup-shaped and will usually form around one central and larger corallite. They are usually green but can have pink, purple or blue in their coloration as well. These corals are not very widespread and are still fairly uncommon in the aquarium trade. They are usually found on the bottom of muddy or very fine-sand environments in turbid water (meaning the water has a lot of suspended particles, giving it a muddy or milky appearance). They are fairly undemanding and do best in moderate light and low to moderate flow. They are not sugnificantly aggressive.

Misgurnus anguillicaudatus "Weather Loach"

Fri, 13 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The Weather Loach or Dojo Loach is so named becuase it will become very active and swim erratically in response to sudden changes in barometric pressure or temperature. It is a very long, slender fish that is mainly olive to brown in color with dark, irregular speckles all over its body. They have very interesting whiskers or "barbels" that help them find food as they dig through the substrate. Though they are reported to reach a length of 10 inches, they more frequently only grow to be about 5 inches. Weather loaches are very versatile in that they can withstand a large variety of temperatures and water conditions. They survive long, cold winters and droughts by burrowing deep in the mud and secreting a thick mucus. These loaches are fun fish to watch because of their interesting array of behaviors. They are generally active both in the daytime and at night, and can usually be seen burrowing in the substrsate and looking for food. Because they are inclined to dig, it is important to provide fine sand or small, smooth sided gravel to prevent injury to the fish. Weather loaches are not picky eaters, and will accept most fresh and prepared foods. In Korea and Japan, weather loaches are sold for use in soups and some other foods.

Macrodactyla doreensis "Purple Long Tentacle Anemone" - Medium

Fri, 13 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Macrodactyla doreensis "Purple Long Tentacle Anemone" - Medium Long Tentacle Anemones ( Macrodactyla doreensis ) usually have a red or orange base with pale spots and tentacles that vary in color from brown to green or striped with white. Rare individuals can have bluish or bright purple tentacles. Small anemones may have slightly beaded tentacles, and large anemones may have tentacles that curl towards the tips (leading to the alternate common name, the Corkscrew Anemone). This is one of the most common aquarium anemones, especially as clownfish hosts. Anemones get most of their nutrition from the aquarium lighting and dissolved nutrients in the water but occasional feedings are beneficial. Shrimp, clam, krill and other meaty foods can be fed occassionally by placing the food on top of the anemone near its mouth and making sure no other tankmates take it before the anemone can take it in. Anemones have a high aggressiveness rating because they are mobile and have strong nematocysts (stinging cells) that can kill or damage other corals or animals. They will need large areas in which to expand their tentacles and should be placed in an aquarium that will allow them to open fully. Once they stay in a particular place, make sure no corals are to close as they may sting the coral in an attempt to keep it out of the territory. Anemones can sting people - avoid touching the tentacles of any anemone without proper protection, especially if you have sensitive skin or known allergies to other stings like bees or wasps. When first placed in the aquarium, they are known to move around to find the place where they feel they are having all their requirements met. This will normally happen anytime a change is made to their environment. Most anemones like to have their bases under a ledge or in a hole for protection, in a position that their tentacles can extend into the light. Lighting and water movement may affect the appearance, as may the presence of clownfish hosting in the tentacles. They generally need medium direct light, with medium water movement. While the interaction between anemones and clownfish (or other hosting tankmates like anemone crabs or anemone shrimp) can be interesting to watch, a clownfish is not necessary for the survival of an anemone and vice versa. Most clownfish have preferences for the types of anemones they will host in but may or may not choose a specific anemone as a host. Not all anemones are suitable as a host for clownfish or other animals. Visit That Fish Blog for more information from our marine biologists on anemone and clownfish preferences. This is a Restricted item and is not covered by our Arrive Alive 5-Day Guarantee. Please visit the Guarantee Policy and Restricted Species webpages for more information.

Lobophyllia sp. "Red Tooth Coral" - XLarge

Fri, 13 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Lobophyllia sp. "Red Tooth Coral" - XLarge Tooth Corals ( Lobophyllia sp. ) have heavy, rigid skeletons and thick, fleshy polyp heads. Coloration varies greatly; they can be green, red, brown, pink, and other colors, and in any combination of colors. Some colonies may be striped or have contrasting colors to the rims and centers of each polyp. The skeleton beneath the polyp heads is very sharp and care must be taken not to damage the fleshy skin over laying the skeleton as this may cause infections. Securing the coral will go a long way in ensuring the safety of the coral. Tooth Corals can adapt to a wide range of lighting conditions, if acclimated with care, and will also accept meaty foods. They feed with sweeper tentacles, primarily at night. Moderate water flow is best. Tooth Corals are hardy and require low maintenence.

Labidochromis sp. "Mbamba Yellow Dorsal"

Fri, 13 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

This attractive Mbuna features bright blue coloration with black stripes, very similar looking to the Pseudotropheus Demasoni. The dorsal and other fins are bright yellow, as the common name would imply. While not as aggressive as other Mbuna, Labidochromis will fight amongst themselves, so they are best one to a tank unless the tank is very large. They enjoy a diet rich in algae and vegetable matter. A staple flake, along with the occasional treat of meaty frozen food is a good diet. Tank decor should contain plenty of rockwork, a suitable substrate for maintaining water hardness, and some plants that can handle the higher pH. They are maternal mouth brooders, meaning the female will carry the eggs and fry in her mouth for protection.

Junceella sp. "Spiral Wire Coral"

Fri, 13 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The Spiral Wire Coral ( Junceella sp. ) is a rare gorgonian not often found in the aquarium trade. Much is still unknown about this genus. They are not branching like many other well-known gorgonians but appear to grow in long, whip-like formations or spiraled corals. Some are thought to be photosynthetic while others are strictly filter-feeders. This is a Restricted item and is not covered by our Arrive Alive 5-Day Guarantee. Please visit the Guarantee Policy and Restricted Species webpages for more information.

Heros efasciatus "Gold Severum" - Small

Fri, 13 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Severums are often misidentified as Heros severus , a similar species that is rarely available in the trade. Heros efasciatus has several color variants several of which are line bred aquarium strains like the Gold Severum. This strain is pale yellow with red-orange specks. This is known to be rather docile as far as South American cichlids go, though they can become quite aggressive if spawning. This fish is also very smart and personable and can sometimes learn to eat out of its owners hand. Tankmates would be other South American cichlids of similar temperament, as well as other fast-swimming, tough fish. Tank decor for severums is ample swimming space and various rock or driftwood escapes. Plants may be introduced, but there is a minimal chance that some leaves may be chewed. Severums will accept a variety of foods such as flake or pellet, though they prefer a rich, meaty diet of frozen foods and freeze-dried items. This cichlid is also relatively easy to breed. The parents will clean off a flat surface, such as a rock, and lay up to 1000 eggs. Both male and female will look after the eggs and fry.

Gymnothorax thyrsoideus "White-eyed Moray Eel" - Medium

Fri, 13 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The White-eyed Moray ( Gymnothorax thyrsoideus **), also known as the Greyface or Slender Moray, is fairly common in the Indo-Pacific and is often found around tidal pools or shipwrecks. It has a yellowish body covered in tiny brown speckles. The head is purplish-grey with bright white irises distinctive to this species. Moray Eels commonly found in the aquarium trade are predators. They usually cannot be kept in groups and only one eel should be kept in most aquariums. Their natural diet includes smaller fish and invertebrates like crabs and shrimp; tankmates should be chosen carefully since an eel may prey on smaller tankmates. In the aquarium, eels can be fed a varied diet of fresh and frozen meaty foods like shrimp, crabs, scallops, fish flesh and similar items. It is not unusual for an eel to go on a "hunger strike" and not feed for several weeks at a time, especially after a stressful event like being moved to a new home. It is best to continue to attempt to feed the eel until it accepts the food; live feeders or appetite stimulants can be used to encourage feeding. Most eels, especially larger individuals, only need to be feed every two to three days. Eels will usually establish a "home base" and spend much of their time peering out of the rockwork. Their mouth is often open, more as a way of "tasting" the water and environment around it rather than as a sign of aggressive since their eyesight is poor but sense of smell is keen. Most eels will not bother corals and stationary inverts although the large size of most and their housing in the rockwork can topple some colonies. Aggression can vary from passive, docile species to very aggressive predators and sizes can range from around a foot to up to six feet in some species often sold for home aquariums. Eels will get more aggressive around feeding time or when they smell food in the water. While eels are not venomous, their mouths are full of bacteria and bites can get easily infected; avoid hand-feeding eels and be aware of the eel's location and behavior at all times . The teeth of most eels are curved and quickly pulling away once bit can cause the bite to be worsened; most eels bite out of defense and curiosity and will usually let go quickly. The tank should be covered tightly at all times since eels are prone to escaping from aquariums, especially if threatened. Weights or tank lid locks can be necessary for larger eels that might be able to knock the lid open. Morays are nocturnal and are most active at night. Visit That Fish Blog for more information from our marine biologists on Moray Eels and many other aquarium-related topics! **Note: This eel is also known as Siderea thyrsoidea in some references although this is not considered the accepted scientific name of this species as of 2011.

Goniopora sp. "Short-polyped Flower Pot Coral"

Fri, 13 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Goniopora sp. "Short-polyped Flower Pot Coral" Flower Pot Corals are tempting, spectacular corals in the aquarium. However, their long term survival is dependent on the right conditions. Only the advanced reef aquarist should attempt keeping this species of coral. Expanded, this coral forms a ball of large tentacles, looking much like a blooming bunch of flowers. Most commonly found in shades of green or tan, rare specimens are found in red and purple. Branching structures are also sometimes found with the colonies on the ends of thick, bulbous branches. Goniopora sp. corals are very closely related to another group of corals, Alveopora sp. , with the primary difference being tentacle length and the number of fringes around the rim of each tentacle. Goniopora sp. corals usually have longer tentacles and 24 fringes around each rim while Alveopora sp. only has 12. Alveopora sp. also usually has a more opaque color than the more translucent Goniopora sp. . Both may be known as Flower Pot Corals. Place this coral in medium to high light and medium water movement. Make sure that the coral is secure, as it is prone to falling when expanded. Occassionally, a clownfish may attempt to host in Goniopora sp. corals since their appearance in the water resembles an anemone. This often results in damage to or even loss of the coral since the clownfish's actions often damage the flesh of the coral where it is rubbed against the coral's skeleton.

Genicanthus melanospilos "Blackspot Lyretail Angel" - Medium Female

Fri, 13 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The male Blackspot Lyretail Angelfish ( Genicanthus melanospilos ) has numerous thin vertical brown bars on its pale grey body. It also has gold spots on its lyretail and dorsal fin. The female has a light grey face and belly, a yellow back, and light grey tail with black margins. The smaller angelfish and "pygmy angelfish" available in the aquarium trade include those from the genera Apolemichthys , Centropyge , Chaetodontoplus , Genicanthus , and a few others. Of these, Apolemichthys and Chaetodontoplus are generally the largest. Centropyge is the largest group and some fish have been separated into new species and genera in recent years. Suitable tankmates for most of these angels would be community fish like tangs, clownfish, damsels, gobies, blennies, butterflies and similar fish. More shy and passive angels can be kept with smaller, more docile tankmates. Angels should not be kept with other angels in the home aquarium to avoid territorial conflicts. Occasionally, two angels may tolerate one another in a very large aquarium if they have very different coloration and appearance, but is not typical. All angels have cheekspines at the edge of their gill cover and in the dorsal fin; use caution when handling and avoid using a net that they may become stuck or tangled in. The diet of angels generally consists of meaty foods and algaes. They can be fed a variety of frozen items like formulas, mysis shrimp, brine shrimp, scallops and others, as well as pellets, flakes, algae sheets and other foods. Many can be kept successfully in a reef, but use caution with any angels in a reef system, especially with polyps and SPS corals; some have been known to nip at the occasionally polyp, coral or clam mantle but not to the extent of the larger angel species. Genicanthus angelfish are generally planktivores and are not usually a large risk to corals. Visit That Fish Blog for an Overview on Natural History and Care of Marine Angelfishes as well as a Species Profile on the Pygmy Angelfish and more from our marine biologists and aquatic staff.

Coradion altivelis "Highfin Coralfish"

Fri, 13 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Coradion altivelis "Highfin Coralfish" The Highfin Coralfish ( Coradion altivelis ) has a wide orange bar across the rear portion of the body, dorsal and anal fins. There are a pair of brown bars behind the head, and a brown bar through the eyes. These butterflyfish are similar to Copperband Butterflies ( Chelmon rostratus ) in temperament, but are not at all common in the trade. Butterflyfish consist of a large number of fish found in the aquarium trade from the Chaetodon , Chelmon , Forcipiger , and Heniochus genuses, among others from the family Chaetodontidae . The family ranges in length from 3 inches up to close to 12 inches in length. Butterflies are usually roughly oval in body shape but longer fins make some appear elliptical or diamond-shaped. They resemble and are sometimes confused with angelfish (family Pomacentridae ) but angelfish have a cheekspine that is not found in butterflies. Butterflies are generally community fish in nature. Though some more pugnatious species may terrorize smaller or more docile fish, most can be kept with a wide range of community tankmates. Most butterfly species are not "reef safe" and will eat corals and polyps. In fact, some more delicate butterflies require corals as part of their natural diet. Butterflies may also harm smaller crustaceans (crabs and shrimp) and may pick at inverts like clams, feather dusters, anemones and similar tankmates. Use caution when introducing a butterfly into a tank with inverts; though some are considered "reef safe" by some aquarists, any butterfly may pose a risk to corals and inverts. The diet of butterflies can vary, as mentioned, based on what they normally eat in the wild. Some very picky species only pick at coral flesh and can be difficult to wean onto an aquarium-based diet. A very varied diet of algaes and meaty items like brine shrimp, mysis shrimp, scallops, clam, corals, sponges and other items is best. Vitamin supplements can also help get the butterflies all the nutrition they require. While some butterflies are very hardy and suitable for aquarists of all levels, more sensitive species should be attempted by experienced aquarists only.

Choerodon fasciatus "Australian Harlequin Tuskfish"

Fri, 13 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Harlequin Tuskfish have alternating blue-trimmed white and orange stripes. The tail is white and the area around the base of the tail becomes darker blue to black on mature fish. The eye is red and the anal fin is dark red and blue. Its blue teeth are one of the trademark characteristics. Juveniles tend to be more brownish-tan in coloration but will develop into the brighter orange colored stripes as they mature. Juveniles and subadults also have a black eyespot at the front and rear of the dorsal fins, on the anal fin and on the pelvic fins. Fish collected from Australia are known and prized for brighter color. Tuskfish are closely related to wrasses and behave in much the same manner, though most are relatively docile with equal or larger sized tankmates. They will prey on smaller fish and inverts such as starfish, urchins, shrimp and crabs. While they may overturn or damage a colony while searching for food, tuskfish do not actively eat corals. Tuskfish are not normally picky eats and should be given a variety of meaty frozen or freeze-dried foods. Newly introduced fish may take some time to become acclimated and begin eating however; be sure that a more shy tuskfish is being given a chance to eat and is not being outcompeted by other tankmates. Tuskfish are solitary and territorial and should not be housed in groups.

Chinese Zebra Goby - Ptereleotris zebra - Medium

Fri, 13 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The Chinese Zebra Goby ( Ptereleotris zebra , also known as the Barred Goby or Dartfish) has an elongated body colored green to grey-green with blue-edged pink vertical stripes, a black bar below the eye, and black edging across the dorsal fin. Dartfish are long, slender fish from the Ptereleotridae family that are often found hovering higher in the water column than most gobies that live in or on surfaces and rockwork. This family includes the popular Firefish Gobies (genus Nemateleotris ) and other similar and popular aquarium fish. Dartfish are ideal for reef aquariums. They do best on a diet of live foods like plankton and small crustaceans but will also eat small meaty frozen foods. Diet can consist of small meaty frozen foods or small flake and pellet foods. Dartfish need plenty of rockwork to hide in and feel comfortable. The name "Dartfish" comes from their habit of "darting" quickly back into the rockwork whenever threatened or frightened. Dartfish are often skittish and easily frightened; a tight-fitting lid is recommended to keep the fish from jumping out of the aquarium. They are peaceful toward other fish but may become territorial if they are crowded in small aquariums (particularly with members of their own species). Though it may take them some time to become comfortable and active, they often act as "dither fish" and their activity can encourage other shy fish to come out into the open more often.

Chaetodontoplus mesoleucus "Vermiculated Angel" - Medium

Fri, 13 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The Vermiculated Angel ( Chateodontoplus mesoleucus , also known as the Singapore Angel) is predominantly white in the front and black in the back, with light blue edges on the posterior end of the dorsal and anal fins, and a yellow nose and tail. The mouth is blue. This angel is often mistaken for butterflyfish, in large part due to the black mask over its eye. The smaller angelfish and "pygmy angelfish" available in the aquarium trade include those from the genera Apolemichthys , Centropyge , Chaetodontoplus , Genicanthus , and a few others. Of these, Apolemichthys and Chaetodontoplus are generally the largest. Centropyge is the largest group and some fish have been separated into new species and genera in recent years. Suitable tankmates for most of these angels would be community fish like tangs, clownfish, damsels, gobies, blennies, butterflies and similar fish. More shy and passive angels can be kept with smaller, more docile tankmates. Angels should not be kept with other angels in the home aquarium to avoid territorial conflicts. Occasionally, two angels may tolerate one another in a very large aquarium if they have very different coloration and appearance, but is not typical. All angels have cheekspines at the edge of their gill cover and in the dorsal fin; use caution when handling and avoid using a net that they may become stuck or tangled in. The diet of angels generally consists of meaty foods and algaes. They can be fed a variety of frozen items like formulas, mysis shrimp, brine shrimp, scallops and others, as well as pellets, flakes, algae sheets and other foods. Many can be kept successfully in a reef, but use caution with any angels in a reef system, especially with polyps and SPS corals; some have been known to nip at the occasionally polyp, coral or clam mantle but not to the extent of the larger angel species. Angels from the Chaetodontoplus genus can be a greater risk than other smaller angels. Visit That Fish Blog for an Overview on Natural History and Care of Marine Angelfishes as well as a Species Profile on the Pygmy Angelfish and more from our marine biologists and aquatic staff.

Chaetodon ulietensis "False Double Saddle Butterfly" - Small

Fri, 13 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The False Double Saddle Butterfly ( Chaetodon ulietensis ) has two indistinct greyish saddles, and a smaller black band running through the fishes eye. The rear quarter of the fish is yellow, with a small black spot marking the base of the tail. It may also be referred to as the Pacific Double Saddle Butterflyfish This fish is often confused with Chaetodon falcula from the Indian Ocean, usually known as the "true" Double Saddle Butterfly or Blackwedge Butterfly. The area between the black saddles is yellow on C. falcula and white on C. ulietensis . The saddles themselves are usually crisper on C. falcula and blurrier on C. ulietensis . This butterfly is known to eat anemones as well as corals and some other inverts. Butterflyfish consist of a large number of fish found in the aquarium trade from the Chaetodon , Chelmon , Forcipiger , and Heniochus genuses, among others from the family Chaetodontidae . The family ranges in length from 3 inches up to close to 12 inches in length. Butterflies are usually roughly oval in body shape but longer fins make some appear elliptical or diamond-shaped. They resemble and are sometimes confused with angelfish (family Pomacentridae ) but angelfish have a cheekspine that is not found in butterflies. Butterflies are generally community fish in nature. Though some more pugnatious species may terrorize smaller or more docile fish, most can be kept with a wide range of community tankmates. Most butterfly species are not "reef safe" and will eat corals and polyps. In fact, some more delicate butterflies require corals as part of their natural diet. Butterflies may also harm smaller crustaceans (crabs and shrimp) and may pick at inverts like clams, feather dusters, anemones and similar tankmates. Use caution when introducing a butterfly into a tank with inverts; though some are considered "reef safe" by some aquarists, any butterfly may pose a risk to corals and inverts. The diet of butterflies can vary, as mentioned, based on what they normally eat in the wild. Some very picky species only pick at coral flesh and can be difficult to wean onto an aquarium-based diet. A very varied diet of algaes and meaty items like brine shrimp, mysis shrimp, scallops, clam, corals, sponges and other items is best. Vitamin supplements can also help get the butterflies all the nutrition they require. While some butterflies are very hardy and suitable for aquarists of all levels, more sensitive species should be attempted by experienced aquarists only.

Apolemichthys trimaculatus "Flagfin Angel" - Large

Fri, 13 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The Flagfin Angelfish ( Apolemichthys trimaculatus ) has a brilliant yellow body, blue lips, blue cheek spines and a black spot on the forehead. The anal fin has a broad black margin. Juveniles may also have a false black eyespot towards the rear of their bodies and both may also have a blotch towards the top of their gill cover. The larger angelfish available in the aquarium trade include those from the genera Apolemichthys , Chaetodontoplus , Holacanthus , Pomacanthus , and Pygoplites . Of these, Apolemichthys and Chaetodontoplus are generally the smallest and are sometimes considered "pygmy angels" compared to the much larger Holacanthus and Pomacanthus angels. The Regal Angelfish, Pygoplites diacanthus is the only fish in the Pygoplites genus. Juveniles and adults among these angels usually have very different appearances and, in the wild, usually live in harems with dominant males controlling a group of females.The color change in angels can be triggered by size, age or a change in social structure. Angels should not be kept with other large angels in the home aquarium to avoid territorial conflicts. Occasionally, two angels may tolerate one another in a very large aquarium if they have very different coloration and appearance, but is not typically recommended. Suitable tankmates for most large marine angels would be larger community fish like tangs, triggers, groupers, some damsels, butterflies and similar fish. More shy and passive angels can be kept with smaller, more docile tankmates. Be sure to take the adult size of the angelfish into consideration when choosing an angel for an aquarium as many can grow very large (albeit slowly) and need tankmates and an environment that can accommodate them. All angels have cheekspines at the edge of their gill cover and in the dorsal fin. Use caution when handling and avoid using a net that they may become stuck or tangled in. The diet of large angels generally consists of meaty foods, algaes, and marine sponge. Many frozen angel formulas and flakes may have extra sponge meal, and live sponges can be purchased to supplement their diet. These angels are not reef safe and have been known to nip at or eat some corals, sponges, and clam mantles. Some leather corals and anemones may be safe with larger angelfish but is not generally recommended. Visit That Fish Blog for an Overview on Natural History and Care of Marine Angelfishes as well as a Species Profile on the Queen Angelfish and more from our marine biologists. This is a Restricted item and is not covered by our Arrive Alive 5-Day Guarantee. Please visit the Guarantee Policy and Restricted Species webpages for more information.

Anampses meleagrides "Yellowtail Tamarin Wrasse" - Small

Fri, 13 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Yellowtail Tamarin Wrasses ( Anampses meleagrides ) are black with white dots and a yellow tail. There are two ringed spots found at the end of the dorsal and anal fin. Tamarin Wrasses (genus Anampses ), Leopard Wrasses (genus Macropharyngodon ), Lined Wrasses (genera Pseudocheilinus and Pseudocheilinops ) and Possum Wrasses (genus Wetmorella ) are generally peaceful for their size and can be kept with a wide range of tankmates. Many can also be kept in reef aquariums, and should not bother corals although an occassional individual may nip at some coral polyps or overturn colonies while searching for food. These wrasses generally eat a wide range of food, including fresh, live and prepared meaty foods like brine shrimp, mysis, copepods, Cyclopeeze and similar items. Tamarin and Leopard Wrasses find most of their food within the substrate and need a healthy microfauna population to graze upon to survive. Some fish from all of these groups are also known to bury in the substrate when threatened or at night. They are also known jumpers and the tank should be covered at all times. This is a Restricted item and is not covered by our Arrive Alive 5-Day Guarantee. Please visit the Guarantee Policy and Restricted Species webpages for more information.

Amphiprion nigripes "Rose Skunk Clownfish"

Fri, 13 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Amphiprion nigripes "Rose Skunk Clownfish" The Rose Clownfish ( Amphiprion nigripes ) has a unique peachy-rose coloration with a darker underside. They havea stout body shape and one white stripe through their head. Clownfish are some of the hardiest and most traditional fish for marine aquariums. They generally come from two genuses - most are in the genus Amphiprion with one species in the genus Premnas - and all are found in the Pomacentridae family along with damsels and chromises. They are some of the mostly widely tankraised fish, leading to more man-made variations becoming available like Misbars and Albinos as species are selectively bred and crossed. It is usually best to keep one clownfish per tank, though a pair can sometimes be kept if one is significantly smaller than the other or are about the same size when added as juveniles. One fish will develop into a female and become larger in size while the other (or others, in large tanks) will remain male. As the fish mature, they may also become aggressive towards new arrivals (or hands in the tank), so be prepared for aggression to follow even if the new fish is large in size. Mixing tankraised and wild-caught individuals is generally not recommended since their immunity and exposure to diseases and parasites may be different. Clownfish are generally not fussy eaters, and will accept a range of frozen and prepared foods like flakes, pellets, and frozen formulas. They can benefit from some plant matter in their diet, although they are not considered herbivores and do need some meaty foods. Some clownfish can be sensitive to toxins, especially heavy metal based medications like copper. Though the interaction between anemones and clownfish is amusing to watch, it is not necessary to the survival of either animal. Some clownfish will only host in specific anemones and vice versa. A host anemone should generally have a diameter of at least twice the length of the clownfish when introduced together for the best health of both the clownfish and the anemone. Tankraised fish can also be less likely to use a host anemone than wild-caught fish. Visit That Fish Blog for more information from our marine biologists on clownfish social structure and gender , anemone selection and preferences and other clownfish-related topics.

Alpheus randalli "Randall's Pistol Shrimp"

Fri, 13 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The Randall's Pistol Shrimp is one of the most popular and sought-after pistol shrimp species. It has red and white bands with some yellow in its legs. It is not available often and they are usually very small when available. Pistol shrimp get their name from the loud popping sound they can make by quickly opening or closing their specially adapted claws. This is used as a defense mechanism to frighten off would-be predators and, unlike the Mantis Shrimp they are sometimes confused with, they are harmless to most tankmates. Pistol shrimp are scavengers and carnivores. They can be target-fed with small meaty foods occassionally but they will also feed on leftover food in the aquarium. They can be kept with most fish that will not prey on them but should not be kept with small shrimp or lobsters. Watchman or Shrimpgobies often form symbiotic relationships with certain types of Pistol Shrimp. They will prepare a den and mutually occupy it, sharing food and maintenance duties, and the protection of the burrow. The interactions of this relationship is tremendously entertaining, and may be best enjoyed in a small species set-up. This is a Restricted item and is not covered by our Arrive Alive 5-Day Guarantee. Please visit the Guarantee Policy and Restricted Species webpages for more information.

Acanthurus nigricans "Powder Grey Tang" - Medium

Fri, 13 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The Powder Grey Tang ( Acanthurus nigricans ) is also known as the Goldrim Tang or the Whitecheek Tang. It is also sometimes incorrectly classified as A. glaucopareius , a former name and junior synonym. The Powder Grey Tang has a brownish-grey body with a white tail and a white blotch below each eye.The dorsal and anal fins are very dark brown-black with yellow along the base. The base of the tail matches the body color and the spine in its middle is yellow. There is also a yellow vertical stripe through the tail. The very similar Powder Brown Tang ( A. japonicus ) has an orange patch in the dorsal fin and yellow through the base of the tail which is abscent in the Powder Grey Tang. Tangs and Surgeonfish are some of the most popular and common fish found in the aquarium trade. This group includes several genuses that can be associated with the various common name groups although "Surgeonfish" and "Tang" are often used interchangeably: Acanthurus ("Surgeonfish"), Naso ("Unicorn Tangs"), Ctenochaetus ("Bristletooth Tangs") and Zebrasoma ("Tangs"). They are found in almost every tropical oceans and in almost every color and pattern. The common names ???? 1/2surgeonfish???? 1/2 or "doctorfish" comes from the tiny scalpel-like spine at the base of the fish's tail. They use this spine as defense and will extend the spine if threatened. You may witness the tang shimmying up against another tang or fish; this is a sign of aggression as they may be using this spine to ward off the other fish. Always use caution when handling or netting a tang since this spine can become caught or cause injuries. Tangs and Surgeonfish are omnivores but a large part of the diet of most species consists of algae and plant matter. Tangs should also be given some meaty food to round out their diet. However, tangs that are fed primarily meaty foods over a long period of time are more likely to suffer from head and lateral line erosion (HLLE). HLLE disease in the short run is not fatal, but over time if the disease continues to progress the fish will stop eating and become lethargic and susceptible to other infections which may eventually contribute to its demise. The best treatment is prevention; maintain excellent water quality and feed a rich and varied diet. Supplementing with a multivitamin (A, D, E, B complex, and Iodine) may also help prevent further erosion. Tangs are generally community fish and get along with most other tankmates. Most do not bother corals and can actually help keep nuisance algae trimmed and under control, especially "Bristletooth Tangs" from the Ctenochaetus genus. Tangs may get territorial and aggressive towards similar tangs, so always use caution when keeping these fish together or with other fish that have a similar body shape or coloration. Visit That Fish Blog for more information on Tangs and Surgeonfish and other aquarium-related topics from our marine biologists and aquatic staff.

Acanthurus lineatus "Clown Tang" - Medium

Fri, 13 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The Clown Tang ( Acanthurus lineatus ) is also known as the Pajama or Lined Surgeonfish. It has a yellow body with horizontal dark-edged, light blue lines. The pelvic fins are yellow and the bottom quarter to third of the fish is whitish without stripes. Clown Tangs can be very aggressive towards each other and should be kept singly. They are more peaceful and generally okay with other types of fish though they can become very territorial with age. Tangs and Surgeonfish are some of the most popular and common fish found in the aquarium trade. This group includes several genuses that can be associated with the various common name groups although "Surgeonfish" and "Tang" are often used interchangeably: Acanthurus ("Surgeonfish"), Naso ("Unicorn Tangs"), Ctenochaetus ("Bristletooth Tangs") and Zebrasoma ("Tangs"). They are found in almost every tropical oceans and in almost every color and pattern. The common names ???? 1/2surgeonfish???? 1/2 or "doctorfish" comes from the tiny scalpel-like spine at the base of the fish's tail. They use this spine as defense and will extend the spine if threatened. You may witness the tang shimmying up against another tang or fish; this is a sign of aggression as they may be using this spine to ward off the other fish. Always use caution when handling or netting a tang since this spine can become caught or cause injuries. Tangs and Surgeonfish are omnivores but a large part of the diet of most species consists of algae and plant matter. Tangs should also be given some meaty food to round out their diet. However, tangs that are fed primarily meaty foods over a long period of time are more likely to suffer from head and lateral line erosion (HLLE). HLLE disease in the short run is not fatal, but over time if the disease continues to progress the fish will stop eating and become lethargic and susceptible to other infections which may eventually contribute to its demise. The best treatment is prevention; maintain excellent water quality and feed a rich and varied diet. Supplementing with a multivitamin (A, D, E, B complex, and Iodine) may also help prevent further erosion. Tangs are generally community fish and get along with most other tankmates. Most do not bother corals and can actually help keep nuisance algae trimmed and under control, especially "Bristletooth Tangs" from the Ctenochaetus genus. Tangs may get territorial and aggressive towards similar tangs, so always use caution when keeping these fish together or with other fish that have a similar body shape or coloration. Visit That Fish Blog for more information on Tangs and Surgeonfish and other aquarium-related topics from our marine biologists and aquatic staff. This is a Restricted item and is not covered by our Arrive Alive 5-Day Guarantee. Please visit the Guarantee Policy and Restricted Species webpages for more information.

Acanthurus leucosternon "Powder Blue Tang" - Small

Fri, 13 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The Powder Blue Tang ( Acanthurus leucosternon ) gets its name from its light blue body color. The head is black and the dorsal fin and base of the tail are yellow. The chest area underneath the mouth is white and the tail is also white with black on the edge and base. Tangs and Surgeonfish are some of the most popular and common fish found in the aquarium trade. This group includes several genuses that can be associated with the various common name groups although "Surgeonfish" and "Tang" are often used interchangeably: Acanthurus ("Surgeonfish"), Naso ("Unicorn Tangs"), Ctenochaetus ("Bristletooth Tangs") and Zebrasoma ("Tangs"). They are found in almost every tropical oceans and in almost every color and pattern. The common names ???? 1/2surgeonfish???? 1/2 or "doctorfish" comes from the tiny scalpel-like spine at the base of the fish's tail. They use this spine as defense and will extend the spine if threatened. You may witness the tang shimmying up against another tang or fish; this is a sign of aggression as they may be using this spine to ward off the other fish. Always use caution when handling or netting a tang since this spine can become caught or cause injuries. Tangs and Surgeonfish are omnivores but a large part of the diet of most species consists of algae and plant matter. Tangs should also be given some meaty food to round out their diet. However, tangs that are fed primarily meaty foods over a long period of time are more likely to suffer from head and lateral line erosion (HLLE). HLLE disease in the short run is not fatal, but over time if the disease continues to progress the fish will stop eating and become lethargic and susceptible to other infections which may eventually contribute to its demise. The best treatment is prevention; maintain excellent water quality and feed a rich and varied diet. Supplementing with a multivitamin (A, D, E, B complex, and Iodine) may also help prevent further erosion. Tangs are generally community fish and get along with most other tankmates. Most do not bother corals and can actually help keep nuisance algae trimmed and under control, especially "Bristletooth Tangs" from the Ctenochaetus genus. Tangs may get territorial and aggressive towards similar tangs, so always use caution when keeping these fish together or with other fish that have a similar body shape or coloration. Visit That Fish Blog for more information on Tangs and Surgeonfish and other aquarium-related topics from our marine biologists and aquatic staff. This is a Restricted item and is not covered by our Arrive Alive 5-Day Guarantee. Please visit the Guarantee Policy and Restricted Species webpages for more information.

Turbinaria peltata "Green Pagoda Coral" - Medium

Thu, 12 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Turbinaria peltata "Green Pagoda Coral" - Medium Pagoda Corals ( Turbinaria peltata ) exist in a variety of shapes and colors. Most common colors are green and brown with other variations of these colors showing up occasionally. Shape is highly variable, as this coral will adapt to whatever space it has available, and is found in many different locations. Colonies under higher light will generally grow in a more "tightly rolled" or closed cup while lower-light colonies tend to be flatter. Pagoda Corals ( Turbinaria peltata ) are in the same genus as other Scroll Corals ( Turbinaria sp. ). However, they typically have a much different morphology. Scroll Corals will have a very delicate skeletal structure and many small polyps, where Pagoda Corals will have a more substantial skeleton with fewer, larger polyps. They are relatively hardy corals and are recommended for aquarists of all levels. Place this coral in medium to high light and medium to high water movement. When positioning the coral in the aquarium be sure that it is lying in a way so as not to collect debris on the surface. If debris collects and begins to decay it can easily damage or destroy the coral by causing an infection. In adding to using the lighting to product food through the algae in its tissue, this coral will also feed on meaty foods like brine shrimp, plankton, Cyclopeeze and similar items. It extends feeding tentacles during the day but can take days to a few weeks to extend their tentacles after being stressed or acclimated to a new environment.

Sympodium sp. "Blue Sympodium Coral"

Thu, 12 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Sympodium sp. "Blue Sympodium Coral" Sympodium is a fairly new coral to the aquarium trade and can be stunning in appearance. It is an encrusting soft coral with polyps that resemble Xenia , Anthellia , or Clove Polyps in apppearance. This Blue Sympodium has blue centers and green on the surrounding fringe.

Strombus luhuanus "Strawberry Conch"

Thu, 12 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The Strawberry Conch ( Strombus luhuanus ) has a mottled tan shell with a long, smooth trunk and short crown similar to that of the notorious and deadly Cone Snails. The inside surface of their shell is pinkish-orange, giving them another common name of "Orange Lip Conch". The True Conchs ( Strombus , Lambis , Tibia , Terebellum , Varicospira , and Eustrombus ) are algae eaters with some of the most iconic "seashell" shapes. They are usually found buried in the substrate, most often finer sand environments and may live in the open sandbed or on the reef. Some, especially Strombus and Lambis conchs, have well developed eyes that will watch the action around them. These eyes extend from under the lip of the shell and the left eye usually expends from a notch in the side of the shell. Conchs feed on algae and detritus in the aquarium. They need a large amount of plant matter in their diet and may starve if out-competed for food or if there is not enough algae in the aquarium to support them. Since most conchs - especially larger, mature snails - have large openings, it is best not to keep them in a tank with potential predators like some fish and hermit crabs. Conchs move using their powerful foot to propel themselves. When not buried in the substrate or when threatened, they can appear to hop over the bottom.

Platygyra sp. "Maze Brain Frag"

Thu, 12 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Platygyra sp. "Maze Brain Frag" Named for its unique patternation, the Maze Brain Coral ( Platygyra sp. ) is a relatively hardy coral. The color of Maze Brain can range from green to purple. Colonies are usually round and boulder-like in shape but encrusting forms may be found. The Maze Brain has long sweeper tentacles which may sting neighboring corals. It can be fed zooplankton or phytoplankton and greatly benefits from supplemental trace elements including calcium. Its lighting requirements can vary but brighter-colored colonies typically need higher light, and colonies under lower light need more supplemental feedings. Water flow should be moderate to high.

Montipora digitata "Orange Velvet Finger Coral Frag" - Medium

Thu, 12 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Montipora digitata "Orange Velvet Finger Coral Frag" - Medium Montipora digitata has a branching growth habit, as opposed to capricornis that grows in a plate shape. Digitata is most commonly brown or green, but purple, pink, blue red and orange variants are becoming increasingly available. Montipora corals are found in many types of reef environments. They can form branchy colonies in deeper waters or flat encrusting plates in shallow, high energy environments. Many colors can also be found in this huge family. As home propogation becomes more popular, exotic color combinations are making their way into the trade alongside solid purple, green, brown, yellow and red colonies. Since montipora is found in many different environments, its needs vary between colonies. Generally speaking, they tend to prefer high lighting and water movement, especially vividly colored colonies. They will tolerate lower lighting, but tend to become more brown or dark green in color.

Montipora capricornis "Red Vase Coral Frag" - Small (Jason Fox)

Thu, 12 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Red Capricornis frags are approximately 1-1.5" and mounted when shipped. Montipora capricornis is desired for its plate-like growth habits, and the various bright colors of its tissues. These corals grow quickly under favorable water conditions and prefer moderate to high lighting and moderate flow. Pristine water quality should be maintained if attempting reef organisms.

Montipora capricornis "Green Vase Coral Frag"

Thu, 12 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Montipora capricornis "Green Vase Coral Frag" Montipora capricornis generally grows in flat or curved plate-like formations. Colonies can be a solid color or can have polyps that are a different color from the base colony. It has a fast growth rate and pieces can easily be attached to new bases for propagation. Montipora corals are found in many types of reef environments. They can form branchy colonies in deeper waters or flat encrusting plates in shallow, high energy environments. Many colors can also be found in this huge family. As home propogation becomes more popular, exotic color combinations are making their way into the trade alongside solid purple, green, brown, yellow and red colonies. Since montipora is found in many different environments, its needs vary between colonies. Generally speaking, they tend to prefer high lighting and water movement, especially vividly colored colonies. They will tolerate lower lighting, but tend to become more brown or dark green in color.

Lobophytum sp. "Green Devil's Hand Coral" - Medium

Thu, 12 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Lobophytum sp. "Green Devil's Hand Coral" - Medium Devil's Hand Coral ( Lobophytum sp. ) is a soft coral with a fleshy base and short, stubby tentacles. It is sometimes called the Lobed Leather Coral and is sometimes confused with the Toadstool Leathers ( Sarcophyton sp. ). Most colonies are a shade of tan or purple, but brightly colored colonies are occasionally available. Lobophytum corals need moderate to high lighting to support the zooxanthallae algae that lives in its tissue and from which it gets much of its food. This coral also filter-feeds and can benefit from plankton supplements and small foods. It should be places in an area with moderate to high flow to help carry away wastes and to help the coral with its occasional shedding. Like most other leather corals, Lobophytum corals can release a toxin that irritates its neighbors and is considered moderately aggressive. Give this coral plenty of space to spread out without bothering the corals around it. This coral is an excellent choice for an aquarist interesting in home coral propagation and "fragging". It can easily be separated into smaller colonies and moved around the tank or traded with other aquarists.

Lobophyllia sp. "Pink Tooth Coral" - Medium

Thu, 12 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Tooth Corals ( Lobophyllia sp. ) have heavy, rigid skeletons and thick, fleshy polyp heads. Coloration varies greatly; they can be green, red, brown, pink, and other colors, and in any combination of colors. Some colonies may be striped or have contrasting colors to the rims and centers of each polyp. The skeleton beneath the polyp heads is very sharp and care must be taken not to damage the fleshy skin over laying the skeleton as this may cause infections. Securing the coral will go a long way in ensuring the safety of the coral. Tooth Corals can adapt to a wide range of lighting conditions, if acclimated with care, and will also accept meaty foods. They feed with sweeper tentacles, primarily at night. Moderate water flow is best. Tooth Corals are hardy and require low maintenence.

Lobophyllia sp. "Branching Orange Tooth Coral"

Thu, 12 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Lobophyllia sp. "Branching Orange Tooth Coral" Tooth Corals ( Lobophyllia sp. ) have heavy, rigid skeletons and thick, fleshy polyp heads. Coloration varies greatly; they can be green, red, brown, pink, and other colors, and in any combination of colors. Some colonies may be striped or have contrasting colors to the rims and centers of each polyp. The skeleton beneath the polyp heads is very sharp and care must be taken not to damage the fleshy skin over laying the skeleton as this may cause infections. Securing the coral will go a long way in ensuring the safety of the coral. Tooth Corals can adapt to a wide range of lighting conditions, if acclimated with care, and will also accept meaty foods. They feed with sweeper tentacles, primarily at night. Moderate water flow is best. Tooth Corals are hardy and require low maintenence.

Goniopora sp. "Electric Green Flower Pot Coral" - Medium

Thu, 12 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Goniopora sp. "Electric Green Flower Pot Coral" - Medium Flower Pot Corals are tempting, spectacular corals in the aquarium. However, their long term survival is dependent on the right conditions. Only the advanced reef aquarist should attempt keeping this species of coral. Expanded, this coral forms a ball of large tentacles, looking much like a blooming bunch of flowers. Most commonly found in shades of green or tan, rare specimens are found in red and purple. Branching structures are also sometimes found with the colonies on the ends of thick, bulbous branches. Goniopora sp. corals are very closely related to another group of corals, Alveopora sp. , with the primary difference being tentacle length and the number of fringes around the rim of each tentacle. Goniopora sp. corals usually have longer tentacles and 24 fringes around each rim while Alveopora sp. only has 12. Alveopora sp. also usually has a more opaque color than the more translucent Goniopora sp. . Both may be known as Flower Pot Corals. Place this coral in medium to high light and medium water movement. Make sure that the coral is secure, as it is prone to falling when expanded. Occassionally, a clownfish may attempt to host in Goniopora sp. corals since their appearance in the water resembles an anemone. This often results in damage to or even loss of the coral since the clownfish's actions often damage the flesh of the coral where it is rubbed against the coral's skeleton.

Euphyllia parancora "Branching Hammer Coral" - Large

Thu, 12 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Euphyllia parancora "Branching Hammer Coral" - Large Hammer corals get their name from unique hammer or horseshoe shaped tips on the tentacles that they use to filter feed and as a home for its symbiotic zooxanthallae algae. It is one of the easier large-polyp hard corals that many aquarists "graduate" to after polyps and mushrooms. Branching Hammer corals ( Euphyllia parancora ) have distinctly branched skeletons, with well formed heads of polyps while Wall Hammer Corals ( Euphyllia ancora ) have a more solid structure that grows in a wall or boulder-like shape. When fully extended, the Hammer coral can resemble an anemone and a clownfish may sometimes attempt to host in the tentacles and may damage the coral. The tentacles on Hammer Coral colonies can range anywhere from tan or golden yellow to more rare colonies of bright green. These corals are aggressive in that the tentactles can extend several inches and carry a powerful sting. Do not allow these corals to come in contact with other corals, as they can easily kill weaker stinging specimens. Hammer Corals should be oriented so that the tissue of the coral is facing the light, provide medium to strong lighting, and random water movement. Some form of invertebrate food is recommended to be added once or twice a week.

Euphyllia divisa "Green Frogspawn Frag" (Jason Fox)

Thu, 12 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Euphyllia divisa "Green Frogspawn Frag" (Jason Fox) Frogspawn corals get their name from the multi-tipped tentacles that they have. The tentacles give the appearance of a mass of frog eggs before hatching. Frogspawn are aggressive because their tentacles can extend several inches and have a powerful sting. Make sure that they are given enough room to move in the current without contacting other specimens in the aquarium. Place in medium to high light, with moderate water movement. Invertebrate food should be fed to these corals once or twice a week depending on the bio load in the aquarium. Jason Fox is well known within the coral enthusiast world as one of the premier coral farmers in the U.S.A. Jason has spent years accumulating a spectacular collection of corals in his farm, TFP is proud to offer some of Jason's signature corals as part of our coral frag collection.

Euphyllia divisa "Green Branching Frogspawn Coral" - Large

Thu, 12 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Euphyllia divisa "Green Branching Frogspawn Coral" - Large Frogspawn corals get their name from the multi-tipped tentacles that they have. The tentacles give the appearance of a mass of frog eggs before hatching. Frogspawn are aggressive because their tentacles can extend several inches and have a powerful sting. Make sure that they are given enough room to move in the current without contacting other specimens in the aquarium. Place in medium to high light, with moderate water movement. Invertebrate food should be fed to these corals once or twice a week depending on the bio load in the aquarium.

Echinophyllia sp. "Cornbread Bubblegum Monster Chalice Frag" (Jason Fox)

Thu, 12 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Echinophyllia sp. "Cornbread Bubblegum Monster Chalice Frag" (Jason Fox) Echinophyllia is a colorful coral with a heavy tissue matter over its skeleton, and is easy to maintain in a home aquarium. It is a hardy species that will grow in almost any type of light environment but will grow best and have the brightest colors under moderate to high lighting. Caution should be taken when placing Echinophyllia near other corals as it has long sweeper tentacles that may sting them. Echinophyllia can easily be fed meaty foods such as mysis or krill, but will only feed at night. Jason Fox is well known within the coral enthusiast world as one of the premier coral farmers in the U.S.A. Jason has spent years accumulating a spectacular collection of corals in his farm, TFP is proud to offer some of Jason's signature corals as part of our coral frag collection.

Duncanopsamma axifugia "Cultured Whisker Coral Frag" (Jason Fox)

Thu, 12 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Duncanopsamma axifugia "Cultured Whisker Coral Frag" (Jason Fox) These polyps are gaining a reputation as some of the fastest to split and expand the colony. High light will keep the colors strong, but supplemental feedings with foods up to the size of brine shrimp is recommended. Jason Fox is well known within the coral enthusiast world as one of the premier coral farmers in the U.S.A. Jason has spent years accumulating a spectacular collection of corals in his farm, TFP is proud to offer some of Jason's signature corals as part of our coral frag collection.

Catalaphyllia jardinei "Elegance Coral" - Medium/Large

Thu, 12 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Zebrasoma desjardinii "Red Sea Sailfin Tang" - Small/Medium

Tue, 10 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Zebrasoma desjardinii "Red Sea Sailfin Tang" - Small/Medium The Red Sea Sailfin Tang ( Zebrasoma desjardinii ) closely resembles but has a slightly differently coloration than its Pacific cousin, Z. veliferum . It has white and gray-brown vertical bars that are decorated with orange lines and dots on the belly. There are also dots on the tail, face, and gill area. The most notable feature is the high, grey-banded, sail-like dorsal fin. The tail is dark with light spots, the most discernable feature from their Pacific cousins who have striped tails. Juveniles may have a considerable amount of yellow coloration. This species is found primarily in the Red Sea but can be found in a few other areas of the Indian Ocean as well. Tangs and Surgeonfish are some of the most popular and common fish found in the aquarium trade. This group includes several genuses that can be associated with the various common name groups although "Surgeonfish" and "Tang" are often used interchangeably: Acanthurus ("Surgeonfish"), Naso ("Unicorn Tangs"), Ctenochaetus ("Bristletooth Tangs") and Zebrasoma ("Tangs"). They are found in almost every tropical oceans and in almost every color and pattern. The common names ???? 1/2surgeonfish???? 1/2 or "doctorfish" comes from the tiny scalpel-like spine at the base of the fish's tail. They use this spine as defense and will extend the spine if threatened. You may witness the tang shimmying up against another tang or fish; this is a sign of aggression as they may be using this spine to ward off the other fish. Always use caution when handling or netting a tang since this spine can become caught or cause injuries. Tangs and Surgeonfish are omnivores but a large part of the diet of most species consists of algae and plant matter. Tangs should also be given some meaty food to round out their diet. However, tangs that are fed primarily meaty foods over a long period of time are more likely to suffer from head and lateral line erosion (HLLE). HLLE disease in the short run is not fatal, but over time if the disease continues to progress the fish will stop eating and become lethargic and susceptible to other infections which may eventually contribute to its demise. The best treatment is prevention; maintain excellent water quality and feed a rich and varied diet. Supplementing with a multivitamin (A, D, E, B complex, and Iodine) may also help prevent further erosion. Tangs are generally community fish and get along with most other tankmates. Most do not bother corals and can actually help keep nuisance algae trimmed and under control, especially "Bristletooth Tangs" from the Ctenochaetus genus. Tangs may get territorial and aggressive towards similar tangs, so always use caution when keeping these fish together or with other fish that have a similar body shape or coloration. Visit That Fish Blog for more information on Tangs and Surgeonfish and other aquarium-related topics from our marine biologists and aquatic staff.

Taenianotus triacanthus "Brown Leaf Scorpionfish"

Tue, 10 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The Leaf Scorpionfish ( Taenianotus triacanthus ) has a thin body with a high, prominent dorsal fin, and frilly appendages above the eyes. They can be brown, yellow, red and a number of other variations, thought yellow and brown are the most common. The name "leaffish" come from both their body shape and their behavior of sitting on the bottom and swaying slightly in the current like a leaf in a light breeze. Lionfish and Scorpionfish are perhaps best known for the venomous spines in their dorsal and pectoral fins. The sharp spines are used by the fish to ward off predators. While special consideration should be given before placing one of these predators in your home aqaurium, they are some of the most stunning and desired fish in the aquarium trade. Fish in this family vary greatly in appearance, even between individuals of the same species. Many lionfish and scorpionfish are colored and shaped to blend in with rockwork, sponges, algae and other parts of the reefs they inhabit. These fish are voracious predators. Most species will wait for potential prey to come close before snatching it for a meal. Some, like the popular Volitan Lionfish, may actively stalk their prey. Lionfish and Scorpionfish can be fed a variety of frozen and prepared meaty foods like shrimp, clams, scallops, krill and other similar foods, but some may need live food like small feeder fish or ghost shrimp to trigger a feeding response. Those that dwell in rock or on the bottom of the aquarium may need to be target fed with tongs or a feeding stick to make sure they get adequate amounts of food. These fish are generally safe in reef aquariums as they do not eat corals or polyps, but take extra care to know where the fish is located as they may blend in very well with the rocks and corals. Do not keep these fish with shrimp, crabs or fish small enough to be eaten. The venomous spines of lionfish and other scorpionfish are used exclusively for defense. The potency of the venom varies by species, and effects can range from a strong irritation to very painful or even life-threatening reaction. Most stings in the aquarium happen accidentally, a result of the aquarist making contact with the spines while maintaining the tank. Feeding any animals in the tank by hand can increase the risk of being stung and is not recommended . Always be aware of where your lionfish or scorpionfish is when working in your aquarium, and seek medical attention immediately if a sting should occur. Visit That Fish Blog for more information from our on-staff marine biologists on Lionfish, Scorpionfish and other aquarium-related topics, including the trend of Lionfish as an Invasive Species in the Caribbean .

Exallias brevis "Leopard Blenny"

Tue, 10 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The Leopard Blenny ( Exallias brevis ) is not commonly seen in the aquarium trade. It has a stout body with a spectacular brown and white honeycomb pattern, and yellow tint in the fins. This blenny is a generally community fish but, unlike most other blennies, it is not reef safe . They naturally feed heavily on stony coral polyps in the wild and should be provided with corals to feed on in the home aquarium. Many different species and varieties of blennies enter the aquarium trade regularly. Some of the more commonly encountered genuses are Atrosalarias (the Sailfin Blennies), Blenniella (Rockskipper or Combtooth Blennies), Ecsenius (often small and flat-faced), Meiacanthus (the notorious fangtooth blennies), and Salarias (the popular algae-eating Lawnmower Blennies). Many blennies may eat some algae growing in the aquarium like the nuisance hair algae, or ornamental macroalgae like Caulerpa. Blennies will also accept many other types of food like pellets, frozen formulas, brine shrimp and others. Blennies can be kept with most other community tankmates like damsels, clownfish and angels but they may become territorial with time and will defend against trespassers. Blennies typically do not tolerate others of the same species except in very large aquariums with enough territory to accommodate their need for space. They are safe for reef aquariums and will not harm most invertebrates, with the possible exception of small crustaceans like Sexy Shrimp. They spend most of the time on or around the bottom, or perching in the rockwork of the aquarium.

Dendrochirus brachypterus "Shortfin Dwarf Lionfish" - Large

Tue, 10 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The Shortfin Dwarf Lionfish ( Dendrochirus brachypterus ) is also commonly known as the "Fuzzy Dwarf Lionfish". It has fan-shaped, banded pectoral fins that lack the long filaments of other lions. They vary in color from brown and white to rare variants of red or bright yellow. These lions are nocturnal and will typically hide during the day and emerge at night to feed. Lionfish and Scorpionfish are perhaps best known for the venomous spines in their dorsal and pectoral fins. The sharp spines are used by the fish to ward off predators. While special consideration should be given before placing one of these predators in your home aqaurium, they are some of the most stunning and desired fish in the aquarium trade. Fish in this family vary greatly in appearance, even between individuals of the same species. Many lionfish and scorpionfish are colored and shaped to blend in with rockwork, sponges, algae and other parts of the reefs they inhabit. These fish are voracious predators. Most species will wait for potential prey to come close before snatching it for a meal. Some, like the popular Volitan Lionfish, may actively stalk their prey. Lionfish and Scorpionfish can be fed a variety of frozen and prepared meaty foods like shrimp, clams, scallops, krill and other similar foods, but some may need live food like small feeder fish or ghost shrimp to trigger a feeding response. Those that dwell in rock or on the bottom of the aquarium may need to be target fed with tongs or a feeding stick to make sure they get adequate amounts of food. These fish are generally safe in reef aquariums as they do not eat corals or polyps, but take extra care to know where the fish is located as they may blend in very well with the rocks and corals. Do not keep these fish with shrimp, crabs or fish small enough to be eaten. The venomous spines of lionfish and other scorpionfish are used exclusively for defense. The potency of the venom varies by species, and effects can range from a strong irritation to very painful or even life-threatening reaction. Most stings in the aquarium happen accidentally, a result of the aquarist making contact with the spines while maintaining the tank. Feeding any animals in the tank by hand can increase the risk of being stung and is not recommended . Always be aware of where your lionfish or scorpionfish is when working in your aquarium, and seek medical attention immediately if a sting should occur. Visit That Fish Blog for more information from our on-staff marine biologists on Lionfish, Scorpionfish and other aquarium-related topics, including the trend of Lionfish as an Invasive Species in the Caribbean .

Synchiropus ocellatus "Ocellated Dragonet" - Large

Fri, 06 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Ocellated Dragonets ( Synchiropus ocellatus ) are popularly known as Scooter Blennies. They have a brown or reddish-brown body with mottled white and tan blotches and small bright blue spots on the head. Males have an elongated dorsal fin. Dragonets are bottom-dwelling fish with colorations that often resemble the substrate they are found around. They have flattened bodies with pointed faces designed for picking food like small crustaceans, copepods, amphipods and similar prey out of rockwork. They often have difficulty adapting to prepared food in the aquarium and should only be kept int well established tanks with lots of live rock and a healthy, populated sandbed to feed on. Dragonets are generally peaceful, docile fish. They move in short "scooting" motions and can be terrorized by more aggressive or territorial tankmates. They are ideal for reef aquariums as they will not bother corals or larger inverts. Visit That Fish Blog for more information from our marine biologists on Dragonet feeding and care and many other aquarium-related topics!

Symphysodon aequifasciatus "Red Turquoise Discus" - Medium

Fri, 06 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Symphysodon aequifasciatus "Red Fuji Discus"

Fri, 06 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Symphysodon aequifasciatus "Red Fuji Discus" Discus are considered the Kings of the Freshwater fish! These beautiful, interestingly shaped fish can be quite rewarding when you take the time to care for them properly. Discus do best in groups. They also require pristine water conditions, with relatively low hardness, low pH, and high temperature. Be prepared to pay close attention to your water quality and the condition of your discus. Provide about 8-10 gallons of water per adult discus, starting with at least a 45 gallon aquarium. They also prefer a tall tank because of their body shape and activity. Your discus would do best if they are in a tank where there is low-traffic and no loud noises. Discus do well in a well-planted tank with driftwood and plenty of cover. They are quite docile and skittish and require a place to retreat and feel safe if necessary. They will not compete well for food, so be sure tankmates are equally as docile. Fast swimming fish can stress discus with their activity. Try Cardinal tetras, Rummy-nose tetras, rams, cory cats, and plecos that stay small. Feed your discus rich, meaty foods like worms and other larvae, beefheart, and a quality flake or small pellet. Increase the protein intake if you would like to breed your discus. Discus make rather good parents. They both protect the eggs and young, and they actually secrete a mucous that the fry feeds on during the very first few weeks that they are free-swimming. If you do your best to give your discus the conditions they want, they will reward you with many years of brilliant color and beauty, and plenty of personality, too! This is a Restricted item and is not covered by our Arrive Alive 5-Day Guarantee. Please visit the Guarantee Policy and Restricted Species webpages for more information.

Steatocranus casuarius "Buffalo Head Cichlid" - Small

Fri, 06 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Male Steatocranus grow a bump on their head, contributing to its common name, the Buffalo Head, or Blockhead Cichlid. Coloration ranges from silver to gray with slight iridescent coloration on the flanks. This fish is rather timid and shy and will typically find a favorite spot and remain in or near that locale. Males can be aggressive with each other, and territoriality could cause minor aggression towards other tankmates as well. Tankmates can range from slightly aggressive cichlids to peaceful barbs, rainbows, and other similar fish. This fish spends most of its time on the bottom, and it likes sandy substrate and lots of water movement. Decor can consist of rock caves, driftwood, and plants. This fish will accept a wide variety of foods including frozen, flake, and pellet.

Pterygoplichthys scrophus "Rhino Pleco"

Fri, 06 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The Rhino Pleco, also referred to in the trade as the Chocolate Pleco is native to the upper Amazon basin in South America. It is not a common offering in the aquarium trade, but can be distinguished by a hump on the snout and by chocolate brown color on the body, and a yellow-orange edge on the top edge of the tail. These plecos are non aggressive and will not harm other active fish. They are omnivores and must be supplied with drift wood, vegetative matter and worms or meaty pellets for a varied diet. They grow to 10-11 inches in length and should not be housed in an aquarium of less than 55 gallons.

Pterois volitans "Volitan Lionfish" - Medium

Fri, 06 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The Volitan Lionfish ( Pterois volitans ) is one of the most popular and well known aquarium scorpionfish. It has a white body with reddish-brown or black vertical stripes. Color is highly variable from specimen to specimen. The spiny rays of the fins are very long and flowing. The dorsal fin has seven rigid, venomous spines. Although native to the Indo-Pacific, this species has become an establish and destructive invasive species in the Caribbean, threatening local fish populations. Lionfish and Scorpionfish are perhaps best known for the venomous spines in their dorsal and pectoral fins. The sharp spines are used by the fish to ward off predators. While special consideration should be given before placing one of these predators in your home aqaurium, they are some of the most stunning and desired fish in the aquarium trade. Fish in this family vary greatly in appearance, even between individuals of the same species. Many lionfish and scorpionfish are colored and shaped to blend in with rockwork, sponges, algae and other parts of the reefs they inhabit. These fish are voracious predators. Most species will wait for potential prey to come close before snatching it for a meal. Some, like the popular Volitan Lionfish, may actively stalk their prey. Lionfish and Scorpionfish can be fed a variety of frozen and prepared meaty foods like shrimp, clams, scallops, krill and other similar foods, but some may need live food like small feeder fish or ghost shrimp to trigger a feeding response. Those that dwell in rock or on the bottom of the aquarium may need to be target fed with tongs or a feeding stick to make sure they get adequate amounts of food. These fish are generally safe in reef aquariums as they do not eat corals or polyps, but take extra care to know where the fish is located as they may blend in very well with the rocks and corals. Do not keep these fish with shrimp, crabs or fish small enough to be eaten. The venomous spines of lionfish and other scorpionfish are used exclusively for defense. The potency of the venom varies by species, and effects can range from a strong irritation to very painful or even life-threatening reaction. Most stings in the aquarium happen accidentally, a result of the aquarist making contact with the spines while maintaining the tank. Feeding any animals in the tank by hand can increase the risk of being stung and is not recommended . Always be aware of where your lionfish or scorpionfish is when working in your aquarium, and seek medical attention immediately if a sting should occur. Visit That Fish Blog for more information from our on-staff marine biologists on Lionfish, Scorpionfish and other aquarium-related topics, including the trend of Lionfish as an Invasive Species in the Caribbean .

Pteroidichthys amboinensis "Ambon Scorpionfish"

Fri, 06 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The Ambon Scorpionfish ( Pteroidichthys amboinensis ) is typically various shades of browns, greens, and reds, though coloration of this species is highly variable and tends to match the algae in the area it was collected from. Its fins are very feathery and they have two large "antennae" above its eyes. Lionfish and Scorpionfish are perhaps best known for the venomous spines in their dorsal and pectoral fins. The sharp spines are used by the fish to ward off predators. While special consideration should be given before placing one of these predators in your home aqaurium, they are some of the most stunning and desired fish in the aquarium trade. Fish in this family vary greatly in appearance, even between individuals of the same species. Many lionfish and scorpionfish are colored and shaped to blend in with rockwork, sponges, algae and other parts of the reefs they inhabit. These fish are voracious predators. Most species will wait for potential prey to come close before snatching it for a meal. Some, like the popular Volitan Lionfish, may actively stalk their prey. Lionfish and Scorpionfish can be fed a variety of frozen and prepared meaty foods like shrimp, clams, scallops, krill and other similar foods, but some may need live food like small feeder fish or ghost shrimp to trigger a feeding response. Those that dwell in rock or on the bottom of the aquarium may need to be target fed with tongs or a feeding stick to make sure they get adequate amounts of food. These fish are generally safe in reef aquariums as they do not eat corals or polyps, but take extra care to know where the fish is located as they may blend in very well with the rocks and corals. Do not keep these fish with shrimp, crabs or fish small enough to be eaten. The venomous spines of lionfish and other scorpionfish are used exclusively for defense. The potency of the venom varies by species, and effects can range from a strong irritation to very painful or even life-threatening reaction. Most stings in the aquarium happen accidentally, a result of the aquarist making contact with the spines while maintaining the tank. Feeding any animals in the tank by hand can increase the risk of being stung and is not recommended . Always be aware of where your lionfish or scorpionfish is when working in your aquarium, and seek medical attention immediately if a sting should occur. Visit That Fish Blog for more information from our on-staff marine biologists on Lionfish, Scorpionfish and other aquarium-related topics, including the trend of Lionfish as an Invasive Species in the Caribbean .

Pomacanthus navarchus "Majestic Angel" - Small Adult

Fri, 06 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Pomacanthus imperator "Emperor Angel" - Small Adult

Fri, 06 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The adult Emperor Angel ( Pomacanthus imperator ) has a yellow body crossed with diagonal blue lines. The tail is yellow and a small area around the mouth is white. A dark blue colored area extends along the bottom of the fish and up to the back of the gill cover. A dark blue and black bar covers the eye. Juvenile Emperor Angelfish are dark blue with concentric white lines that are curved and form a circle towards the rear of the fish. Juveniles are very similar to the Koran Angel ( P. semicirculatus ) but the white bars in the juvenile Koran Angel do not form a complete circle. Numerous other juvenile angelfish also have a black, blue and white striped pattern. Although the Emperor Angelfish can reach 15" in the wild they usually only reach about 12" in captivity. The larger angelfish available in the aquarium trade include those from the genera Apolemichthys , Chaetodontoplus , Holacanthus , Pomacanthus , and Pygoplites . Of these, Apolemichthys and Chaetodontoplus are generally the smallest and are sometimes considered "pygmy angels" compared to the much larger Holacanthus and Pomacanthus angels. The Regal Angelfish, Pygoplites diacanthus is the only fish in the Pygoplites genus. Juveniles and adults among these angels usually have very different appearances and, in the wild, usually live in harems with dominant males controlling a group of females.The color change in angels can be triggered by size, age or a change in social structure. Angels should not be kept with other large angels in the home aquarium to avoid territorial conflicts. Occasionally, two angels may tolerate one another in a very large aquarium if they have very different coloration and appearance, but is not typically recommended. Suitable tankmates for most large marine angels would be larger community fish like tangs, triggers, groupers, some damsels, butterflies and similar fish. More shy and passive angels can be kept with smaller, more docile tankmates. Be sure to take the adult size of the angelfish into consideration when choosing an angel for an aquarium as many can grow very large (albeit slowly) and need tankmates and an environment that can accommodate them. All angels have cheekspines at the edge of their gill cover and in the dorsal fin. Use caution when handling and avoid using a net that they may become stuck or tangled in. The diet of large angels generally consists of meaty foods, algaes, and marine sponge. Many frozen angel formulas and flakes may have extra sponge meal, and live sponges can be purchased to supplement their diet. These angels are not reef safe and have been known to nip at or eat some corals, sponges, and clam mantles. Some leather corals and anemones may be safe with larger angelfish but is not generally recommended. Visit That Fish Blog for an Overview on Natural History and Care of Marine Angelfishes as well as a Species Profile on the Queen Angelfish and more from our marine biologists.

Plerogyra sp. "Bubble Coral" - Medium/Large

Fri, 06 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Paracentropogon rubripinnis "Redfin Waspfish" - XSmall

Fri, 06 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The Redfin Waspfish ( Paracentropogon rubripinnis , also known as the Dwarf Rooster Waspfish) is a small colorful scorpionfish. They have a mottled brown coloration with red on the edges of their fins. The dorsal fin is high like the crest on a rooster and the waspfish will stick it up when defensive or threatened. The dorsal spines are venomous. Lionfish and Scorpionfish are perhaps best known for the venomous spines in their dorsal and pectoral fins. The sharp spines are used by the fish to ward off predators. While special consideration should be given before placing one of these predators in your home aqaurium, they are some of the most stunning and desired fish in the aquarium trade. Fish in this family vary greatly in appearance, even between individuals of the same species. Many lionfish and scorpionfish are colored and shaped to blend in with rockwork, sponges, algae and other parts of the reefs they inhabit. These fish are voracious predators. Most species will wait for potential prey to come close before snatching it for a meal. Some, like the popular Volitan Lionfish, may actively stalk their prey. Lionfish and Scorpionfish can be fed a variety of frozen and prepared meaty foods like shrimp, clams, scallops, krill and other similar foods, but some may need live food like small feeder fish or ghost shrimp to trigger a feeding response. Those that dwell in rock or on the bottom of the aquarium may need to be target fed with tongs or a feeding stick to make sure they get adequate amounts of food. These fish are generally safe in reef aquariums as they do not eat corals or polyps, but take extra care to know where the fish is located as they may blend in very well with the rocks and corals. Do not keep these fish with shrimp, crabs or fish small enough to be eaten. The venomous spines of lionfish and other scorpionfish are used exclusively for defense. The potency of the venom varies by species, and effects can range from a strong irritation to very painful or even life-threatening reaction. Most stings in the aquarium happen accidentally, a result of the aquarist making contact with the spines while maintaining the tank. Feeding any animals in the tank by hand can increase the risk of being stung and is not recommended . Always be aware of where your lionfish or scorpionfish is when working in your aquarium, and seek medical attention immediately if a sting should occur. Visit That Fish Blog for more information from our on-staff marine biologists on Lionfish, Scorpionfish and other aquarium-related topics, including the trend of Lionfish as an Invasive Species in the Caribbean .

Nannacara anomala "Golden Dwarf Cichlid"

Fri, 06 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The Golden Dwarf Cichlid is native to flooded savannas of West Africa. They do not have bold coloration like some of the other westies, but they are beautiful in their own right. They have golden tan or brown coloration with golden green iridescence across their flanks. Their fins are wide and impressive. These little cichlids are bold especially when breeding. They are community safe for the most part, but may show some aggression when spawning or brooding fry. They enjoy plenty of cover in the tank including plants and caves or driftwood. Nannacara are omnivores and will eat cichlid flake or pellet as well as meaty frozen treats.

Leporacanthicus galaxias (L029) "Galaxy Pleco" - Medium

Fri, 06 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Leporacanthicus galaxias (L029) "Galaxy Pleco" - Medium The Galaxy Pleco ( Leporacanthicus galaxias , L029) has a dark body with white dots that become more yellow as they age. They have a large front tooth that is thought to be used for scraping algae. The Vampire Pleco (L007) is a very similar species that some debate may be a regional variant of this pleco. Galaxy Plecos are identified by having a longer snout, smaller spots and a lower dorsal fin while the Vampire Pleco has a shorter snout, larger spots and a higher more sail-like dorsal. These plecos are generally peaceful, although they are territorial in the lower levels of the aquarium. Thus, they will often act aggressively toward other catfish and bottom-feeders if there is not enough territory with barriers to visibility for all of them. They are best kept one per tank unless the aquarium is at least over 125 gallons, and should be kept with few bottom-dwelling tankmates. Provide many hiding places, as this fish will choose an area and defend it vigorously from others that may also use them. Suitable hiding spots can be made using driftwood and rocks. These plecos are found in fast-flowing, well-oxygenated waters. For this reason, they require efficient water flow and filtration to stay healthy. They are easily stressed by poor water conditions, so frequent water changes are a must. They are omnivorous, and will feed on a vareity of algae, plant matter, small worms, larvae, and crustaceans. They are avid snail-eaters.They can also be fed sinking pellets as well as frozen meaty foods and fresh greens.

Gnathonemus petersii "Elephantnose Fish"

Fri, 06 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The Elephant Nose is an interesting fish with a long appendage on its snout below the mouth that looks like an elephant's trunk. Its body is gray to black with a slender forked tail. The Elephant Nose is a nocturnal fish, hunting and feeding mostly at night. It uses its long snout to help it find worms, insects, larvae, and small crustaceans in the substrate. It is important to provide smooth-sided gravel or fine sand so that it does not injure itself when looking for food in this way. Elephant Noses will accept most small live foods, but can usually be trained to eat frozen foods and sometimes, sinking pellets. The Elephant Nose is able to produce a weak electric discharge that it uses in courtship and in locating prey. This fish is relatively peaceful toward other fish of similar size, but is territorial and aggressive with its own kind. For this reason they are best kept one per tank unless the aquarium is very large, about 200 gallons or more. Provide a heavily planted tank with soft, acidic water and subdued lighting. This provides natural hiding places and will help minimize stress. Elephant noses are sensitive fish, and are easily stressed by poor water quality. Frequent water changes are a must to keep this fish healthy. Use caution if it becomes necessary to add medications or other harsh chemicals to the tank as many of these products are harmful or fatal to the elephant nose. If using medications, read the instructions carefully to be sure that the product is safe for scale-less fish. It may be necessary to use a mild medication or use a product at half-strength. This is a Restricted item and is not covered by our Arrive Alive 5-Day Guarantee. Please visit the Guarantee Policy and Restricted Species webpages for more information.

Epalzeorhynchos frenatus "Rainbow Shark"

Fri, 06 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The Rainbow Shark is a gray fish with bright red fins. Its snout is equipped with 2 short barbels. Though they are called sharks due to the shape of their body, Rainbow Sharks are only very distant relatives of true sharks. They are actually more closely related to barbs and loaches. They are peaceful community fish but can be aggressive towards other sharks. For this reason it is best to keep no more than one shark per every 30 gallons of water. They are sometimes shy and should have hiding places to take cover. Plants, rocks, and driftwood can be used to create great hiding places. Rainbow sharks are hardy and are not picky eaters. They scavenge for food in the substrate, and will also accept most sinking pellets and other prepared foods.

Curious Wormfish - Gunnellichthys curiosus

Fri, 06 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Curious Wormfish - Gunnellichthys curiosus The Curious Wormfish has a long, wormlike body that is blue with an orange stripe along each side. They hover above sand beds in pairs or solitarily.

Crenuchus spilurus "Sailfin Tetra"

Fri, 06 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The Sailfin Tetra or Sailfin Characin is a solitary and secretive species from South America. Unlike most tetras these fish are often alone instead of travelling in schools. The maost distinguishing feature is the elongated dorsal fin. This is a fast moving species whith a predatory nature, though its prey is not usually other fish, but small copepods, larvae and crustaceans. It will need a meaty diet in the aquarium and should not be housed with very small tankmates. If you are fortunate enough to have these fish spawn in captivity, you'll see that it is the male that tends the spawned eggs.

Corydoras pygmaeus "Pygmy Cory"

Fri, 06 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The Pygmy Cory is, as its name suggests, very much smaller than other Corydoras catfish. Females reach about one inch in length at maturity; males are slightly smaller and usually more streamlined. It is a grayish fish with a single black horizontal stripe that runs from the tip of the snout to the middle of the tail. Its tiny size makes it vulnerable to larger fish, so it should only be kept in tropical community aquariums inhabited by small to medium, peaceful fish. Cory cats are schooling fish, and should be kept in groups of at least 3 to 4 fish. They need a good amount of open swimming room on the bottom and the tank should be sparsely decorated. Temperature should be monitored closely as cory cats get easily stressed by cooler temperatures. Corydoras are peaceful and can be kept in most community and planted aquariums with fish like tetras, danios, rasboras, livebearers and rainbows. Provide broad-leaf plants and crevices under rocks or other ornaments for hiding places. They accept flake and small pellet foods as well as tablets, live or frozen worms, and brine shrimp.

Betta Treasures Bowl - Sea Horses - 1 Gallon

Fri, 06 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Enhance your betta with a Betta Treasures Bowl. The clear plastic bowl and unique resin stand adds beauty to any room.

Betta Treasures Bowl - Coral - 1 Gallon

Fri, 06 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Enhance your betta with a Betta Treasures Bowl. The clear plastic bowl and unique resin stand adds beauty to any room.

Agamyxis pectinifrons "Spotted Raphael Catfish"

Fri, 06 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The Spotted Raphael is also called a "talking catfish" because of its ablity to make buzzing and clicking sounds by rubbing its spines together. As its name suggests, this catfish is covered with spots. The spots are white and the rest of the body is black. Its body is covered with thick plates that act as armor. This catfish is nocturnal, and needs a dark hiding place in which to take refuge during the day. It is a scavenger and will eat most foods that it finds at the bottom of the tank. It is a peaceful fish and can be kept with most community species. It is also tolerant of its own kind and can be kept in small groups or singly. Due to its protective "armor", the Spotted Raphael Catfish can also be kept with small to medium sized more aggressive fish including many types of cichlids. Despite its passive nature, the spotted raphael may eat very tiny fish, such as young fry.

Tropheus moorii "Moliro Firecracker Red Moorii"

Thu, 05 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Tropheus are a unique-looking Tanganyikan, with a rounded head and stout little bodies. T. moori come in over 40 different color variations. They darken and lighten according to their mood. Tropheus moori "Moliro" has a black and red-orange body with bright red accents in the fins and on the caudal peduncle. Tropheus are aggressive with each other. To keep them successfully, it is recommended you keep at least 10+ in one tank to disperse aggression. They require a lot of territorial space with rocks and other definite boundaries. These fish are almost completely herbivorous and nibble algae off of rocks in the wild. Feed them a veggie cichlid flake as well as spirulina. They also benefit from daily feedings of romaine lettuce or spinach. Stay away from soft foods such as brine shrimp or worms. Mysis or cyclopeeze are the only meaty foods recommended, and very sparingly. These fish are mouth brooders and females protect the fry and eggs in her mouth. If kept correctly, Tropheus are wonderful fish with fun personalities.

Spotfin Goby Cichlid - Tanganicodus irsacae

Thu, 05 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The Spotfin Goby Cichlid makes an interesting and unique addition to a cichlid community. They have a rounded snout and a small, stout body, only growing to about 3 inches. They are colored to blend against the subtrate in clear, swallow waters of the lake shore. Their bodies may appear dark or light gray with white speckles across the dorsal half and face and pale bars along the ventral side. These cichlids are herbivores and spend most of their tiime hopping along the substrate or perching on rocks as gobies often do. They will eat green algeas that grow on the rocks, but should be fed foods like spirulina and vegetable tabs to round out their appetite.

Radium HRI Lamp - Mogul Base Metal Halide - 250W - 20,000K

Thu, 05 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Radium HRI Lamp - Mogul Base Metal Halide - 250W - 20,000K German Radium 250W 20,000k Mogul Base Metal Halide lamp encourages fluorescence from your corals with intense blue-white rays. Coloration is also ideal for simulating dawn-dusk light cycles. Requires magnetic pulse start, magnetic HQI or electronic ballast. Lamp burns bluer with magnetic pulse or electronic ballast. Lamp burns whiter with magnetic HQI ballast. Click here for lamp specs direct from Radium.

Neolamprologus helianthus "Sunflower Cichlid"

Thu, 05 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

This brilliant orange-gold fish has elongated finnage tipped in white. It can be quite aggressive toward its tankmates, especially if its spawning time! For this reason, it is best to keep helianthus in a species-only tank, with well-established, hardy lamprologines, or a large school of cyprichromis. This fish enjoys plenty of open swimming space as well as lots of rockwork and caves. They are a cave spawner. Plants such as anubias and vallisneria species do well in the higher pH. Feed a variety of meaty foods including a hearty flake, pellet, freeze-dried, and small frozen items.

Neolamprologus caudopunctatus "Red Fin Caudopunk" - Juvenile

Thu, 05 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Neolamprologus caudopunctatus, or the Caudopunk to cichlid afficionatos, has a silvery-beige colored body accented by a golden yellow dorsal fin. The eyes are usually iridescent blue. They are small cichlids and do well in small tanks with few tankmates. Neolamprologus "red fin" does not actually have red fins, only golden yellow. They are native to the Zambian coast. This species is egg laying and the parents will care for and protect the brood once the fry are hatched for several days. Feed them brine shrimp, cichlid flake, and pellet foods.

Labidochromis perlmutt - Small

Thu, 05 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The Perlmutt is thought by some experts to be a localized color variant of Labidochromis caeruleus. It is found at several locations along the Tanzanian shore including Higga and Mbamba Bay Island. Males have bright yellow fins and a pearly white body with blue iridescence. Dark vertical stripes may come and go with their mood. Females are only slightly more drab, with obvious vertical stripes on a silvery body, and yellow fins. While not as aggressive as other Mbuna, Labidochromis will fight amongst themselves, so they are best one to a tank or in breeding trios, unless the tank is very large. They enjoy a diet rich in algae and vegetable matter. A staple flake, along with the occasional treat of meaty frozen food is a good diet. Tank decor should contain plenty of rockwork, a suitable substrate for maintaining water hardness, and some plants that can handle the higher pH. Perlmutts are maternal mouth brooders, meaning the female will carry the eggs and fry in her mouth for protection.

Danio rerio 'frankei' "Longfin Leopard Danio"

Thu, 05 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The Leopard Danio has a yellow or silver body with blue speckles. The Longfin variety has been bred to have longer pectoral, dorsal and caudal (tail) fins. Danios are hardy fish, and can be used as ???? 1/2starter fish???? 1/2 for new aquariums. They are schooling fish that should be kept in groups. Danios are peaceful fish, and can be kept with most other community species. They are very active swimmers and are constantly on the move. These fish can be fed most flake and small pelleted foods, and well as frozen brine shrimp and bloodworms as treats. Danios will generally occupy the upper portion of the water column, so a floating or slow-sinking food is a better choice than quick sinking varieties.

Serranus baldwini "Lantern Bass"

Wed, 04 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The Lantern Bass ( Serranus baldwini ) is covered with small rectangular patches in shades of brown, red and orange. A yellow lines runs horizontally from the gills to the tail. This fish is fairly bold for its size and should not be kept with passive tankmates ir in a very small aquarium. Basses and basslets from the Serranus genus vary in appearance and size but are similar in care and relative temperament. They are Reef Safe, spending much of their time perching in, on, and around rockwork and caves. They may become territorial and should not be kept with extremely small, passive or skittish fish. They also may prey on smaller crustaceans like shrimp and crabs. These fish are generally not picky eaters and will accept a wide variety of foods. Some may eat prepared pellets and flakes with time but a varied meaty diet is best. They can be given frozen or fresh shrimp, clam, scallop, brine shrimp, mysis shrimp, krill and similar items. The size of the piece should be suitable to the size of the fish being fed. Visit That Fish Blog for more information from our marine biologists on Bold Basslets , the Chalk Bass and more.

Kenyi - Maylandia lombardoi - Juvenile

Wed, 04 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Maylandia lombardoi were previously named Pseudotropheus lombardoi. They originated around Mbenji Island and Nkhomo Reef in Lake Malawi. Female and juvenile Kenyi are blue with vertical black stripes, while males are yellow to orange, and bars may appear with mood. These Mbuna are rather aggressive and should only be kept with other cichlids that can take their rowdy behavior. Try to keep one male per 2-3 females, and do not mix similar males, especially in small tanks. Lots of rocks and caves should be created in the tank to help the fish establish territory and provide cover. Be sure to feed mbuna a diet rich in greens and vegetable matter, as they are herbivores, and cannot tolerate too much protein in their diet.

Paratilapia polleni "Small Spot Cichlid"

Tue, 03 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Paratilapia polleni , the Small-spot Madagascar Cichlid, is a rare offering as it is endangered in the wild. These cichlids are dark with irregularly shaped white spots. They are often confused with the Large Spot Cichlid, once thought to be a regional variant or seperate species known as Paratilapia bleekeri , the Large Spot Cichlid. The Large Spot Cichlid is thought to be extinct in the wild and these two variants should not be kept together to avoid hybridizataion. They are popular with aquarists due to their outgoing personalities and bold nature, much like oscars. They will need a meaty diet and plenty of cover like rocks and wood, while still maintaining free space in the aquarium for adults to swim freely.

Dormitator maculatus "Fat Sleeper Goby"

Tue, 03 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

The Fat Sleeper Goby is a known by many common names including Jade Sleeper Goby and Striped Sleeper. It is silvery-gray in color and has iridescent horizontal lines on its face and flanks. These lines shine with green, blue, and gold. This is a large fish that is found in coastal freshwater, estuarine, brackish, and marine environments. In captivity, they are best kept in brackish water. Juveniles will accept meaty and vegetable foods, and can be fed frozen diets, flakes, and pellets. As they mature, they will graduate from small foods to larger prey items. Larger gobies can be fed frozen fish and other meaty foods. Fat Sleeper Gobies are large fish that become territorial and aggressive as they mature. They can reach over 2 feet in length and will consume anything that they can swallow. For this reason, they are best kept with larger brackish species that can withstand some aggressive behavior, or by themselves. Sleepers should be kept in a tank that has plenty of substrate to satisfy their frequent urge to dig. Large rocks can be arranged to form shelters and caves. They are relatively hardy as long as good water quality is maintained.

Gonodactylus smithii "Smith's Mantis Shrimp"

Mon, 02 Jan 2012 00:00:00 GMT

Gonodactylus smithii "Smith's Mantis Shrimp" Smith's Mantis Shrimp ( Gonodactylus smithii ) is also known as the "Purple Meral Mantis" or "Purple-spotted Mantis" after its purple meral spot. They are normally dark green in color with lighter antennal scales, although shrimp collected from deeper water may be more reddish and some other smay have red edges on each body segment. These mantis shrimp are "smashers". Mantis Shrimp have highly specialized care and requirements and can harm tankmates or the aquarist. For in-depth information on mantis shrimp care and research, please visit That Fish Blog for PART 1 and PART 2 of Frank Indiviglio's entry, Mantis Shrimp (Order:Stomatopoda) - Breaking Research and Care in Captivity . Mantis Shrimp are not traditional "shrimp" but are actually members of their own group known as Stomatopods. They are some of the most notorious "hitchhikers" that occassionally show up in a tank after hiding in live rock or corals. They have very powerful claws that can crush shells, split flesh or even crack aquarium glass (an acrylic tank is recommended). Mantis shrimp need meaty foods and will prey on tankmates. Mantis shrimp earn a bad reputation but they are fascinating creatures for a species-only aquarium. Individuals like this brightly colored specimen are attractive and make the perfect "pet" for an aquarist looking for a change from the norm! This is a Restricted item and is not covered by our Arrive Alive 5-Day Guarantee. Please visit the Guarantee Policy and Restricted Species webpages for more information.

Two-striped Apisto - Apistogramma bitaeniata

Fri, 30 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Two-striped Apisto - Apistogramma bitaeniata This is a Restricted item and is not covered by our Arrive Alive 5-Day Guarantee. Please visit the Guarantee Policy and Restricted Species webpages for more information.

Synodontis petricola "Pygmy Synodontis" - Small

Fri, 30 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Synodontis petricola is an attractive cat from the alkaline waters of Lake Tanganyika. It has pale tan or gray coloration with lots of small black spots and black fins that are edged in white. Synodontis catfish typically require water that is well-oxygenated and has a relatively strong current. This can be achieved by using powerheads or a spray bar water return attachment on a canister filter. Provide hiding places situated in areas of heavy current for shelter. Most synodontis catfish are omnivorous, and should be offered both meaty foods and vegetation. They are peaceful fish, and can be kept in most community and some African cichlid aquariums. Synodontis are, for the most part, nocturnal fish. They may become more active in the aquarium during the day over time but will come out of hiding the most during the night. A very well planted, dimly lit aquarium will encourage them to come out more often.

Rocio octofasciata "Electric Blue Jack Dempsey" - Small

Fri, 30 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Please note : This fish average about 1.5" in length. They are small and much more docile than regular Jack Dempseys and should not be kept with these fish. Electric Blue Dempseys do not naturally occur in nature, and it is debated whether they are line bred variants, or hybrids. Regardless, with their beautiful blue and silver speckles, these fish are very beautiful. They should not be kept with smaller fish or docile tankmates as they will eventually become quite aggressive. They are best kept with other Central American cichlids, but can be kept with other fish of similar size and temperament. They will accept a variety of foods such as flake, pellets, and the occasional frozen foods. They enjoy a tank with ample rockwork to explore, and they should be safe with plants, though sometimes they can redecorate certain areas of their tank to their own liking, uprooting plants and knocking over other decor.

Pantodon buchholzi "African Butterfly Fish"

Fri, 30 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

The African Butterfly Fish is an interesting fish that spends most of its time at the surface of the water. It has a long slender body and large pectoral fins that angle upwards like wings. These wings enable the butterfly fish to jump exceptionally well, so provide a tigh-fitting cover. This fish is silvery to olive in color with a chocolate to black marbled pattern on the body. This pattern varies between specimens, with some fish appearing almost completely dark. Its long ventral fins are deeply serrated, giving them the appearance of many fine filaments extending from a central origin. The other fins are transparent with dark rays. Male African butterflies have a curved anal fin, while in females the anal fin is straight. These fish are surface predators, and feed primarily on insects, larvae and other small items that fall into the water. They can usually be weaned onto a pellets or frozen foods, but should always have some live insects included in their diet. These fish are relatively peaceful, and can be kept with most community fish. They will, however, eat very small fish on occasion, such as fry, so be sure that tankmates are too large to be swallowed. African butterflies are shy, and need subdued lighting and plenty of hiding places. Appropriate shelters can be made using floating plants and other decorations that reach the upper area of the tank.

Jordanella floridae "American Flagfish"

Fri, 30 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

The American Flagfish is an attractive killifish with a coloration vaguely reminiscent of the American flag. In males, the body is light colored with an irridescent blue-green sheen. Numerous horizontal red, broken lines mark its flanks. A darker blotch marks the center of the body just below the dorsal fins. Females are tan and duller in color, with shorter fins and some dark mottling on the sides. Flagfish are peaceful fish that can be kept with most community species. However, they can be territorial with their own kind. They are best kept in pairs, or one male with a few females. Unlike many killifish, these fish are very hardy, and can be easily kept and bred in the home aquarium. Provide a heavily planted aquarium with subdued lighting. These fish will accept a variety of foods including small worms, crustaceans, insects, plant matter such as spinach or lettuce, as well as pellets and flakes. American flagfish are primarily freshwater fish, but they are known to enter brackish water, and can be kept successfully in brackish water tanks. They are sensitive to high temperatures, so keep them with temperate species that will tolerate slightly lower temperatures. This is a Restricted item and is not covered by our Arrive Alive 5-Day Guarantee. Please visit the Guarantee Policy and Restricted Species webpages for more information.

Imperial Tigress - Protomelas steveni - Juvenile

Fri, 30 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Imperial Tigress - Protomelas steveni - Juvenile Protomelas steveni "Imperial Tigress" originates from various points in Lake Malawi near Tanzania. Dominant males feature brilliant blue coloration on the head accented with yellow flanks. Females are silver with darker bars. Feed this cichlid a variety of foods such as spirulina and cichlid flakes or pellets. They are micro-predators in nature, feeding on small inverts and crustaceans found in rock and substrate. Tank decor should consist of plenty of rocky caves and cliffs, as well as a sandy, soft substrate. This fish is relatively peaceful with other tankmates, though it can be aggressive towards other males of the same species or those with similar coloration. This fish, like most Malawians, is a maternal mouthbrooder, meaning the female will keep the fry in her mouth for several weeks for protection.

Gymnocorymbus ternetzi "White Skirt Tetra"

Fri, 30 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

This species is commonly known as the Black Tetra or the Black Skirt Tetra. White Skirt Tetras are just a color variation developed from this type of fish, reached through selective breeding. They are a schooling type of fish that generally need a group of at least 3 to be more comfortable in a home aquarium. As they reach a size that is a little larger than the other tetras, tankmates should be chosen accordingly. Smaller fish may be chased or nipped at because of how small they they are and if housed with these fish in a small aquarium. The will accept most flake and pellet food and should be fed once a day with a variety of these foods to help them keep a healthy immune system. All in all they are a very hardy aquarium fish and are excellent for beginners who are just learning about keeping aquariums.

Double Red Agassizi - Apistogramma agassizi

Fri, 30 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Apistograma agassizi are wonderful little cichlids, rich in color and personality. This particular Apisto, the Double Red, features some brilliant red to orange finnage with black markings throughout the fins. The body is silvery-gold with iridescent blue scales and a definite dark strip running through the midline. They have distinct black markings on their face, a yellow under-belly, and elongated pectoral fins. The female appears more solid yellow-gold with red tips on her fins and a black spot right in the middle of her body. This dwarf cichlid is usually peaceful unless it is in the spawning mood. They prefer a tank with plenty of plant cover, as well as a few nice caves or other hiding areas. They stay to the bottom of the tank, so choose other bottom-dwelling tankmates wisely. To breed these fun fish, stay to the lower end of the recommended pH scale and up the temperature. Feed rich meaty foods such as bloodworms and frozen brine shrimp. As a regular diet, they should be ok on small pellets or flake, as well. If you want to keep more than one, keep either a pair, or one male to a few females. This is a Restricted item and is not covered by our Arrive Alive 5-Day Guarantee. Please visit the Guarantee Policy and Restricted Species webpages for more information.

Aulonocara baenschi "Yellow Peacock" - Adult

Fri, 30 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Aulonocaras are called Peacock Cichlids due to the fantastic coloration developed by dominant males. They are Malawi mouthbrooders, and there are many color variants that have developed within species at different points in the lake. Aulonocara baenschi hails from Nkhomo Reef near Benga, Malawi. Dominant males feature electric yellow bodies with blue highlights on the face, tail, and flanks. Females have a drab appearance which is characteristic of the genus. Peacock cichlids may be housed with other species of Lake Malawi fish with similar temperament. They should not be housed with other Peacocks unless ample room is provided, and males may not develop brilliant colors due to dominance issues. Research will help the aquarist pick out the most appropriate fish to mix. Aulonocara will accept both flake or pellet food soon after being introduced into the aquarium. A variety of foods is recommended to encourage coloration and supply the fish with appropriate vitamins and minerals. They may also be fed frozen foods as a healthy treat.

Apistogramma agassizii "Blue Agassizii"

Fri, 30 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Apistogramma agassizii "Blue Agassizii" Apistogramma agassizis are wonderful little cichlids, rich in color and personality. This particular Apisto's body is golden brown with iridescent blue color through the belly and a wide, dark stripe running through the midline. They have distinct black markings on their face, a yellow face and breast, and elongated pectoral fins. This dwarf cichlid is usually peaceful unless it is spawning. They prefer a tank with plenty of plant cover, as well as a few nice caves or other hiding areas. They stay to the bottom of the tank, so choose other bottom-dwelling tankmates wisely. To breed these fish, stay to the lower end of the recommended pH scale and raise the temperature slightly. Feed them rich meaty foods such as bloodworms and frozen brine shrimp. As a regular diet, small pellets or flakes are a good staple. If you want to keep more than one, keep either a pair, or one male to a few females. This is a Restricted item and is not covered by our Arrive Alive 5-Day Guarantee. Please visit the Guarantee Policy and Restricted Species webpages for more information.

Select Parrot Cage with Wrought Iron - 24 in. x 20 in. x 60 in. - Cobalt Blue

Thu, 29 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Seabuffer - 16 oz.

Thu, 29 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Seabuffer is a chemically balanced supplement designed to increase and maintan alkalinity and pH without risk of shock from sudden large increases in pH.

ReptoGuard Medicated Sulfa Block - 20 g

Thu, 29 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

ReptoGuard is a slow release medicated sulfa block designed for Aquatic Turtles, Amphibians, and other Reptiles to help control common diseases. Great turtle tank water treatment. ReptoGuard keeps your pet healthy and happy in its aquatic environment Size: Block is 2" x 1.25" x 0.5"

Radium HRI Lamp - Mogul Base Metal Halide - 400W - 20,000K

Thu, 29 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Radium HRI Lamp - Mogul Base Metal Halide - 400W - 20,000K German Radium 400W 20,000k Mogul Base Metal Halide lamp encourages fluorescence from your corals with intense blue-white rays. Coloration is also ideal for simulating dawn-dusk light cycles. Requires magnetic pulse start, magnetic HQI or electronic ballast. Lamp burns bluer with magnetic pulse or electronic ballast. Lamp burns whiter with magnetic HQI ballast. Click here for lamp specs direct from Radium.

HomeoPet Cleanz Detox - 15 mL

Thu, 29 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Improve liver, kidney function and proper health to your pet with the cost effective Cleanz Detox. Toxin build up from yard chemicals, household cleaning products, air fresheners and more in these essential organs can leave your animal looking and feeling ill. When the kidney and liver are working properly, your animal can gain weight, has more energy, brighter eyes and a shinier coat. Non-toxic liquid removes toxins from the liver and kidney naturally.

Flight Aviary Cage - 37 in. x 27 in. x 68 in. Deep

Thu, 29 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Designed for an entire flock of smaller birds, this Prevue Hendryx Flight cage provides lots of room and handy features for you. 2 large front doors and side-opening cup doors provide easy access and maintenance. A pull-out bottom grille and drawer allow for easy cleaning. Casters allow you to place the cage exactly where you want it. Also includes 4 plastic double cups and 2 wooden perches. 3/8 in. wire spacing. Please call customer service to determine shipping costs at 1-888-THAT PET. Item is dropshipped directly from the manufacturer.

Tennis Tummies - Dog - Medium - 10 in.

Wed, 28 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Tennis Tummies - Dog - Medium - 10 in. With Tennis Tummies, you can give your dog two of their favorite things in one toy! Adorable characters have tennis ball tummies and floppy plush head and limbs. Easy to carry, toss, tug, and fetch.

Serranus tigrinus "Harlequin Bass" - Large

Wed, 28 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

The Harlequin Bass ( Serranus tigrinus ) has a white-yellow body with black spots, stripes, and dashes. Its snout is more pointed than many other basses in its family. They are one of the more aggressive Serranus basses and will get along with most larger community fish. Basses and basslets from the Serranus genus vary in appearance and size but are similar in care and relative temperament. They are Reef Safe, spending much of their time perching in, on, and around rockwork and caves. They may become territorial and should not be kept with extremely small, passive or skittish fish. They also may prey on smaller crustaceans like shrimp and crabs. These fish are generally not picky eaters and will accept a wide variety of foods. Some may eat prepared pellets and flakes with time but a varied meaty diet is best. They can be given frozen or fresh shrimp, clam, scallop, brine shrimp, mysis shrimp, krill and similar items. The size of the piece should be suitable to the size of the fish being fed. Visit That Fish Blog for more information from our marine biologists on Bold Basslets , the Chalk Bass and more.

Serranus tabacarius "Tobacco Bass" - Small

Wed, 28 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Tobacco Basses ( Serranus tabacarius , also called the Tobaccofish) have irregular light and dark bands along their dorsal area and are flanked with bright orange sides. They are one of the larger Serranus basses and will get along with most larger community fish. Basses and basslets from the Serranus genus vary in appearance and size but are similar in care and relative temperament. They are Reef Safe, spending much of their time perching in, on, and around rockwork and caves. They may become territorial and should not be kept with extremely small, passive or skittish fish. They also may prey on smaller crustaceans like shrimp and crabs. These fish are generally not picky eaters and will accept a wide variety of foods. Some may eat prepared pellets and flakes with time but a varied meaty diet is best. They can be given frozen or fresh shrimp, clam, scallop, brine shrimp, mysis shrimp, krill and similar items. The size of the piece should be suitable to the size of the fish being fed. Visit That Fish Blog for more information from our marine biologists on Bold Basslets , the Chalk Bass and more.

IntelliFeed Aquarium Fish Feeder

Wed, 28 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

An IntelliFeed Fish Feeder is perfect for vacations and extended absences, or for someone who simply wants to enjoy their aquarium without constantly worrying about feeding. Completely automatic, digitally controlled feeder is programed to dispense food up to 12 times per day. Using the digital keyboard and LCD display controls, you can adjust to your aquarium???? 1/2s unique needs. At feeding time, the sealed container moves forward, rotates, drops desired amount of food, and returns back to housing, keeping moisture out and food dry. Fish can be manually fed anytime you like with the ???? 1/2Set???? 1/2 button. Holds 7.5 cubic inches of your favorite crisp, pellet, or flake food. Powered by 4 AA batteries (not included). Mounted with included bracket. Dimensions: Length: 4.53 inches Height: 3.66 inches Width: 3.07 inches

Assorted Angelfish - Small

Wed, 28 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Angelfish are overwhelmingly popular in the aquarium hobby, and its easy to see why. With their assorted color patterns and beautiful flowing fins, these fish truly live up to their name. Angelfish are generally peaceful, although they can become territorial if there is inadequate space for them to live happily. A breeding couple may also become particularly nippy when protecting eggs or young. Be sure your tank is large enough to allow each fish to have their own space, and also be sure the tank is tall enough to allow the fish space for their longer finnage. The recommended tank size of 30 gallons is for a single fish or pair; increase the tank size for a community tank including angelfish. Beware of fin-nipping tankmates such as barbs. Angel fins are very tempting to these fish! A planted tank is a great home for angelfish, plus other decor, such as driftwood and rockwork, makes great hide-out areas for your fish. Water quality is also important for your angels, so keep an eye on your ammonia level, and be sure to perform water changes regularly. Angels aren't too fussy when it comes to diet. Feed them a variety such as flake or small pellets/granules once a day, changing it up with a meaty frozen food such as brine shrimp or bloodworms as their second feeding. When cared for properly, angelfish are a very friendly and rewarding species to keep!

Anubias barteri var. nana 'petite'

Wed, 28 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Often referred to simply as Anubias nana , this plant is a cultivated variation of the popular Anubias barteri . It stays much smaller in height than other Anubias plants and has very round leaves. The leaves on the "Petite" variety remain very small in diameter as well as low in height. Anubias plants are native to Africa, although many different varieties, variations and hybrids have been created. The genus contains eight different species and several variations, most often of the as a whole generally consists of plants with darker green, very thick leaves that can be elliptical, triangular, round or heart-shaped. Anubias are fairly forgiving and adaptable. Most are best in lower light aquariums and may be overtaken by algae in tanks with higher lighting. They can also be grown in paladiums with their leaves exposed and the root systems underwater. They can tolerate higher pH and hardness levels, making them suitable for African cichlid aquariums. Anubias grow slowly in aquariums but may have more rapid growth in paladiums. CO 2 and fertilizer supplements can be used but are not usually necessary. The roots on Anubias plants grow from a stiff, thick rhizome. When planting, plant only the roots and leave the rhizome exposed. Anubias can also be attached to rocks or driftwood; use fishing line or other ties to secure the plant in place until the roots attach. Visit That Fish Blog for more information from our marine biologists and aquarium staff on Planted Aquariums and other aquarium-related topics!

Trichogaster leerii "Pearl Gourami" - Small

Tue, 27 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Pearl Gouramis are light silver to golden in coloration with blue and orange in their fins. They have a black line that runs from the front of their face through the eye all the way to the caudal fin. Beautiful white dots are spread through the whole body and will reflect light nicely in the home aquarium. Gouramis have an internal organ called the labyrinth organ that allows them to breathe atmospheric air. This is an adaptation to the rice paddies and stagnant pools in which these fish often live. All gouramis also have the pelvic fins modified into long filaments that they can use to sense their surroundings. Gouramis are bubble nest breeders and the males will build floating nests out of bubbles that the eggs will be deposited into. Breeding is fairly simple. Male fish have the dorsal fin elongated into a point while females are short and rounded. They will accept a large variety of floating pellet and flake foods. Gouramis are generally suitable for planted aquariums as they will not damage the live plants. As they get larger they can become aggressive, particularly to other gouramis. Tank mates should be chosen to able to handle this aggression. They do well with barbs, loaches, large tetras, and semi-aggressive cichlids.

Poecilia latipinna "Assorted Lyretail Molly"

Tue, 27 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Assorted Lyretail Mollies are found in a variety of colors and variations, including black, white, yellow, orange and others. The fish pictured here is representative only - if you would like to request a coloration or to see what is available, contact a Livestock department representative. As with all livebearers, they are prolific breeders and are best kept in a "harem" ratio of one male to two or three females. This allows the females to have some relief from the males' constant pestering. Males have a modified pointed anal fin known as a "gonopodium" while this fin is held fanned out in females. These fish are fine in community tanks as long as they are not overstocked with many other fish. They will accept prepared food such as flakes and pellet food easily and should be kept on this diet because of the large amounts of vitamins and minerals available. Mollies are generally brackish water fish in nature, meaning they like a salt level between that of true freshwater and full saltwater (usually with a specific gravity of 1.005 to 1.015). While they can be acclimated to freshwater, they still should have a higher pH - around 7.4 to 7.8 - and will benefit from some aquarium salts.

Natural Pig Ears

Tue, 27 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Only FDA approved packing facilities used when selecting the raw cow and pig materials for dog treats. All shipments of natural treats are inspected with a careful quality control system. Satisfy your dog's natural desire to chew with this great tasting Smoked Pig Ear. Size: Sizes vary

Mesonauta festivus "Flag Cichlid" - Small

Tue, 27 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

The Mesonauta genus features about a dozen different species other than the Festivum, and the chances that your festivus is actually another species is very good. The differences are very subtle, usually an additional bar or dorsal ray - something barely distinguishable. This beautiful cichlid features an oval shaped body with iridescent colors that change with the fishes' mood. Greens, blues, and violets appear on the flanks along with a diagonal black stripe that spans from the eye to the mid-dorsal. Faint barring is sometimes visible when they are stressed. They also have red eyes and elongated pectoral fins. This wonderful fish gets along fine with other mild-mannered fish. It can be aggressive with other festivums, especially males, particularly during spawning. They can easily be kept with an assortment of larger tetra species, severums, and other similar fish. Feed them a variety of foods, flakes, pellets, and they'll enjoy a frozen meaty treat every now and again. They will also pick at plants, so try plastic or silk for easy maintenance. Other decor can include driftwood, rocks, or ornaments. This species stays close to the top of the water at all times, so provide plenty of space. Festivums are substrate spawners and can be rather difficult to breed; they require strict water parameters.

Genicanthus lamarck "Blackstriped Angel" - Medium/Large

Tue, 27 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Genicanthus lamarck "Blackstriped Angel" - Medium/Large The Blackstriped Angel ( Genicanthus lamarck ) is also known as the Lamarck Angel. It is light blue with a black dorsal fin and four black horizontal stripes that run the length of the fish. Its lyre-shaped tail is scattered with black freckles. The smaller angelfish and "pygmy angelfish" available in the aquarium trade include those from the genera Apolemichthys , Centropyge , Chaetodontoplus , Genicanthus , and a few others. Of these, Apolemichthys and Chaetodontoplus are generally the largest. Centropyge is the largest group and some fish have been separated into new species and genera in recent years. Suitable tankmates for most of these angels would be community fish like tangs, clownfish, damsels, gobies, blennies, butterflies and similar fish. More shy and passive angels can be kept with smaller, more docile tankmates. Angels should not be kept with other angels in the home aquarium to avoid territorial conflicts. Occasionally, two angels may tolerate one another in a very large aquarium if they have very different coloration and appearance, but is not typical. All angels have cheekspines at the edge of their gill cover and in the dorsal fin; use caution when handling and avoid using a net that they may become stuck or tangled in. The diet of angels generally consists of meaty foods and algaes. They can be fed a variety of frozen items like formulas, mysis shrimp, brine shrimp, scallops and others, as well as pellets, flakes, algae sheets and other foods. Many can be kept successfully in a reef, but use caution with any angels in a reef system, especially with polyps and SPS corals; some have been known to nip at the occasionally polyp, coral or clam mantle but not to the extent of the larger angel species. Genicanthus angelfish are generally planktivores and are not usually a large risk to corals. Visit That Fish Blog for an Overview on Natural History and Care of Marine Angelfishes as well as a Species Profile on the Pygmy Angelfish and more from our marine biologists and aquatic staff.

Cirrhitichthys aureus "Golden Hawkfish"

Tue, 27 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

The Golden Hawkfish ( Cirrhitichthys aureus ) is golden yellow with faint spots. Hawkfish are generally hardy fish with tons of "personality". They do not have swim bladders like most other fish and can usually be found perching on the substrate or rockwork. When a potential meal or invaders to their territorial swims (or crawls) by, the hawkfish will swoop in like their avian namesakes. They are always alert and will "hop" from perch to perch to investigate their surroundings. These fish can be kept with most other tankmates in a community or reef aquarium. Aside from any irritation that their perching may cause, they will not bother or damage corals and stationary invertebrates. They will, however, prey on smaller tankmates and crustaceans like shrimp. Hawkfish are not picky eaters and will almost always act hungry. They can be fed a variety of size-appropriate meaty foods (various types of shrimp, scallop, krill, fish flesh, plankton, squid, etc.) and most will also accept prepared foods like flakes and pellets. Larger hawkfish can be given live ghost shrimp as an occasional treat.

Ancistrus ranunculus (L034) "Medusa Pleco"

Tue, 27 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Medusa Plecos are dark brown or black with frilly appendages on their head that give them the same name as the Greek myth. They will eat algae in the aquarium and also like to munch on driftwood. This species is moderately sized and only grows to a size of 5 to 6 inches.

Aequidens rivulatus "Green Terror Cichlid" - Small

Tue, 27 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

This beautiful South American cichlid makes up for its temperament with its fantastic green-blue speckles throughout its body. The Green Terror Cichlid has an interesting pattern of iridescent green-blue stripes and speckles on its face as well. The finnage is long and tipped in orange. Males develop a large bump on their head. As their name would suggest, the Green Terror can be quite aggressive. Its large adult size also makes it a tough fish to keep. For tankmates, while young, any other South American cichilds of similar temperament will do fine. With full-sized adults, it is best to keep them in a pair, one pair to a 100+ gallon tank. Be sure to pair Green Terrors at a young age. Older males and females are less likely to form bonds and will hassle each other. As for tank decor, they like a typical cichlid decorating scheme, lots of rockwork, caves, and plenty of open-swimming room. Plants will most likely be uprooted and torn apart. The Green Terror will accept a variety of foods including a well-balanced cichlid flake or hearty pellet. Frozen meaty foods will also be appreciated. They are relatively easy to breed. They are substrate spawners and both male and female will care for the eggs and fry.

Acanthurus triostegus "Convict Tang" - Medium

Tue, 27 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

The Convict Tang ( Acanthurus triostegus ) has a creamy white body with 5-6 dark, thin vertical bars. They can be territorial and will not tolerate other Convict tangs or similar species Tangs and Surgeonfish are some of the most popular and common fish found in the aquarium trade. This group includes several genuses that can be associated with the various common name groups although "Surgeonfish" and "Tang" are often used interchangeably: Acanthurus ("Surgeonfish"), Naso ("Unicorn Tangs"), Ctenochaetus ("Bristletooth Tangs") and Zebrasoma ("Tangs"). They are found in almost every tropical oceans and in almost every color and pattern. The common names ???? 1/2surgeonfish???? 1/2 or "doctorfish" comes from the tiny scalpel-like spine at the base of the fish's tail. They use this spine as defense and will extend the spine if threatened. You may witness the tang shimmying up against another tang or fish; this is a sign of aggression as they may be using this spine to ward off the other fish. Always use caution when handling or netting a tang since this spine can become caught or cause injuries. Tangs and Surgeonfish are omnivores but a large part of the diet of most species consists of algae and plant matter. Tangs should also be given some meaty food to round out their diet. However, tangs that are fed primarily meaty foods over a long period of time are more likely to suffer from head and lateral line erosion (HLLE). HLLE disease in the short run is not fatal, but over time if the disease continues to progress the fish will stop eating and become lethargic and susceptible to other infections which may eventually contribute to its demise. The best treatment is prevention; maintain excellent water quality and feed a rich and varied diet. Supplementing with a multivitamin (A, D, E, B complex, and Iodine) may also help prevent further erosion. Tangs are generally community fish and get along with most other tankmates. Most do not bother corals and can actually help keep nuisance algae trimmed and under control, especially "Bristletooth Tangs" from the Ctenochaetus genus. Tangs may get territorial and aggressive towards similar tangs, so always use caution when keeping these fish together or with other fish that have a similar body shape or coloration. Visit That Fish Blog for more information on Tangs and Surgeonfish and other aquarium-related topics from our marine biologists and aquatic staff.

Slim Heater for Mini Aquariums - Up to 5 Gallon - 7.5 Watt

Mon, 26 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Slim Heater for Mini Aquariums - Up to 5 Gallon - 7.5 Watt A 7.5 watt Slim Heater is ideal for your mini or micro tropical aquarium up to 5 gallons in size. Shock proof heater is uniquely shaped to fit easily into a variety of tanks, above or below the substrate. Perfect for glass, acrylic, or plastic aquariums. Measures 4.5 in. by 2.5 in. UL approved.

Slim Heater for Mini Aquariums - 5 to 10 Gallon - 15 Watt

Mon, 26 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Slim Heater for Mini Aquariums - 5 to 10 Gallon - 15 Watt A 15 watt Slim Heater is ideal for your mini or micro tropical aquarium 5 to 10 gallons in size. Shock proof heater is uniquely shaped to fit easily into a variety of tanks, above or below the substrate. Perfect for glass, acrylic, or plastic aquariums. Measures 4.5 in. by 2.5 in. UL approved.

Slim Heater for Bettas and Bowls - 2 to 5 Gallon - 7.5W

Mon, 26 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Slim Heater for Bettas and Bowls - 2 to 5 Gallon - 7.5W A 7.5 watt Slim Heater is ideal for your betta or small fish bowl 2 to 5 gallons in size. Bettas thrive in warm water, so it???? 1/2s best to keep a small heater in your bowl. Shock proof heater is shaped to fit easily into a round fish bowl, above or below the substrate. Perfect for glass, acrylic, or plastic bowls. Cord attaches to heater at 90 degree angle, so there???? 1/2s no extra adjusting or awkward positioning. Measures 4 in. by 4.5 in. UL Listed.

Zigzag Wrasse - Halichoeres scapularis

Fri, 23 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Zigzag Wrasse - Halichoeres scapularis The ZigZag wrasse is light green and pink with a bright orange eye. It has a black spot below the dorsal fin. Wrasses are long, torpedo-shaped, hardy fish that usually get along well in a community tank. They enjoy frozen foods and flake or pellet foods. They prefer a tank with sandy, soft substrate and plenty of rockwork to hide in. Wrasses are fine with most other fish, although they can be territorial with other wrasses.

Valenciennea strigata "Gold Head Sleeper Goby" - Medium

Fri, 23 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Gold Head Sleeper Gobies ( Valenciennea strigata , also known as Bluestreak Gobies or Yellow Head Gobies) have pale bodies, golden yellow heads, and blue markings on their cheeks. They tend to be more sensitive than other sleeper gobies and their delicate bodies can be easily bruised by other fish or sharp edges on the substrate or decor. This fish is best known as part of the group of gobies known as sandsifter or sleeper gobies. They take mouthfuls of the substrate and sift it out through their gills, searching for food. This can help keep the substrate aerated, and may help prevent the build-up of organic debris that leads to high nitrate levels, algae, and cyanobacteria ("Red Slime Algae"). They should be kept in a tank with fine, soft substrate that will not damage their gills as they sift. They will eat a variety of frozen foods and possibly flake and pellet. Gobies prefer a tank with plenty of rocky hiding places. They get along with most tankmates, but can be aggressive toward other gobies. When startled or threatened, they have been known to jump out of uncovered aquariums. Always keep the tank covered and provide plenty of hiding places for this fish to retreat to. Visit That Fish Blog for more information from our marine biologists on Gobies and other aquarium-related topics! This is a Restricted item and is not covered by our Arrive Alive 5-Day Guarantee. Please visit the Guarantee Policy and Restricted Species webpages for more information.

Turquoise Hap - Protomelas marginatus - Adult

Fri, 23 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Turquoise Hap - Protomelas marginatus - Adult Protomelas marginatus is the green and blue member of this colorful genus, with a wide, pale margin onthe dorsal fin. Males are the more colorful sex, while females remain drab. This fish is found all over Lake Malawi. These fish are not terribly aggressive, but will actively defend territory especially when breeding. Females are mouth brooders and will carry fry for up to three weeks before releasing them. These fish mosty herbivorous, and will pick at algae on the rocks, but cichlid pellets and frozen cichlid formulas in addition to green treats will provide well-rounded nutrition.

Thalassoma lunare "Lunar Wrasse" - Small

Fri, 23 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Lunar wrasses are often blue and green with lavender markings on the face and fins. The tail has a yellow center. Juveniles tend to have paler coloration. They are often found in small groups with one dominant male. They need good water movement, good water quality, and plenty of swimming room. Lunar wrasses are very active during the day and sleep at night. Dominant males can be territorial and aggressive but non-dominant Lyretail wrasses are generally peaceful. They should not be kept with invertebrates as they may be destructive, especially as they grow. They will voraciously eat most meaty frozen foods.

Shortnose Boxfish ?????? Rhynchostracion nasus ?????? XSmall Juvenile

Fri, 23 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Shortnose Boxfish ?????½ Rhynchostracion nasus ?????½ XSmall Juvenile Boxfish, Cowfish and Trunkfish are all very closely related to each other. All have bodies that are box or pyramid-shaped. Although they may resemble some puffers, these fish do not "inflate" when stressed like puffers do. Coloration, habitat and body shape may vary but all of these fish generally have pointed snouts that they used to pick prey items out of rockwork and crevices. They feed on invertebrates like some corals and polyps, crabs, shrimp, molluscs, worms and similar prey. They can be fed a varied meaty diet of fresh or frozen prey in the aquarium as long as the food is appropriately sized for their relatively small mouths. These fish are not Reef Safe. Many will eat corals, especially smaller-polyped corals and polyps. They can usually be kept with most peaceful tankmates but should not be kept with aggressive tankmates or very active swimmers that can stress these passive weak-swimming fish. If stressed, these fish can release a toxin into the water that can be harmful to itself and other tankmates. Always remove a struggling boxfish or cowfish into a separate quarantine tank if stressed and monitor their interactions with their tankmates closely. Avoid putting them in a tank with large, aggressive, or very active tankmates. Visit That Fish Blog for more information from our marine biologists and guest authors on Boxfish, Trunkfish and Cowfish as well as a Species Profile on Longhorn Cowfish . This is a Restricted item and is not covered by our Arrive Alive 5-Day Guarantee. Please visit the Guarantee Policy and Restricted Species webpages for more information.

Pseudocheilinus hexataenia "Sixline Wrasse" - Small

Fri, 23 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

The Sixline Wrasse has six bright, orange, horizontal lines over a body that is blue toward the dorsal side and fades to light purple on the ventral side. The eye is red with two horizontal white lines and there is a black spot with blue edging on the upper caudal peduncle. Sixline Wrasses are peaceful toward other fish but will not tolerate other Six-line wrasses or similar species. They are ideal for reef aquariums. Sixline wrasses are easy to feed and will accept most frozen, live, and flake foods. They are also well known bristleworms controllers and can help control the populations of these pests. This is a Restricted item and is not covered by our Arrive Alive 5-Day Guarantee. Please visit the Guarantee Policy and Restricted Species webpages for more information.

Paracanthurus hepatus "Hippo Tang" - Medium

Fri, 23 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

The Hippo Tang ( Paracanthurus hepatus ) is one of the most popular and recognizable saltwater fish today. It is known by many different common names in different regions, including Hippo Tang, Regal Tang, Palette Tang and Flagtail Tang. The Hippo Tang is bright blue with a black hook-shaped marking on its sides down the dorsal edge and along the midline. Its tail is yellow with black edges, and its pectoral fins have yellow edges. Individuals collected from Africa have yellow bellies. Tangs and Surgeonfish are some of the most popular and common fish found in the aquarium trade. This group includes several genuses that can be associated with the various common name groups although "Surgeonfish" and "Tang" are often used interchangeably: Acanthurus ("Surgeonfish"), Naso ("Unicorn Tangs"), Ctenochaetus ("Bristletooth Tangs") and Zebrasoma ("Tangs"). They are found in almost every tropical oceans and in almost every color and pattern. The common names ???? 1/2surgeonfish???? 1/2 or "doctorfish" comes from the tiny scalpel-like spine at the base of the fish's tail. They use this spine as defense and will extend the spine if threatened. You may witness the tang shimmying up against another tang or fish; this is a sign of aggression as they may be using this spine to ward off the other fish. Always use caution when handling or netting a tang since this spine can become caught or cause injuries. Tangs and Surgeonfish are omnivores but a large part of the diet of most species consists of algae and plant matter. Tangs should also be given some meaty food to round out their diet. However, tangs that are fed primarily meaty foods over a long period of time are more likely to suffer from head and lateral line erosion (HLLE). HLLE disease in the short run is not fatal, but over time if the disease continues to progress the fish will stop eating and become lethargic and susceptible to other infections which may eventually contribute to its demise. The best treatment is prevention; maintain excellent water quality and feed a rich and varied diet. Supplementing with a multivitamin (A, D, E, B complex, and Iodine) may also help prevent further erosion. Tangs are generally community fish and get along with most other tankmates. Most do not bother corals and can actually help keep nuisance algae trimmed and under control, especially "Bristletooth Tangs" from the Ctenochaetus genus. Tangs may get territorial and aggressive towards similar tangs, so always use caution when keeping these fish together or with other fish that have a similar body shape or coloration. Visit That Fish Blog for more information on Tangs and Surgeonfish and other aquarium-related topics from our marine biologists and aquatic staff. This is a Restricted item and is not covered by our Arrive Alive 5-Day Guarantee. Please visit the Guarantee Policy and Restricted Species webpages for more information.

Green Carpet Anemone - Stichodactyla haddoni

Fri, 23 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Green Carpet Anemone - Stichodactyla haddoni Carpet Anemones are among some of the largest aquarium anemones available. They have flat surfaces covered in small, bead-like tentacles. Some species of carpet anemones may have longer tentacles around the outer edge or around the mouth. Carpet anemone tentacles are particularly "sticky" and can deliver a painful sting. Anemones get most of their nutrition from the aquarium lighting and dissolved nutrients in the water but occasional feedings are beneficial. Shrimp, clam, krill and other meaty foods can be fed occassionally by placing the food on top of the anemone near its mouth and making sure no other tankmates take it before the anemone can take it in. Anemones have a high aggressiveness rating because they are mobile and have strong nematocysts (stinging cells) that can kill or damage other corals or animals. They will need large areas in which to expand their tentacles and should be placed in an aquarium that will allow them to open fully. Once they stay in a particular place, make sure no corals are to close as they may sting the coral in an attempt to keep it out of the territory. Anemones can sting people - avoid touching the tentacles of any anemone without proper protection, especially if you have sensitive skin or known allergies to other stings like bees or wasps. When first placed in the aquarium, they are known to move around to find the place where they feel they are having all their requirements met. This will normally happen anytime a change is made to their environment. Most anemones like to have their bases under a ledge or in a hole for protection, in a position that their tentacles can extend into the light. Lighting and water movement may affect the appearance, as may the presence of clownfish hosting in the tentacles. They generally need medium direct light, with medium water movement. While the interaction between anemones and clownfish (or other hosting tankmates like anemone crabs or anemone shrimp) can be interesting to watch, a clownfish is not necessary for the survival of an anemone and vice versa. Most clownfish have preferences for the types of anemones they will host in but may or may not choose a specific anemone as a host. Not all anemones are suitable as a host for clownfish or other animals. Visit That Fish Blog for more information from our marine biologists on anemone and clownfish preferences. This is a Restricted item and is not covered by our Arrive Alive 5-Day Guarantee. Please visit the Guarantee Policy and Restricted Species webpages for more information.

Gonodactylus chiragra "Chiragra Mantis Shrimp" - Female

Fri, 23 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Gonodactylus chiragra "Chiragra Mantis Shrimp" - Female The female Chiragra Mantis Shrimp ( Gonodactylus chiragra ) is light cream in color, sometimes with an olive green tone. Each body segment has a dark edge and the legs and gill segments may be yellow to pink tipped. The meral spot on the front legs is white. This species is a "smasher". Mantis Shrimp have highly specialized care and requirements and can harm tankmates or the aquarist. For in-depth information on mantis shrimp care and research, please visit That Fish Blog for PART 1 and PART 2 of Frank Indiviglio's entry, Mantis Shrimp (Order:Stomatopoda) - Breaking Research and Care in Captivity . Mantis Shrimp are not traditional "shrimp" but are actually members of their own group known as Stomatopods. They are some of the most notorious "hitchhikers" that occassionally show up in a tank after hiding in live rock or corals. They have very powerful claws that can crush shells, split flesh or even crack aquarium glass (an acrylic tank is recommended). Mantis shrimp need meaty foods and will prey on tankmates. Mantis shrimp earn a bad reputation but they are fascinating creatures for a species-only aquarium. Individuals like this brightly colored specimen are attractive and make the perfect "pet" for an aquarist looking for a change from the norm! This is a Restricted item and is not covered by our Arrive Alive 5-Day Guarantee. Please visit the Guarantee Policy and Restricted Species webpages for more information.

Epicystis crucifer "Neon Green Flower Anemone" - Medium

Fri, 23 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

This Neon Green Flower Anemone is very rare and available in extremely limited quantities! The Flower Anemone ( Epicystis crucifer ) is a very hardy anemone that is often chosen by new saltwater aquarists. They are found in a wide range of colors like white, brown, green and combinations of these. Also known as "Rock Anemones", they fix their foot into rocks or hard surfaces and, once attached, will not be moved easily. They can extend their foot up to several inches through substrate. They are usually safe with fish and corals, but large Flower Anemones have been reported to eat small invertebrates and shrimp, so use caution. This anemone is not a suitable clownfish host. Anemones get most of their nutrition from the aquarium lighting and dissolved nutrients in the water but occasional feedings are beneficial. Shrimp, clam, krill and other meaty foods can be fed occassionally by placing the food on top of the anemone near its mouth and making sure no other tankmates take it before the anemone can take it in. Most anemones have a high aggressiveness rating because they are mobile and have strong nematocysts (stinging cells) that can kill or damage other corals or animals. They will need large areas in which to expand their tentacles and should be placed in an aquarium that will allow them to open fully. Once they stay in a particular place, make sure no corals are to close as they may sting the coral in an attempt to keep it out of the territory. Some anemones can sting people - avoid touching the tentacles of any anemone without proper protection, especially if you have sensitive skin or known allergies to other stings like bees or wasps. When first placed in the aquarium, they are known to move around to find the place where they feel they are having all their requirements met. This will normally happen anytime a change is made to their environment. Most anemones like to have their bases under a ledge or in a hole for protection, in a position that their tentacles can extend into the light. Lighting and water movement may affect the appearance, but they generally need medium direct light, with medium water movement. This is a Restricted item and is not covered by our Arrive Alive 5-Day Guarantee. Please visit the Guarantee Policy and Restricted Species webpages for more information. Please note: No two Flower Anemones are identical. The anemone pictured above is representative only - the coloration of the anemone you receive may vary. Please contact the Livestock department for information on availability of specific colorations.

Diodon holocanthus "Porcupine Puffer" - Small

Fri, 23 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

The Porcupine Puffer ( Diodon holocanthus ) has long spines which it holds flat against its body until it inflates when threatened. It is usually light brown with darker brown blotches and black dots. These puffers can grow very large in size but usually remain much smaller. They are found along the western and eastern Atlantic Ocean as well as in areas of the Pacific Ocean and Indian Ocean. Puffers are incredibly popular for aquariums. Many puffers are curious and outgoing and they may even seem to ???? 1/2know???? 1/2 when their keeper is near, swimming quickly to the aquarium glass or water's surface when someone approaches the tank. While endearing, puffers may not be the right choice for some aquariums. Puffers are not too demanding in terms of care, but they need plenty of space and ample filtration to keep the water quality pristine. They're messy eaters, and the diet required for these fish can leave a lot of waste. Puffers have strong, ever-growing front teeth (beak) that they will need to wear down. They may chew on live rock in the tank to aid in the process. Feeding hard-shelled items, such as whole clams or shellfish, can also help to keep the teeth worn. Their diet should consist of a variety of meaty items like crab, shrimp, scallops, squid, krill and similar items. It is important to never provoke a puffer to see it inflate. Puffing is a stress or defense reaction, and it can cause health problems or even death for a puffer. The fish can swallow air or over-inflate with water, leading to even more stress as the fish attempted to recover and even death due to stress-related complications or internal injuries. If a puffer inflates, remove the source of the stress, lower the lighting on the tank and allow the fish to recover on its own. Avoid using a net or removing the puffer from the water and exposing it to air. Instead, transfer with rigid containers, which will minimize stress that can cause them to puff. All puffers can be destructive inverts and corals so it is not recommended that they be housed in reef tanks. Most are fine with most larger community fish, in a large tank with plenty of space to swim and explore. Avoid keeping them with tank mates that are much smaller, slow, delicate, or have long flowing fins. They may also prey upon much smaller fish and crustaceans like crabs and shrimp. Visit That Fish Blog for more information from our marine biologists on Pufferfish and other aquarium-related topics!

Dendrochirus zebra "Dwarf Zebra Lionfish" - Small

Fri, 23 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

The Dwarf Zebra Lionfish ( Dendrochirus zebra ) is named for its brown and white banded body and fin coloration. The pectoral fins of the Dwarf Zebra Lion are fan shaped and have shorter filaments than most lions. The body is stout and it has two short frills above its eyes. This species is very similar to several others, including the Antennata Lionfish ( Pterois antennata ). The Dwarf Zebra Lionfish is noted for the two light spots on the base of its tail which are absent in the other species. Lionfish and Scorpionfish are perhaps best known for the venomous spines in their dorsal and pectoral fins. The sharp spines are used by the fish to ward off predators. While special consideration should be given before placing one of these predators in your home aqaurium, they are some of the most stunning and desired fish in the aquarium trade. Fish in this family vary greatly in appearance, even between individuals of the same species. Many lionfish and scorpionfish are colored and shaped to blend in with rockwork, sponges, algae and other parts of the reefs they inhabit. These fish are voracious predators. Most species will wait for potential prey to come close before snatching it for a meal. Some, like the popular Volitan Lionfish, may actively stalk their prey. Lionfish and Scorpionfish can be fed a variety of frozen and prepared meaty foods like shrimp, clams, scallops, krill and other similar foods, but some may need live food like small feeder fish or ghost shrimp to trigger a feeding response. Those that dwell in rock or on the bottom of the aquarium may need to be target fed with tongs or a feeding stick to make sure they get adequate amounts of food. These fish are generally safe in reef aquariums as they do not eat corals or polyps, but take extra care to know where the fish is located as they may blend in very well with the rocks and corals. Do not keep these fish with shrimp, crabs or fish small enough to be eaten. The venomous spines of lionfish and other scorpionfish are used exclusively for defense. The potency of the venom varies by species, and effects can range from a strong irritation to very painful or even life-threatening reaction. Most stings in the aquarium happen accidentally, a result of the aquarist making contact with the spines while maintaining the tank. Feeding any animals in the tank by hand can increase the risk of being stung and is not recommended . Always be aware of where your lionfish or scorpionfish is when working in your aquarium, and seek medical attention immediately if a sting should occur. Visit That Fish Blog for more information from our on-staff marine biologists on Lionfish, Scorpionfish and other aquarium-related topics, including the trend of Lionfish as an Invasive Species in the Caribbean .

Darwin Scorpionfish - Parascorpaena sp.?

Fri, 23 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Darwin Scorpionfish - Parascorpaena sp.? Lionfish and Scorpionfish are perhaps best known for the venomous spines in their dorsal and pectoral fins. The sharp spines are used by the fish to ward off predators. While special consideration should be given before placing one of these predators in your home aqaurium, they are some of the most stunning and desired fish in the aquarium trade. Fish in this family vary greatly in appearance, even between individuals of the same species. Many lionfish and scorpionfish are colored and shaped to blend in with rockwork, sponges, algae and other parts of the reefs they inhabit. These fish are voracious predators. Most species will wait for potential prey to come close before snatching it for a meal. Some, like the popular Volitan Lionfish, may actively stalk their prey. Lionfish and Scorpionfish can be fed a variety of frozen and prepared meaty foods like shrimp, clams, scallops, krill and other similar foods, but some may need live food like small feeder fish or ghost shrimp to trigger a feeding response. Those that dwell in rock or on the bottom of the aquarium may need to be target fed with tongs or a feeding stick to make sure they get adequate amounts of food. These fish are generally safe in reef aquariums as they do not eat corals or polyps, but take extra care to know where the fish is located as they may blend in very well with the rocks and corals. Do not keep these fish with shrimp, crabs or fish small enough to be eaten. The venomous spines of lionfish and other scorpionfish are used exclusively for defense. The potency of the venom varies by species, and effects can range from a strong irritation to very painful or even life-threatening reaction. Most stings in the aquarium happen accidentally, a result of the aquarist making contact with the spines while maintaining the tank. Feeding any animals in the tank by hand can increase the risk of being stung and is not recommended . Always be aware of where your lionfish or scorpionfish is when working in your aquarium, and seek medical attention immediately if a sting should occur. Visit That Fish Blog for more information from our on-staff marine biologists on Lionfish, Scorpionfish and other aquarium-related topics, including the trend of Lionfish as an Invasive Species in the Caribbean .

Coris gaimard "Yellowtail Coris Wrasse" - Small Adult

Fri, 23 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

As a juvenile, the Yellowtail Coris Wrasse ( Coris gaimard , also called the Red Coris Wrasse or African Coris Wrasse) is orange-red with 5 white spots outlined in black. The adult is greenish with blue spots on the sides and rear, a yellow tail, and a pink face decorated with green radiating lines and red fins. The intermediate adult phase is red in its head, darkening towards maroon at the rear, a bright yellow tail and blue spots over its entire body. Coris Wrasses spend much of their time buried in the substrate of the aquarium. They are best kept in tanks with fine to moderately-sized substrate without sharp edges that they can bury in without harming their bodies. Open spaces free of rockwork are required to give them room to bury. Most coris wrasses do not actively feed on corals but may nip at some polyps. They also have a habit of picking up and overturning pieces of rock and rubble while searching for small crustaceans, worms and other prey underneath them and should not be kept with corals that are not firmly secured. They may also nip at inverts like feather dusters. Some coris wrasses grow very large and, while juveniles may be safe in reef systems, large adults may be far more destructive. Though some coris wrasses may be difficult to get to feed at first, they will typically accept a wide range of food items like brine shrimp, mysis shrimp, some flakes and pellets, and live items like copepods and amphipods. They can be kept with most fish that are too large for them to eat but may prey on shrimp and some crabs. This is a Restricted item and is not covered by our Arrive Alive 5-Day Guarantee. Please visit the Guarantee Policy and Restricted Species webpages for more information.

Coris gaimard "Yellowtail Coris Wrasse" - Medium Adult

Fri, 23 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Cirrhitus pinnulatus "Stocky Hawkfish"

Fri, 23 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

The Stocky Hawkfish ( Cirrhitus pinnulatus ) is one of the larger species of hawkfish available. These fish are brown with a lighter underside and have darker brown and white spots or bands over their entire body. Hawkfish are generally hardy fish with tons of "personality". They do not have swim bladders like most other fish and can usually be found perching on the substrate or rockwork. When a potential meal or invaders to their territorial swims (or crawls) by, the hawkfish will swoop in like their avian namesakes. They are always alert and will "hop" from perch to perch to investigate their surroundings. These fish can be kept with most other tankmates in a community or reef aquarium. Aside from any irritation that their perching may cause, they will not bother or damage corals and stationary invertebrates. They will, however, prey on smaller tankmates and crustaceans like shrimp. Hawkfish are not picky eaters and will almost always act hungry. They can be fed a variety of size-appropriate meaty foods (various types of shrimp, scallop, krill, fish flesh, plankton, squid, etc.) and most will also accept prepared foods like flakes and pellets. Larger hawkfish can be given live ghost shrimp as an occasional treat.

Chiragra Mantis Shrimp - Gonodactylus chiragra - Male

Fri, 23 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Chiragra Mantis Shrimp - Gonodactylus chiragra - Male Mantis Shrimp have highly specialized care and requirements and can harm tankmates or the aquarist. For in-depth information on mantis shrimp care and research, please visit That Fish Blog for PART 1 and PART 2 of Frank Indiviglio's entry, Mantis Shrimp (Order:Stomatopoda) - Breaking Research and Care in Captivity . Mantis Shrimp are not traditional "shrimp" but are actually members of their own group known as Stomatopods. They are some of the most notorious "hitchhikers" that occassionally show up in a tank after hiding in live rock or corals. They have very powerful claws that can crush shells, split flesh or even crack aquarium glass (an acrylic tank is recommended). Mantis shrimp need meaty foods and will prey on tankmates. Mantis shrimp earn a bad reputation but they are fascinating creatures for a species-only aquarium. Individuals like this brightly colored specimen are attractive and make the perfect "pet" for an aquarist looking for a change from the norm! This is a Restricted item and is not covered by our Arrive Alive 5-Day Guarantee. Please visit the Guarantee Policy and Restricted Species webpages for more information.

Chaetodontoplus melanosoma "Black Velvet Angel" - Small Adult

Fri, 23 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

The Black Velvet Angel ( Chaetodontoplus melanosoma , also known as the Grey Poma Angel) is found in the Indo-Pacific region on mid-water reefs. Juvenile Black Velvet Angels are solid black, except for the yellow trim on the tail and fins, and a light patch located on the gill cover. Adults are black with a gray head and upper body, and a yellowish face. The tail and posterior end of the dorsal and anal fin are edged in yellow. The smaller angelfish and "pygmy angelfish" available in the aquarium trade include those from the genera Apolemichthys , Centropyge , Chaetodontoplus , Genicanthus , and a few others. Of these, Apolemichthys and Chaetodontoplus are generally the largest. Centropyge is the largest group and some fish have been separated into new species and genera in recent years. Suitable tankmates for most of these angels would be community fish like tangs, clownfish, damsels, gobies, blennies, butterflies and similar fish. More shy and passive angels can be kept with smaller, more docile tankmates. Angels should not be kept with other angels in the home aquarium to avoid territorial conflicts. Occasionally, two angels may tolerate one another in a very large aquarium if they have very different coloration and appearance, but is not typical. All angels have cheekspines at the edge of their gill cover and in the dorsal fin; use caution when handling and avoid using a net that they may become stuck or tangled in. The diet of angels generally consists of meaty foods and algaes. They can be fed a variety of frozen items like formulas, mysis shrimp, brine shrimp, scallops and others, as well as pellets, flakes, algae sheets and other foods. Many can be kept successfully in a reef, but use caution with any angels in a reef system, especially with polyps and SPS corals; some have been known to nip at the occasionally polyp, coral or clam mantle but not to the extent of the larger angel species. Angels from the Chaetodontoplus genus can be a greater risk than other smaller angels. Visit That Fish Blog for an Overview on Natural History and Care of Marine Angelfishes as well as a Species Profile on the Pygmy Angelfish and more from our marine biologists and aquatic staff.

Cephalopholis cyanostigma "Bluespotted Hind"

Fri, 23 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Cephalopholis cyanostigma "Bluespotted Hind" The Bluespotted Hind ( Cephalopholis cyanostigma ) is a brown grouper covered with small blue spots. Although Groupers and Hinds may be popular with seafood enthusiasts, many are also popular aquarium fish. Groupers and Hinds (terms that are sometimes used interchangeably) are usually found at or near the bottom and perch in, around or on rockwork and substrate. Groupers are predators and will eat almost anything small enough to fit into their (considerably sized) mouths, including small fish and invertebrates like shrimp and crabs. Feed a varied diet of frozen or fresh meaty items in the aquarium. Some fish may require live foods at first to trigger a feeding response but can usually be weaned onto frozen or prepared foods in time. Take care that all tankmates are getting fed, as more reclusive groupers may be outcompeted by more aggressive feeders, and some more aggressive groupers may eat more than their share and not allow other tankmates to feed. Most groupers will not eat or disturb corals and sessile (stationary) invertebrates but species that perch on surfaces may irritate or damage the corals by this behavior alone. Many of these fish also grow very large and need a very large aquarium with ample filtration to accomodate them.

Canthigaster valentini "Black Saddled Toby" - Large

Fri, 23 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

The Black Saddled Toby ( Canthigaster valentini , also known as the Valentini Sharpnose Puffer) is characterized by the 4 black "saddles" over its back. Light brown dots and lines cover the sides and face. The yellow tail is edged in black. There are a few other similar species, but the Black Saddled Toby is identified by the 2 middle saddles that extend to the belly; these saddles stop around the midline on most other species. Puffers are not too demanding in terms of care, but they need plenty of space and ample filtration to keep the water quality pristine. They're messy eaters, and the diet required for these fish can leave a lot of waste. Puffers have strong, ever-growing front teeth (beak) that they will need to wear down. They may chew on live rock in the tank to aid in the process. Feeding hard-shelled items, such as whole clams or shellfish, can also help to keep the teeth worn. "Toby Puffers" or "Sharpnose Puffers" ( Canthigaster sp. ) have a much different appearance than their larger relatives. These puffers stay much smaller - usually under about 5 inches in length - and have a pointed face. They are generally peaceful toward other fish, but will not tolerate other puffers. They also have a reputation for being "fin nippers", and should not be kept with invertebrates or with passive or showy-finned fish. Tobies are bold eaters that do best on a diet of frozen meaty foods like clams, mussels, squid, and shrimp (shells intact) as well as some algae. All puffers can be destructive inverts and corals so it is not recommended that they be housed in reef tanks. It is important to never provoke a puffer to see it inflate. Puffing is a stress or defense reaction, and it can cause health problems or even death for a puffer. The fish can swallow air or over-inflate with water, leading to even more stress as the fish attempted to recover and even death due to stress-related complications or internal injuries. If a puffer inflates, remove the source of the stress, lower the lighting on the tank and allow the fish to recover on its own. Avoid using a net or removing the puffer from the water and exposing it to air. Instead, transfer with rigid containers, which will minimize stress that can cause them to puff. Visit That Fish Blog for more information from our marine biologists on Pufferfish and other aquarium-related topics!

Bodianus diana "Diana Hogfish" - Juvenile

Fri, 23 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

The adult Diana Hogfish ( Bodianus diana ) is predominantly red with a golden color throughout the body. The fins are trimmed in red and four white spots are aligned below the dorsal fin.There are black spots on the ventral and anal fins. The juvenile Diana Hogfish is maroon with many white spots and blotches and a black spot on each fin. Subadults are changing from the juvenile to adult colorations and their coloration may vary depending on the progress of this color change. This is one of the more aggressive hogfish and may harass other tankmates. Hogfish are closely related to wrasses and behave in much the same manner. They are active swimmers and are best kept in a tank with plenty of room for them to swim. They also spend much of their time picking at rockwork in the search for tiny animals living within. Juveniles of many hogfish will act as "cleaner fish", picking parasites and dead scales off of other fish. This behavior ends or may become harmful to the recipient fish by the time the hogfish is an adult. Feed your hogfish a meaty variety of foods. They will normally accept most pellets, frozen formulas, shrimp, scallops and mussels. They can be housed with larger community tankmates like angels, tangs, damsels and some of the more peaceful triggers. Hogfish have been known to overturn corals while searching for food but most do not actively prey on corals; use caution when introducing hogfish into any reef system. They may prey on ornamental crustaceans like crabs and shrimp.

Blackbar Hogfish - Bodianus speciosus - Subadult

Fri, 23 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Blackbar Hogfish - Bodianus speciosus - Subadult The juvenile Blackbar Hogfish ( Bodianus speciosus ) is stunning in appearance with a light lavendar-purple body, black eyespot toward the rear of its dorsal, and a bright orange streak through its eyes and forehead. Adults are more reddish in color with a darker belt through its mid-section and a humphead. Hogfish are closely related to wrasses and behave in much the same manner. They are active swimmers and are best kept in a tank with plenty of room for them to swim. They also spend much of their time picking at rockwork in the search for tiny animals living within. Juveniles of many hogfish will act as "cleaner fish", picking parasites and dead scales off of other fish. This behavior ends or may become harmful to the recipient fish by the time the hogfish is an adult. Feed your hogfish a meaty variety of foods. They will normally accept most pellets, frozen formulas, shrimp, scallops and mussels. They can be housed with larger community tankmates like angels, tangs, damsels and some of the more peaceful triggers. Hogfish have been known to overturn corals while searching for food but most do not actively prey on corals; use caution when introducing hogfish into any reef system. They may prey on ornamental crustaceans like crabs and shrimp.

Barbonymus schwanenfeldii "Tinfoil Barb" - Medium

Fri, 23 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

The Tinfoil Barb is an active fish common to many home aquariums. Tinfoil Barbs may also develop reddish dorsal and tail fins. This fish will grow quite large (up to 14") and at adult size will need to be housed in an appropriately sized aquarium. They also need a diet that consists of large amounts of vegetative matter along with some vitamin enriched flake food or pellet food. They should readily accept both types of food. As they are primarily herbivorous, it is not recommended to place these fish in a planted aquarium.

Amblygobius decussatus "Orange-striped Goby"

Fri, 23 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

The Orange-striped Goby ( Amblygobius decussatus ) is also known as the Orange Square Goby or Decussatus Goby. It is normally white in coloration with orange lines running horizontally and vertically from head to tail, forming a grid-like pattern. "Hover Gobies" (genuses Amblygobius and Koumansetta ) are named for their behavior of hovering just above the substrate rather than perching on it like many other gobies. They are very similar to the group of gobies known as sandsifter or sleeper gobies (mostly genus Valenciennea ). They take mouthfuls of the substrate and sift it out through their gills, searching for food. This can help keep the substrate aerated, and may help prevent the build-up of organic debris that leads to high nitrate levels, algae, and cyanobacteria ("Red Slime Algae"). They should be kept in a tank with fine, soft substrate that will not damage their gills as they sift. They will eat a variety of frozen foods and possibly flake and pellet. Gobies prefer a tank with plenty of rocky hiding places. They get along with most tankmates, but can be aggressive toward other gobies. When startled or threatened, they have been known to jump out of uncovered aquariums. Always keep the tank covered and provide plenty of hiding places for this fish to retreat to. Visit That Fish Blog for more information from our marine biologists on Gobies and other aquarium-related topics!

Pocillopora damicornis "Green Damicornis Frag" (ORA)

Thu, 22 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

The Green Damicornis Frag has thick, rounded branches with green polyps. Pocillopora often resembles the slightly more stout cousin of Acropora. It grows in a similar branching style but with much their branches covered in tiny, fuzzy polyps. Most Pocillopora colonies are pink or purple but green, yellow and even violet-blue colonies are sometimes available. These corals typically need high lighting and strong water flow as well as pristine water quality to thrive in the home aquarium. This corals, like Acropora, can also play host to some small shrimps and crab that live within the branches so examine each colony thoroughly. While the "hitchhikers" usually do not damage the colony, the coral can become irritated if the hitchhiker becomes to large or aggressive. ORA Frags are propogated by Oceans, Reefs & Aquariums, the largest marine ornamental fish hatchery in the world. They continuously develop new frags and many are available in very limited quantities. We are proud to offer ORA's corals as part of our coral frag collection.

Patchie Knottie - Bear

Thu, 22 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Knotties gives your dog the fun of 6 squeakers, crinkle ears and knot arms attached to a super soft corduroy body. Tuffut construction stands up to your dog with up to 100 lbs of tugging. 13 in. x 11 in. x 4 in.

Montipora capricornis "Orange Capricornis Frag" (ORA)

Thu, 22 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Montipora capricornis "Orange Capricornis Frag" (ORA) The Orange Capricornis Frag is a lovely deep orange-red colony. Montipora corals are found in many types of reef environments. They can form branchy colonies in deeper waters or flat encrusting pllates in shallw, high energy environments. Many colors can also be found in this huge family. As home propogation becomes more popular, exotic color combinations are making their way into the trade alongside solid purple, green, brown, yellow and red colonies. Since montipora is found in many different environments, its needs vary between colonies. Generally speaking, they tend to prefer high lighting and water movement, especially vividly colored colonies. They will tolerate lower lighting, but tend to become more brown or dark green in color. ORA Frags are propogated by Oceans, Reefs & Aquariums, the largest marine ornamental fish hatchery in the world. They continuously develop new frags and many are available in very limited quantities. We are proud to offer ORA's corals as part of our coral frag collection.

MIMF Tricolor Acro Frag - Acropora sp. (ORA)

Thu, 22 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

MIMF Tricolor Acro Frag - Acropora sp. (ORA) Acropora is one of the most popular and easily recognisable corals in the aquarium trade. It is easy to propogate and, if given the proper conditions, not difficult to maintain. Lighting must be high and supplemental planktonic foods can be given occassionally. Trace minerals and calcium levels should also be kept high for proper skeletal formation. Flow should be indirect but moderately strong to help bring food to and carry waste away from the colony. With more than 350 documented species of acropora around the world, colors and formations are practically limitless. The same species can look vastly different depending on where it is growing on the reef. Colors can vary from browns to blue, green, or pinks. Most commonly kept in the aquarium trade are the neon green, blue and purple varieties. ORA Frags are propagated by Oceans, Reefs & Aquariums, the largest marine ornamental fish hatchery in the world. They continuously develop new frags and many are available in very limited quantities. "MIMF" frags are grown at the Marshall Islands Mariculture Farm on the island of Majuro. This facility opened in 2003 to grow giant clams and coral frags, including many that are exclusive to this small group of islands. We are proud to offer ORA's Marshall Island corals as part of our coral frag collection.

Little Feller Gray Squirrel - Small

Thu, 22 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Three bonded layers with extra reinforcement on stress points ensures durability.

Knotties Mini Raccoon Dog Toy - 9 in.

Thu, 22 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Knotties gives your dog the fun of 6 squeakers, crinkle ears and knot arms attached to a super soft corduroy body. Tuffut construction stands up to your dog with up to 100 lbs of tugging.

Hugglehounds Lil' Feller Possum Dog Toy - 6.5 in

Thu, 22 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

The Lil' Feller Possum is an excellent toy for both large and small breeds. Realistic fur and floppy, legs and tail make this toy your dog's new favorite. HuggleHounds Dog Toys are strong enough for the toughest chewer, but their soft feel and understuffed construction makes them easy to carry and cuddle. The 3-step, patented Tuffut Technology process makes each toy tough enough to withstand over 100 pounds of tugging and pulling power. Internal seams help to keep the soft, fuzzy shell intact.

Hugglehounds Large Blue Bugsy Dog Toy - 13 in.

Thu, 22 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Bugsy is an excellent toy for both large and small breeds. The plush corduroy outer shell is reinforces with a layer of durable rubber inside. Floppy legs and ears will make this toy your dog's new favorite. HuggleHounds Dog Toys are strong enough for the toughest chewer, but their soft feel and understuffed construction makes them easy to carry and cuddle. The 3-step, patented Tuffut Technology process makes each toy tough enough to withstand over 100 pounds of tugging and pulling power. Internal seams help to keep the soft, fuzzy shell intact.

Huggle Hounds Long and Lovely Lion Dog Toy - X Large - 26 in.

Thu, 22 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Long and Lovely Lion improves your dog's playtime with squeakers in his paws, legs and head. Tuffut construction also stands up to your dog with up to 100 lbs of tugging. A soft exterior even makes Lion great for napping.

Huggle Hounds Knotties Mini Bunny Dog Toy 9 in.

Thu, 22 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Knotties gives your dog the fun of 6 squeakers, crinkle ears and knot arms attached to a super soft corduroy body. Tuffut construction stands up to your dog with up to 100 lbs of tugging.

Huggle Hounds Knotties Bunny Dog Toy 14 in.

Thu, 22 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Knotties gives your dog the fun of 6 squeakers, crinkle ears and knot arms attached to a super soft corduroy body. Tuffut construction stands up to your dog with up to 100 lbs of tugging.

Huggle Hounds Crunchy Possey Dog Toy - Small

Thu, 22 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Crunchy Possey brings your dog irresistibly crunchy fun with a replaceable plastic water bottle holding body. Possey also improves tug of war with squeakers in his paws and bungee legs. Durable Tuffut construction stands up to 100 lbs. of tugging from your dog with three bonded layers and extra reinforced seams.

Huggle Hounds Crunchy Possey Dog Toy - Large

Thu, 22 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Harvey the Gray Rabbit - Small - 12 in.

Thu, 22 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Harvey can withstand over 100 lbs of tugging! Super soft on the outside and super tough on the inside. Understuffed for toting and tossing action. Two squeakers make this more enticing to your dog.

Derasa Clam - Tridacna derasa ?????? XLarge (ORA)

Thu, 22 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Derasa Clam - Tridacna derasa ?????½ XLarge (ORA) Clams are wonderful additions to any reef aquaria but do have some requirements that make them more difficult than other inverts to keep. Some research is recommended before purchasing one to find out what species will work the best in your reef aquarium. Derasa Clams ( Tridacna derasa ) can grow quite large in the home aquarium. They are typically found with yellow to gold striped mantle colorations outlined in blue or purple. Mantle patterns and colors will vary between individual specimens. Unlike most other species of clams, the Derasa Clam has a mostly smooth shell without prominent scutes. They generally have six or seven vertical folds but can have up to twelve. The shell itself is whitish and fan-shaped when small, becoming slightly more elongated as the clam grows. These clams are usually fairly thin at the top when closed and only slightly inflated towards the bottom. Derasa's are found on a variety of surfaces. They can grow within colonies of corals (especially Acropora corals) or on sandy flats, rubble piles or rock faces. They are usually found in fairly shallow waters but some have been found much deeper in areas with very clear water. The "byssal opening" where the foot and byssal threads are extended from on the bottom of the clam is very small on Derasa Clams. Young clams are only lightly attached and this attachment is lost as the clam grows. Some Derasa Clams have even been found with no byssal opening at all. The opening is more slot-like in shape rather than the elliptical or circular opening found on other clams. The top edge of this clam is symmetrical and the clam can close up very tightly. Derasa's are one of the hardiest Tridacna species. They require strong lighting and ideal water quality and should be placed under high direct light (Metal Halide, VHO, or Power Compact). Smaller clams rely heavily on planktonic foods filtered from the water for their nutrition. They should be fed regularly with various types of planktonic foods like phytoplankton, zooplankton, oyster eggs, rotifers and similar items. Avoid keeping with potential predators or tankmates that may nip at the clam's mantle like some wrasses, angelfish, crabs, and others. For more information on these and other clams, visit the Giant Clams Species Profile on That Fish Blog by our staff marine biologists. The clam pictured above is representative only - the coloration of the clam you receive may vary. Please contact the Livestock department for information on availability of specific colorations. ORA clams are propogated by Oceans, Reefs & Aquariums, the largest marine ornamental fish hatchery in the world. They continuously develop new frags, inverts and fish and many are available in very limited quantities. We are proud to offer ORA's clams as part of our collection.

Acropora millepora "Rose Millepora Frag" (ORA)

Thu, 22 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

ORA's aquacultured Rose Millepora has striking dark pink coloration and a fuzzy appearance when the polyps blossom. Millepora has antler-like growth habits and a unique arrangemant of tiny corallites. Acropora is one of the most popular and easily recognisable corals in the aquarium trade. It is easy to propogate and, if given the proper conditions, not difficult to maintain. Lighting must be high and supplemental planktonic foods can be given occassionally. Trace minerals and calcium levels should also be kept high for proper skeletal formation. Flow should be indirect but moderately strong to help bring food to and carry waste away from the colony. With more than 350 documented species of acropora around the world, colors and formations are practically limitless. The same species can look vastly different depending on where it is growing on the reef. Colors can vary from browns to blue, green, or pinks. Most commonly kept in the aquarium trade are the neon green, blue and purple varieties. ORA Frags are propogated by Oceans, Reefs & Aquariums, the largest marine ornamental fish hatchery in the world. They continuously develop new frags and many are available in very limited quantities. We are proud to offer ORA's corals as part of our coral frag collection.

Xiphophorus helleri "Pineapple Swordtail"

Tue, 20 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

The Pineapple Swordtail is a very attractive variation that has been developed due to selective breeding. It has a light yellow and orange body with a darker horizontal lines through the length of its body. Swordtails are a peaceful fish that should get along with everyone else in a community aquarium. Ideal tankmates for these fish are other livebearers like platies and guppies or peaceful barbs, tetras or danios. Male swordtails have a modified pointed anal fin known as a "gonopodium" while this fin is held fanned out in females. Mature male swordtails also have the namesake long "sword" on their tail fin. Swordtails are livebearers and if you have males and females, you are almost guaranteed they will breed, as long as water conditions are suitable. If you would like to raise some of the babies, it might be wise to separate the female into another tank at just about the time she is going to give birth, and then remove her as well once the babies are born, or they might become dinner. Swordtails can have about 20-30 babies at a time, almost once a month. This fish is not too picky about their diet, feed flake, freeze dried, and occasionally frozen- mysis, brine, and other small foods. They will thrive in planted tank and will cohabitate just fine with tetras, angels, and other community fish.

Xiphophorus helleri "Blue Swordtail"

Tue, 20 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Blue Swordtails are steel blue in color with variable light orange patches. Swordtails are a peaceful fish that should get along with everyone else in a community aquarium. Ideal tankmates for these fish are other livebearers like platies and guppies or peaceful barbs, tetras or danios. Male swordtails have a modified pointed anal fin known as a "gonopodium" while this fin is held fanned out in females. Mature male swordtails also have the namesake long "sword" on their tail fin. Swordtails are livebearers and if you have males and females, you are almost guaranteed they will breed, as long as water conditions are suitable. If you would like to raise some of the babies, it might be wise to separate the female into another tank at just about the time she is going to give birth, and then remove her as well once the babies are born, or they might become dinner. Swordtails can have about 20-30 babies at a time, almost once a month. This fish is not too picky about their diet, feed flake, freeze dried, and occasionally frozen- mysis, brine, and other small foods. They will thrive in planted tank and will cohabitate just fine with tetras, angels, and other community fish.

Upside-down Jellyfish - Cassiopea frondosa - XSmall

Tue, 20 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Upside-down Jellyfish - Cassiopea frondosa - XSmall The Upside-down Jellyfish does not float around in the water like other jellyfish. Instead, it sits upside-down on sandy flats and uses its tentacles to catch plankton and other free-floating foods. They are also photosynthetic to some degree and will use the algae in their tissue to product food from the lighting of the tank. These jellyfish benefit from target feedings of small foods like baby brine shrimp, cyclops, zooplankton, phytoplankton and dissolved nutrients. Lighting in the aquarium should be at least a moderate level with low flow. They also need an open sandy bottom to sit on and can reach an adult diameter of about ten inches. These jellyfish do have stinging cells on their tentacles that can sting other aquarium tankmates. The sting can also affect aquarists, especially those with sensitive skin or who are sensitive to other stinging animals like anemones. Avoid touching the tentacles of these jellyfish. This is a Restricted item and is not covered by our Arrive Alive 5-Day Guarantee. Please visit the Guarantee Policy and Restricted Species webpages for more information.

Siganus unimaculatus "Blotched Foxface" - Large

Tue, 20 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

The Blotched Foxface ( Siganus unimaculatus ) has a yellow body and white head with a black breast marking, a black bar extending from the snout to the dorsal, and a black spot on each flank. Another species, Siganus vulpinus , also has this same coloration but does not normally have the black spot on each flank. There is some debate within the scientific community over whether these are actually two different species or variations of the same species. S. vulpinus is usually simply referred to as "Foxface". These fish are generally peaceful toward other fish but may be aggressive toward other Rabbitfish and Foxfaces. They are timid by nature and will frighten easily, often taking on a mottled stress coloration. They are reef safe with caution as they may nibble on coral polyps if they are not kept well fed. Foxfaces and Rabbitfish are primarily herbivorous but may eat some meaty foods if green food is scarce. They need algae and other plant matter to remain healthy and do best on a diet consisting of live and dried algaes and supplements of frozen meaty foods. These fish are excellent algae eaters for aquariums large enough to accomodate them. Foxfaces and Rabbitfish have venomous dorsal and anal spines. These spines are used for defense and protection. They do not use their spines to attack or hunt, and most injuries occur when the aquarist bumps against the spines or is not careful while cleaning the tank or catching the fish.

Puntius tetrazona "Tiger Barb" - Large

Tue, 20 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Tiger barbs are the most popular of the barb species. The wild type is orange with several black vertical bars (like tiger stripes). The tips of the dorsal, ventral, and caudal fins may also be bright red (especially in breeding males). They are aggressive eaters and accept flake, small pellet, frozen and live worms, and brine shrimp. They can be aggressive towards long finned fish and should not be kept with angelfish, guppies, or bettas. They do best when kept in a school of six or more. Barbs are active swimmers and add a lot of life to the aquarium. Tiger barbs have been successfully raised in captivity, and several color varieties have been developed, including blonde and green.

Paraplesiops poweri "Power's Roundhead Grouper"

Tue, 20 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Power's Roundhead Grouper ( Paraplesiops poweri ) is rarely seen in the aquarium trade. Most of these fish are exported from Australia. They are related to other shy, small groupers like the Marine Betta and Assessors. This is a dark-colored fish with bright blue tips on the tips of its fins. The family Plesiopsidae gives us the Longfins, Roundhead, and Spiny Basslets - fish related to groupers but with a different appearance and temperament than many others seen within the hobby. In general, fish of this family are rock-dwellers. You are far more likely to find them under a rocky overhang or perching in a cave than in the open water and some fish like the Assessors even hang out upside-down most of the time. Longfins have long pectoral fins that they perch on like legs while they survey their surroundings. These fish are ambush predators, meaning they wait for their food to come to them before striking prey with lightning speed. They are generally peaceful towards fish and inverts too large for them to eat. Their coloration is usually subdued; most are dusky or dark colored with a few, subtle, colorful embellishments. The size range of these fish ranges as well, from the small Assessors to the moderately-sized Marine Bettas and Roundhead Groupers. These fish can be fed a varied meaty diet. Some may require live foods at first to trigger a feeding response but may be weaned onto frozen, fresh or prepared foods in time. Take care that all tankmates are getting fed, as more reclusive groupers may be outcompeted by more aggressive feeders, and some more aggressive groupers may eat more than their share and not allow other tankmates to feed. These fish should not be kept with very small fish or with crustaceans like crabs and shrimp. Visit That Fish Blog for more information from our marine biologists on Longfins and Devilfish and other aquarium-related topics!

Melanotaenia boesemani "Boeseman's Rainbowfish" - Small

Tue, 20 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Probably one of the most popular of the rainbowfish, the Boesemani Rainbow is quite colorful. While only silver in color as juveniles, these fish become quite stunning once adults (like the one pictured here). With a brilliant orange-red back half and a silvery-gold front half, it is easy to understand how "Rainbowfish" get their name. The Boesemani also features violet-blue vertical stripes on their front half, as well. Finnage ranges in coloration, usually tipped in white.As with most rainbowfish, the Boesemani has a double dorsal. Rainbows are active, peaceful fish that enjoys schooling, so it is best to keep in groups of 4 or more. They will do well in a peaceful community tank, as well as a slightly more aggressive tank. They aren't too fussy about tank decor but do very well in a planted tank. They will eat a variety of prepared foods including flake, granules, and frozen.

Hyphessobrycon ecuadorensis "Columbian Tetra"

Tue, 20 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Columbian Tetras are peaceful fish that can add color to most community tanks. They are silvery in color with a blue-green iridescent sheen. The fins are pink to red. Males have a hooked anal fin and usually have more colorful finnage. Columbian Tetras are schooling fish, and are best kept in groups of 6 or more. They are generally peaceful fish, and can be kept in most community aquariums. Provide a planted or otherwise decorated tank to allow some areas for hiding. They will nibble on soft-leaved plants, so use thick-leaved plants if keeping these fish with live vegetation. They will accept a variety of flake and pelleted foods. If some frozen meaty foods such as brine shrimp and bloodworms are included in the diet this will help to intensify their coloration.

Dianema longibarbis "Porthole Catfish"

Tue, 20 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Dianema longibarbis "Porthole Catfish" The Porthole Catfish ( Dianema longibarbis ) is a relatively peaceful catfish suitable for most freshwater community aquariums. They have elongated tan bodies with dark speckled markings. They have several whisker-like barbels on the front of their face which they use to sense their surroundings and search for food. These catfish get along fairly well with thier own kind and in a large aquarium can be kept in schools. They may prey on very small tankmates like fish fry or some invertebrates but they are usually compatible with slightly larger fish like livebearers, larger tetras, barbs and similar fish. They thrive in planted tanks that have lots of cover and places to hide. These catfish, like most others, are bottom feeders. They can be fed sinking pellets as well as foods like fresh and frozen bloodworms and blackworms.

Coral Beauty Pygmy Angel - Centropyge bispinosa - Large

Tue, 20 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Coral Beauty Pygmy Angel - Centropyge bispinosa - Large The Coral Beauty Pygmy Angel ( Centropyge bispinosa ) is one of the most popular pygmy angels. It has a deep purple-blue color with yellow-orange on its sides. The sides are also often striped with purple-blue lines and blue trim on the fins. The overall color of these fish is highly variable depending on the region and depth it was collected from. The smaller angelfish and "pygmy angelfish" available in the aquarium trade include those from the genera Apolemichthys , Centropyge , Chaetodontoplus , Genicanthus , and a few others. Of these, Apolemichthys and Chaetodontoplus are generally the largest. Centropyge is the largest group and some fish have been separated into new species and genera in recent years. Suitable tankmates for most of these angels would be community fish like tangs, clownfish, damsels, gobies, blennies, butterflies and similar fish. More shy and passive angels can be kept with smaller, more docile tankmates. Angels should not be kept with other angels in the home aquarium to avoid territorial conflicts. Occasionally, two angels may tolerate one another in a very large aquarium if they have very different coloration and appearance, but is not typical. All angels have cheekspines at the edge of their gill cover and in the dorsal fin; use caution when handling and avoid using a net that they may become stuck or tangled in. The diet of angels generally consists of meaty foods and algaes. They can be fed a variety of frozen items like formulas, mysis shrimp, brine shrimp, scallops and others, as well as pellets, flakes, algae sheets and other foods. Many can be kept successfully in a reef, but use caution with any angels in a reef system, especially with polyps and SPS corals; some have been known to nip at the occasionally polyp, coral or clam mantle but not to the extent of the larger angel species. Visit That Fish Blog for an Overview on Natural History and Care of Marine Angelfishes as well as a Species Profile on the Pygmy Angelfish and more from our marine biologists and aquatic staff.

Colisa lalia "Powder Blue Dwarf Gourami"

Tue, 20 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

The Powder Blue Dwarf Gourami is light metallic blue with red trim on its fins and broken red stripes throughout its body. This species stays smaller and more peaceful than many other common species and can be kept in community aquariums as small as 30 gallons. Gouramis have an internal organ called the labyrinth organ that allows them to breathe atmospheric air. This is an adaptation to the rice paddies and stagnant pools in which these fish often live. All gouramis also have the pelvic fins modified into long filaments that they can use to sense their surroundings. Gouramis are bubble nest breeders and the males will build floating nests out of bubbles that the eggs will be deposited into. Breeding is fairly simple. Male fish have the dorsal fin elongated into a point while females are short and rounded. They will accept a large variety of floating pellet and flake foods. Gouramis are generally suitable for planted aquariums as they will not damage the live plants. As they get larger they can become aggressive, particularly to other gouramis. Tank mates should be chosen to able to handle this aggression. They do well with barbs, loaches, large tetras, and semi-aggressive cichlids.

Boulengerella lateristriga "Striped Pike Characin"

Tue, 20 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

The striped pike, also known as the Striped Characin in some areas, is native to freshwater regions of Venezuela and Brazil. It has a long body with a wide brown/black stripe running along the midline. It's fins are very streamlined and set far back on its body. The striped pike is not highly aggressive but is a predator just the same. It often will only accept live food like guppies or minnows in the aquarium, but some individuals can be weaned onto prepared foods. These fish are best kept in their own aquarium as they have been known to attack most other tankmates. This characin is very sensitive to water quality and to changes in water chemistry. The tnak should be well filtered to keep the water in pristine condition and water changes should be done often and carefully. Plenty of live plants can help to keep the water clean. They will also provide cover and help to dim the lighting for the fish. These fish are known jumpers and a tight-fitting lid is recommended at all times.

Blue Spot Watchman Goby - Cryptocentrus pavonioides - Small

Tue, 20 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Blue Spot Watchman Goby - Cryptocentrus pavonioides - Small The Blue Spot Watchman Goby ( Cryptocentrus pavonioides ) has an orange-brown body, with small blue spots on the head and pale bands on the body. Watchman Gobies ( Cryptocentrus sp. ) are best known as part of the group of gobies known as "Shrimpgobies" or "Prawn Gobies". They form symbiotic relationships with certain pistol shrimp. These shrimp build and maintain a burrow for them both to live in, and the goby defends the lair and supplies food. Shrimpgobies are also minor sandsifters but will not sift as much as those generally referred to as "Sleeper Gobies" ( Valenciennea sp. ) or "Hover Gobies" ( Amblygobius sp. ). Watchman Gobies from the genus Cryptocentrus are similar to other shrimpgobies but generally get more aggressive, both towards other fish and, especially with larger fish, towards ornamental inverts like shrimp and crabs (except for their shrimp partner, if they have one). They are not as skinny in their body shape and have very large mouths. Avoid keeping Watchman Gobies with other shrimpgobies or in small tanks where their aggression may become more pronounced. These gobies will eat a variety of frozen foods and possibly flake and pellet. Gobies prefer a tank with plenty of rocky hiding places. They get along with most tankmates, but can be aggressive toward other gobies. Gobies are known jumpers; when startled or threatened, they have been known to jump out of uncovered aquariums. Always keep the tank covered and provide plenty of hiding places for this fish to retreat to. Visit That Fish Blog for more information from our marine biologists on Gobies , Pistol Shrimp and other aquarium-related topics!

Amphiprion ocellaris "Ocellaris Clownfish" - Small Tankraised

Tue, 20 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Amphiprion ocellaris "Ocellaris Clownfish" - Small Tankraised The Ocellaris Clownfish ( Amphiprion ocellaris ) is one of the most popular and well-known saltwater aquarium fish and has especially gained popularity since the release of Disney's "Finding Nemo". This clownfish has the appearance that most people think of for a clownfish - a bright orange body with three white bands narrowly outlined in black. Ocellaris Clownfish are very similar to Percula Clownfish ( A. percula ). Percula Clownfish have wider black margins to the white bands as they mature; younger individuals are almost indistinguishable between the two species. Many variations of the "natural" Ocellaris Clownfish exist, especially among tankraised individuals. Some of the most popular include "Misbars" (incomplete white bands), "Black" (dark brown or black color instead of orange), "Snowflake" (broad or irregular white bands), "Naked" (no white stripes), "Caramel" (a more brown color instead of orange), "Midnight" (black with no white bars) and combinations of these traits. Clownfish are some of the hardiest and most traditional fish for marine aquariums. They generally come from two genuses - most are in the genus Amphiprion with one species in the genus Premnas - and all are found in the Pomacentridae family along with damsels and chromises. They are some of the mostly widely tankraised fish, leading to more man-made variations becoming available like Misbars and Albinos as species are selectively bred and crossed. It is usually best to keep one clownfish per tank, though a pair can sometimes be kept if one is significantly smaller than the other or are about the same size when added as juveniles. One fish will develop into a female and become larger in size while the other (or others, in large tanks) will remain male. As the fish mature, they may also become aggressive towards new arrivals (or hands in the tank), so be prepared for aggression to follow even if the new fish is large in size. Mixing tankraised and wild-caught individuals is generally not recommended since their immunity and exposure to diseases and parasites may be different. Clownfish are generally not fussy eaters, and will accept a range of frozen and prepared foods like flakes, pellets, and frozen formulas. They can benefit from some plant matter in their diet, although they are not considered herbivores and do need some meaty foods. Some clownfish can be sensitive to toxins, especially heavy metal based medications like copper. Though the interaction between anemones and clownfish is amusing to watch, it is not necessary to the survival of either animal. Some clownfish will only host in specific anemones and vice versa. A host anemone should generally have a diameter of at least twice the length of the clownfish when introduced together for the best health of both the clownfish and the anemone. Tankraised fish can also be less likely to use a host anemone than wild-caught fish. Visit That Fish Blog for more information from our marine biologists on clownfish social structure and gender , anemone selection and preferences and other clownfish-related topics.

Acanthurus coeruleus "Atlantic Blue Tang" - Medium Juvenile

Tue, 20 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

The Atlantic Blue Tang ( Acanthurus coeruleus ) has a rounder body than most other oval-shaped Acanthurus tangs. As juveniles, they are yellow in color and become more violet-blue as they mature, although their social structure means that very small fish may have adult coloration while larger fish may still be juvenile. The tail is the last part of the fish to change. Both juvenile and adult fish have a yellow scalpel spine at the base of the tail. They are found mostly along the western Atlantic coast as well as the Ascension Islands closer to the African coast. Tangs and Surgeonfish are some of the most popular and common fish found in the aquarium trade. This group includes several genuses that can be associated with the various common name groups although "Surgeonfish" and "Tang" are often used interchangeably: Acanthurus ("Surgeonfish"), Naso ("Unicorn Tangs"), Ctenochaetus ("Bristletooth Tangs") and Zebrasoma ("Tangs"). They are found in almost every tropical oceans and in almost every color and pattern. The common names ???? 1/2surgeonfish???? 1/2 or "doctorfish" comes from the tiny scalpel-like spine at the base of the fish's tail. They use this spine as defense and will extend the spine if threatened. You may witness the tang shimmying up against another tang or fish; this is a sign of aggression as they may be using this spine to ward off the other fish. Always use caution when handling or netting a tang since this spine can become caught or cause injuries. Tangs and Surgeonfish are omnivores but a large part of the diet of most species consists of algae and plant matter. Tangs should also be given some meaty food to round out their diet. However, tangs that are fed primarily meaty foods over a long period of time are more likely to suffer from head and lateral line erosion (HLLE). HLLE disease in the short run is not fatal, but over time if the disease continues to progress the fish will stop eating and become lethargic and susceptible to other infections which may eventually contribute to its demise. The best treatment is prevention; maintain excellent water quality and feed a rich and varied diet. Supplementing with a multivitamin (A, D, E, B complex, and Iodine) may also help prevent further erosion. Tangs are generally community fish and get along with most other tankmates. Most do not bother corals and can actually help keep nuisance algae trimmed and under control, especially "Bristletooth Tangs" from the Ctenochaetus genus. Tangs may get territorial and aggressive towards similar tangs, so always use caution when keeping these fish together or with other fish that have a similar body shape or coloration. Visit That Fish Blog for more information on Tangs and Surgeonfish and other aquarium-related topics from our marine biologists and aquatic staff.

Panorama Wall Mount - 24 in.

Mon, 19 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Panorama Wall Mount - 24 in. Wall mount for the 24 in. Panorama Pro LED. Just add tools and the Panorama Fixture, and you???? 1/2re ready to go.

Panorama Wall Mount - 18 in.

Mon, 19 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Panorama Wall Mount - 18 in. Wall mount for the 18 in. Panorama Pro LED. Just add tools and the Panorama Fixture, and you???? 1/2re ready to go.

Panorama Tank Mount - 24 in.

Mon, 19 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Panorama Tank Mount - 24 in. Tank mount for the 24 in. Panorama Pro LED Fixture. Just add tools and the Panorama Fixture, and you???? 1/2re ready to go.

Panorama Tank Mount - 18 in.

Mon, 19 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Panorama Tank Mount - 18 in. Tank mount for the 18 in. Panorama Pro LED Fixture. Just add tools and the Panorama Fixture, and you???? 1/2re ready to go.

Ecoxotic Panorama Pro LED Fixture - 24 in.

Mon, 19 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Ecoxotic Panorama Pro LED Fixture - 24 in. The Ecoxotic Panorama Pro LED Fixture combines modular simplicity with contemporary style, creating a fantastically elegant and adaptable aquarium lighting system. Sleek, lightweight, and highly energy efficient, this system can be adjusted to almost any color spectrum or brightness you desire. Panorama Pro Fixtures are ideal LED lamps for growing full, healthy corals. 5 Panorama Pro modules make this fixture the only light you???? 1/2ll ever need. Each 19 watt Panorama LED module produces and unbelievable amount of light, shimmer, and color. Low profile design passively dissipates heat away from your aquarium, and since LEDs are already the coolest burning light available, you???? 1/2ll never have to worry about overheating. Install additional Panorama Pro Modules or Stunner LED strips to add some additional white, blue, or magenta or a RGB module for full spectrum. The color combinations and possibilities are endless. The modular design is completely adjustable in almost every aspect of intensity, penetration, brightness, color, and position. Inline dimmers control brightness, intensity and temperature of the white and blue LEDs. Move each independent LED module from left to right to find the ideal spread for any aquascape. Included, optional reflectors intensely concentrate light into aquarium. Installation is fast and easy. Mount with a Panorama Tank Mount or a Panorama Wall Mount . Patented hinged mounting systems give quick access to your aquarium, simply lift the fixture on its hinge. Modules are fully encapsulated to resist water damage and to eliminate dangerous stray voltage. Includes: Aluminum Panorama Pro Fixture (3) x 12,000K White/445nm Royal Blue Panorama Pro Modules (2) x 445nm Royal Blue Panorama Module (5) x Polished Panorama Pro Reflectors (2) x Inline Dimmers (2) x 60 watt transformers (3) x 2-way splitters EcoCham Cleaning Cloth Add cool, beneficial lighting effects to your aquarium without the extra cost on your electric bill. Unlike metal halide bulbs, LED lights are efficient, cool burning, quiet, and last up to 50,000 hours (that???? 1/2s over 5 years). Out of the box, the total power consumption is 95 watts and the spectrum appearance is 14,000K. Compared to a metal halide fixture of similar output, this unit consumes a fraction of the energy. LED fixtures are mercury free, have no bulbs to break, and are light as a feather (it weighs a mere 4 pounds!). Recyclable aluminum frame won???? 1/2t burden the environment when it???? 1/2s time to get a new fixture. LED lamps focus light energy, bringing colors and details you would never see with other lamps. The white and blue LED lights combine to create a deep, bright and shimmering effect anywhere in your tank. 12,000k lamps are crisp and bright white lights, ideal for growing corals, while 445nm royal blue lamps bring out magnificent color and detail. Measures 24 in. by 15 in. by 1.5 in. One 18 inch Panorama System covers an 18 to 24 inch wide aquarium. One 24 inch Panorama System covers a 24 to 36 inch wide aquarium. For larger aquarium lighting or for more information on sizing, click here . Check out our expert articles on That Fish Blog about the effectiveness and cost efficiency of LED l

Ecoxotic Panorama Pro LED Fixture - 18 in.

Mon, 19 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Ecoxotic Panorama Pro LED Fixture - 18 in. The Ecoxotic Panorama Pro LED Fixture combines modular simplicity with contemporary style, creating a fantastically elegant and adaptable aquarium lighting system. Sleek, lightweight, and highly energy efficient, this system can be adjusted to almost any color spectrum or brightness you desire. Panorama Pro Fixtures are ideal LED lamps for growing full, healthy corals. 3 Panorama Pro modules make this fixture the only light you???? 1/2ll ever need. Each 19 watt Panorama LED module produces and unbelievable amount of light, shimmer, and color. Low profile design passively dissipates heat away from your aquarium, and since LEDs are already the coolest burning light available, you???? 1/2ll never have to worry about overheating. Install additional Panorama Pro Modules or Stunner LED strips to add some additional white, blue, or magenta or a RGB module for full spectrum. The color combinations and possibilities are endless. The modular design is completely adjustable in almost every aspect of intensity, penetration, brightness, color, and position. Inline dimmers control brightness, intensity and temperature of the white and blue LEDs. Move each independent LED module from left to right to find the ideal spread for any aquascape. Included, optional reflectors intensely concentrate light into aquarium. Installation is fast and easy. Mount with a Panorama Tank Mount or a Panorama Wall Mount . Patented hinged mounting systems give quick access to your aquarium, simply lift the fixture on its hinge. Modules are fully encapsulated to resist water damage and to eliminate dangerous stray voltage. Includes: Aluminum Panorama Pro Fixture (2) x 12,000K White/445nm Royal Blue Panorama Pro Modules (1) x 445nm Royal Blue Panorama Module (3) x Polished Panorama Pro Reflectors (2) x Inline Dimmers (2) x 60 watt transformers (2) x 2-way splitters EcoCham Cleaning Cloth Add cool, beneficial lighting effects to your aquarium without the extra cost on your electric bill. Unlike metal halide bulbs, LED lights are efficient, cool burning, quiet, and last up to 50,000 hours (that???? 1/2s over 5 years). Out of the box, the total power consumption is 57 watts and the spectrum appearance is 14,000K. Compared to a metal halide fixture of similar output, this unit consumes a fraction of the energy. LED fixtures are mercury free, have no bulbs to break, and are light as a feather (it weighs a mere 4 pounds!). Recyclable aluminum frame won???? 1/2t burden the environment when it???? 1/2s time to get a new fixture. LED lamps focus light energy, bringing colors and details you would never see with other lamps. The white and blue LED lights combine to create a deep, bright and shimmering effect anywhere in your tank. 12,000k lamps are crisp and bright white lights, ideal for growing corals, while 445nm royal blue lamps bring out magnificent color and detail. Measures 18 in. by 15 in. by 1.5 in. One 18 inch Panorama System covers an 18 to 24 inch wide aquarium. One 24 inch Panorama System covers a 24 to 36 inch wide aquarium. For larger aquarium lighting or for more information on sizing, click here . Check out our expert articles on That Fish Blog about the effectiveness and cost efficiency of LED light

Coralife Turbo Twist UV Sterilizer - 6X - 18W

Mon, 19 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

The Coralife Turbo Twist 6X UV Sterilizer provides continuous ultraviolet sterilization. Revolutionary "turbo-twist" flow design triples dwell time around the lamp, vastly improving efficiency and eliminating single-cell algae that cause algal blooms. It also eradicates most harmful micro-organism on the initial pass through the chamber, decreasing the possibility of a disease outbreak in your aquatic system and ensuring that disease-causing pathogens cannot reproduce. The Turbo-Twist 6X treats up to 250 gallon saltwater or freshwater aquatic systems. Features a quartz glass sleeve with an 18 watt PL compact fluorescent UV Lamp. Double wall construction ensures long life. UV indicator light assures at a glance that lamp is working. The Turbo-Twist can be installed vertically outside the aquarium or sump using the included mounting brackets. It can also be installed in a horizontal position by attaching the bracket with screws to a fixed surface. Power cord: 10 ft. long

Coralife Turbo Twist UV Sterilizer - 3X - 9W

Mon, 19 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

The Coralife Turbo Twist 3X UV Sterilizer provides continuous ultraviolet sterilization. Revolutionary "turbo-twist" flow design triples dwell time around the lamp, vastly improving efficiency and eliminating single-cell algae that cause algal blooms. It also eradicates most harmful micro-organism on the initial pass through the chamber, decreasing the possibility of a disease outbreak in your aquatic system and ensuring that disease-causing pathogens cannot reproduce. The Turbo-Twist 3X treats up to 125 gallon saltwater or freshwater aquatic systems. Features a quartz glass sleeve with a 9 watt PL compact fluorescent UV Lamp. Double wall construction ensures long life. UV indicator light assures at a glance that lamp is working. The Turbo-Twist can be installed vertically outside the aquarium or sump using the included mounting brackets. It can also be installed in a horizontal position by attaching the bracket with screws to a fixed surface. Power cord: 10 ft. long Requires a water pump or powerhead with a flow rate of 100 to 200 gph.

Coralife Turbo Twist UV Sterilizer - 12X - 36W

Mon, 19 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

The Coralife Turbo Twist 12X UV Sterilizer provides continuous ultraviolet sterilization. Revolutionary "turbo-twist" flow design triples dwell time around the lamp, vastly improving efficiency and eliminating single-cell algae that cause algal blooms. It also eradicates most harmful micro-organism on the initial pass through the chamber, decreasing the possibility of a disease outbreak in your aquatic system and ensuring that disease-causing pathogens cannot reproduce. The Turbo-Twist 12X treats up to 500 gallon saltwater or freshwater aquatic systems. Features a quartz glass sleeve with a 36 watt PL compact fluorescent UV Lamp. Double wall construction ensures long life. UV indicator light assures at a glance that lamp is working. The Turbo-Twist can be installed vertically outside the aquarium or sump using the included mounting brackets. It can also be installed in a horizontal position by attaching the bracket with screws to a fixed surface. Power cord: 10 ft. long Requires a water pump or powerhead with a flow rate of 400 to 1200 gph.

Coralife Pond Turbo Twist UV Sterilizer - 6X - 18W

Mon, 19 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

The Coralife Turbo Twist Pond 6X UV Sterilizer provides continuous ultraviolet sterilization. Revolutionary "turbo-twist" flow design triples dwell time around the lamp, vastly improving efficiency and eliminating single-cell algae that cause algal blooms. It also eradicates most harmful micro-organism on the initial pass through the chamber, decreasing the possibility of a disease outbreak in your aquatic system and ensuring that disease-causing pathogens cannot reproduce. The Turbo-Twist 6X treats up to 4400 gallon saltwater or freshwater aquatic systems. Features a quartz glass sleeve with a 18 watt PL compact fluorescent UV Lamp. Double wall construction ensures long life. UV indicator light assures at a glance that lamp is working. Power cord: 10 ft. long Requires a water pump or powerhead with a flow rate of 200 to 400 gph.

Coralife Pond Turbo Twist UV Sterilizer - 3X - 9W

Mon, 19 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

The Coralife Turbo Twist Pond 3X UV Sterilizer provides continuous ultraviolet sterilization. Revolutionary "turbo-twist" flow design triples dwell time around the lamp, vastly improving efficiency and eliminating single-cell algae that cause algal blooms. It also eradicates most harmful micro-organism on the initial pass through the chamber, decreasing the possibility of a disease outbreak in your aquatic system and ensuring that disease-causing pathogens cannot reproduce. The Turbo-Twist 3X treats up to 2000 gallon pond systems. Features a quartz glass sleeve with a 9 watt PL compact fluorescent UV Lamp. Double wall construction ensures long life. UV indicator light assures at a glance that lamp is working. Power cord: 10 ft. long

Coralife Pond Turbo Twist UV Sterilizer - 12X - 36W

Mon, 19 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

The Coralife Turbo Twist Pond 12X UV Sterilizer provides continuous ultraviolet sterilization. Revolutionary "turbo-twist" flow design triples dwell time around the lamp, vastly improving efficiency and eliminating single-cell algae that cause algal blooms. It also eradicates most harmful micro-organism on the initial pass through the chamber, decreasing the possibility of a disease outbreak in your aquatic system and ensuring that disease-causing pathogens cannot reproduce. The Turbo-Twist 12X treats up to 8800 gallon saltwater or freshwater aquatic systems. Features a quartz glass sleeve with a 36 watt PL compact fluorescent UV Lamp. Double wall construction ensures long life. UV indicator light assures at a glance that lamp is working. Power cord: 10 ft. long

Zebrasoma scopas "Scopas Tang" - Medium

Fri, 16 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Scopas Tangs ( Zebrasoma scopas , also known as Brown Tangs) have a two-tone body that is light yellow-grey towards the front and dark-brown to black at the rear. The coloration is variable, particularly as the fish matures. Tangs and Surgeonfish are some of the most popular and common fish found in the aquarium trade. This group includes several genuses that can be associated with the various common name groups although "Surgeonfish" and "Tang" are often used interchangeably: Acanthurus ("Surgeonfish"), Naso ("Unicorn Tangs"), Ctenochaetus ("Bristletooth Tangs") and Zebrasoma ("Tangs"). They are found in almost every tropical oceans and in almost every color and pattern. The common names ???? 1/2surgeonfish???? 1/2 or "doctorfish" comes from the tiny scalpel-like spine at the base of the fish's tail. They use this spine as defense and will extend the spine if threatened. You may witness the tang shimmying up against another tang or fish; this is a sign of aggression as they may be using this spine to ward off the other fish. Always use caution when handling or netting a tang since this spine can become caught or cause injuries. Tangs and Surgeonfish are omnivores but a large part of the diet of most species consists of algae and plant matter. Tangs should also be given some meaty food to round out their diet. However, tangs that are fed primarily meaty foods over a long period of time are more likely to suffer from head and lateral line erosion (HLLE). HLLE disease in the short run is not fatal, but over time if the disease continues to progress the fish will stop eating and become lethargic and susceptible to other infections which may eventually contribute to its demise. The best treatment is prevention; maintain excellent water quality and feed a rich and varied diet. Supplementing with a multivitamin (A, D, E, B complex, and Iodine) may also help prevent further erosion. Tangs are generally community fish and get along with most other tankmates. Most do not bother corals and can actually help keep nuisance algae trimmed and under control, especially "Bristletooth Tangs" from the Ctenochaetus genus. Tangs may get territorial and aggressive towards similar tangs, so always use caution when keeping these fish together or with other fish that have a similar body shape or coloration. Visit That Fish Blog for more information on Tangs and Surgeonfish and other aquarium-related topics from our marine biologists and aquatic staff.

Symphysodon aequifasciatus "Snow White Discus"

Fri, 16 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Pond Logic PondWeed Defense - 1 Gallon

Fri, 16 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Airmax PondWeed Defense is a safe, restriction free herbicide treatment for ponds. It???? 1/2s completely safe for use in lakes, home ponds, potable water reservoirs, game fish ponds, and recreational water. Fast acting formula treats floating and submerged coontail, elodea, hydrilla, milfoil and pondweed. Mixed with pond water and sprayed directly onto target weeds for fast acting results. 1 gallon treats up to 2500 square feet of water. Made in the USA. Please call customer service to determine shipping costs at 1-888-THAT PET. Item is dropshipped directly from the manufacturer.

Pond Logic PondShelter Net - 14 ft. x 14 ft.

Fri, 16 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

The Pond Logic PondShelter Net fits snuggly around the perimeter of your pond to keep pesky predators and leaves out. Adjustable legs fit to any terrain and 30 provided stakes secure it to the ground. Rugged rust-proof aluminum frame and tough black mesh netting are guaranteed not to collapse. Adjusts to countless configurations to meet the needs of any terrain. After you???? 1/2ve adjusted it to size and staked it down, pull the drawstring tightly to secure your pond. Please call customer service to determine shipping costs at 1-888-THAT PET. Item is dropshipped directly from the manufacturer.

Pond Logic Floating Pond Thermometer - 2 in. diameter x 7 1/2 in.

Fri, 16 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

The Pond Logic Floating Pond Thermometer has 3 colored zones for gauging feeding temperatures and readings at a glance. Floating thermometer reads Fahrenheit and Celsius from 20 F to 120 F. Tethered by a 6 foot rope. Makes temperature readings fast and easy. Please call customer service to determine shipping costs at 1-888-THAT PET. Item is dropshipped directly from the manufacturer.

Pond Logic Cide-Kick - 16 oz.

Fri, 16 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Airmax Cide-Kick boosts the wetting, sticking, penetrating, and overall effectiveness of your algaecide and herbicide. A byproduct of citrus, this low viscosity oil breaks down the water tension and waxy cuticle on leaves and bark that typically protects plants from algaecides and herbicides. It???? 1/2s completely safe and has no use restrictions. Airmax Cide-Kick is a wetting agent, penetrant, and activator all in one. Made in the USA. Please call customer service to determine shipping costs at 1-888-THAT PET. Item is dropshipped directly from the manufacturer.

Pond Logic Algae Defense - 1 Gallon

Fri, 16 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Airmax Algae Defense is a safe, restriction free algae treatment for ponds. It???? 1/2s completely safe for use in lakes, home ponds, potable water reservoirs, game fish ponds, drinking/irrigation water, and recreational water. Fast acting formula treats harmful free floating and bottom forming algae and chara. 1 gallon treats up to 8000 square feet of water. Made in the USA. Please call customer service to determine shipping costs at 1-888-THAT PET. Item is dropshipped directly from the manufacturer.

Picasso Clownfish - Amphiprion percula - Small Tankraised

Fri, 16 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Picasso Clownfish - Amphiprion percula - Small Tankraised The Picasso Clownfish is a tankraised color variation of the common Percula Clownfish. This variety is extremely rare! The white bars and black margins are extended into irregular patches and may even cover most of the fish's trademark orange body. No two Picasso Clownfish are identical and quantities are extremely limited. The Percula Clownfish ( Amphiprion percula ) closely resembles the Ocellaris Clown ( A. ocellaris ) of "Finding Nemo" fame. Both have a bright orange coloration and three white stripes with black margins. Percula Clownfish have wider black margins to the white bands as they mature; these margins may eventually extend to cover most of the orange in the fish's body, especially in individuals from some geographic regions like Papua/New Guinea. Tankraised fish tend to have less black even as adults and are almost identical to Ocellaris Clownfish; younger individuals are almost indistinguishable between the two species. Clownfish are some of the hardiest and most traditional fish for marine aquariums. They generally come from two genuses - most are in the genus Amphiprion with one species in the genus Premnas - and all are found in the Pomacentridae family along with damsels and chromises. They are some of the mostly widely tankraised fish, leading to more man-made variations becoming available like Misbars and Albinos as species are selectively bred and crossed. It is usually best to keep one clownfish per tank, though a pair can sometimes be kept if one is significantly smaller than the other or are about the same size when added as juveniles. One fish will develop into a female and become larger in size while the other (or others, in large tanks) will remain male. As the fish mature, they may also become aggressive towards new arrivals (or hands in the tank), so be prepared for aggression to follow even if the new fish is large in size. Mixing tankraised and wild-caught individuals is generally not recommended since their immunity to diseases and parasites may be different. Clownfish are generally not fussy eaters, and will accept a range of frozen and prepared foods like flakes, pellets, and frozen formulas. They can benefit from some plant matter in their diet, although they are not considered herbivores and do need some meaty foods. Some clownfish can be sensitive to toxins, especially heavy metal based medications like copper. Though the interaction between anemones and clownfish is amusing to watch, it is not necessary to the survival of either animal. Some clownfish will only host in specific anemones and vice versa. A host anemone should generally have a diameter of at least twice the length of the clownfish when introduced together. Tankraised fish can also be less likely to use a host anemone than wild-caught fish. Visit That Fish Blog for more information from our marine biologists on clownfish social structure and gender , anemone selection and preferences and other clownfish-related topics.

Paracheilinus filamentosus "Filamented Flasher Wrasse" - Small Adult

Fri, 16 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Juvenile Filamented Flasher Wrasses ( Paracheilinus filamentosus ) are generally pink with lighter undersides but grow into brilliantly colored adults. Though males are generally brighter with longer finnage, females of this species are also very colorful. Both have a reddish base color but may have some yellow in their body as well. Alternating dorsal fin rays are very long and can have red, purple, orange and yellow. The tips of the caudal fins are also elongated, giving it a crescent-like shape. The body normally has purple or reddish horizontal stripes as well. This species is very variable with numerous regional variations, and it has also been known to cross-breed with other species, leading to a slightly different appearance. Fairy Wrasses ( Cirrhilabrus sp. ) and Flasher Wrasses ( Paracheilinus sp. ) have a generally placid temperament and tolerate most tankmates, provided that they have plenty of places to escape to and hide to feel secure. Flasher Wrasses tend to be more active and outgoing than Fairy Wrasses and the two groups may be aggressive towards each other. Males of both groups are usually brighter in color than juveniles and females, and males will show their colors and behavior to the best advantage in the presence of a female. Regional variations and cross-breeding within each groups can make identification difficult. Both Fairy and Flasher wrasses can usually be found around rubble piles and rockwork and should have plenty in the tank to retreat to. These wrasses are perfect for reef aquariums. Most will not harm corals, polyps or most invertebrates but should not be kept with very small crustaceans like Sexy Shrimp. These fish are known jumpers, so the tank should be covered at all times. These wrasses will usually accept most types of small foods once acclimated. They can be fed a varied diet of flakes, frozen and fresh foods like copepods, Cyclops, brine shrimp, mysis shrimp and similar items.

Ocellaris Clownfish - Amphiprion ocellaris - Large

Fri, 16 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Ocellaris Clownfish - Amphiprion ocellaris - Large The Ocellaris Clownfish ( Amphiprion ocellaris ) is one of the most popular and well-known saltwater aquarium fish and has especially gained popularity since the release of Disney's "Finding Nemo". This clownfish has the appearance that most people think of for a clownfish - a bright orange body with three white bands narrowly outlined in black. Ocellaris Clownfish are very similar to Percula Clownfish ( A. percula ). Percula Clownfish have wider black margins to the white bands as they mature; younger individuals are almost indistinguishable between the two species. Many variations of the "natural" Ocellaris Clownfish exist, especially among tankraised individuals. Some of the most popular include "Misbars" (incomplete white bands), "Black" (dark brown or black color instead of orange), "Snowflake" (broad or irregular white bands), "Naked" (no white stripes), "Caramel" (a more brown color instead of orange), "Midnight" (black with no white bars) and combinations of these traits. Clownfish are some of the hardiest and most traditional fish for marine aquariums. They generally come from two genuses - most are in the genus Amphiprion with one species in the genus Premnas - and all are found in the Pomacentridae family along with damsels and chromises. They are some of the mostly widely tankraised fish, leading to more man-made variations becoming available like Misbars and Albinos as species are selectively bred and crossed. It is usually best to keep one clownfish per tank, though a pair can sometimes be kept if one is significantly smaller than the other or are about the same size when added as juveniles. One fish will develop into a female and become larger in size while the other (or others, in large tanks) will remain male. As the fish mature, they may also become aggressive towards new arrivals (or hands in the tank), so be prepared for aggression to follow even if the new fish is large in size. Mixing tankraised and wild-caught individuals is generally not recommended since their immunity and exposure to diseases and parasites may be different. Clownfish are generally not fussy eaters, and will accept a range of frozen and prepared foods like flakes, pellets, and frozen formulas. They can benefit from some plant matter in their diet, although they are not considered herbivores and do need some meaty foods. Some clownfish can be sensitive to toxins, especially heavy metal based medications like copper. Though the interaction between anemones and clownfish is amusing to watch, it is not necessary to the survival of either animal. Some clownfish will only host in specific anemones and vice versa. A host anemone should generally have a diameter of at least twice the length of the clownfish when introduced together for the best health of both the clownfish and the anemone. Tankraised fish can also be less likely to use a host anemone than wild-caught fish. Visit That Fish Blog for more information from our marine biologists on clownfish social structure and gender , anemone selection and preferences and other clownfish-related topics.

Mespilia globulus "Tuxedo Urchin" - Small

Fri, 16 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

The Tuxedo Urchin ( Mespilia globulus ) is compact and colorful. The spines are fine and arranged into five sections. The bare sections between the spines are usually blue, olive, or black in contrast to the orange-brown spines. Urchins are grazers that will roam about the tank searching for food and algae on the substrate and rockwork. Most will not actively eat corals, but some delicate corals may be damaged if the urchin crawls on top of them or knocks them over. Urchins may also occassionally feed on coralline algae that some aquarists may be trying to promote. If algae levels in the aquarium are low, urchins can be fed by attaching algae sheets to a piece of rock with a clip or rubber band. Some urchins are venomous, but most species are harmless to aquarists. The most common injuries from urchins happens when the aquarists bumps against an urchin and gets poked by its spines. Spines can become broken off in the skin, especially with thinner-spined urchins, so always take care around your urchin to avoid injuring it or yourself.

Laguna Air Pump Kit - 18.5 GPM

Fri, 16 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

A Laguna Air Pump Kit keeps your pond oxygenated during the hotter months and prevents freezing through the winter. Low wattage, energy efficient 18.5 GPM pump provides a constant supply of healthy, fresh air, providing fresh oxygen and releasing harmful gas. Super quiet operation keeps your backyard a serene paradise. Max operating depth of 11.5 feet. For ponds up to 7000 gallons. Kit includes: 50-Watt Air Pump Two air stones (100 mm diameter) Chrome-coated metal manifold 16???? 1/2 and 4???? 1/2 of air tubing (4 mm diameter)

Laguna Air Pump Kit - 13 GPM

Fri, 16 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

A Laguna Air Pump Kit keeps your pond oxygenated during the hotter months and prevents freezing through the winter. Low wattage, energy efficient 13 GPM pump provides a constant supply of healthy, fresh air, providing fresh oxygen and releasing harmful gas. Super quiet operation keeps your backyard a serene paradise. Max operating depth of 9 feet. For ponds up to 5000 gallons. Kit includes: 35-Watt Air Pump Air stone (100 mm diameter) Chrome-coated metal manifold 16???? 1/2 and 4???? 1/2 of air tubing (4 mm diameter)

Hypselecara temporalis "Chocolate Cichlid" - Subadult

Fri, 16 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

This interesting looking cichlid has a very high forehead, making it appear almost square in shape. Coloration is generally dull, with a red throat and eyes. This species is relatively peaceful with other mild-mannered tankmates, and will only be slightly aggressive with conspecifics. Decor can be simple: rocks, driftwood, plants, etc. Feed a variety of foods- meaty frozen items, a decent flake, pellet, etc. This species is a substrate spawner.

Hygrophila angustifolia

Fri, 16 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Hygrophila angustifolia Hygrophila angustifolia is also known as a cultivated variety of the more common H. corymbosa ( H. corymbosa 'angustifolia' ). It has long narrow leaves on its thin stems and will sway with gentle water flow. It is one of the less common Hygrophila species available to aquarists. Bunched plants are typically sold as cuttings that are bound together with a metal plant weight or rubber bands. These individual stalks can be planted by inserting the end of the stalk into the substrate, either individually or - with some plants - in groupings of several stalks. Most bunch plants do not have roots but may grow roots in time. They can be easily pruned by trimming the stalk at the desired height. The trimmings can then be planted as well if desired. Some bunched plants do not need to be planted and may be allowed to float on the water's surface.

Heniochus chrysostomus "Pennant Bannerfish"

Fri, 16 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

The Pennant Bannerfish ( Heniochus chrysostomus ) is white with three wide, dark bands through the face, body, and rear. The snout is yellow, and the tall, front dorsal spines have a feathery appearance. Butterflyfish consist of a large number of fish found in the aquarium trade from the Chaetodon , Chelmon , Forcipiger , and Heniochus genuses, among others from the family Chaetodontidae . The family ranges in length from 3 inches up to close to 12 inches in length. Butterflies are usually roughly oval in body shape but longer fins make some appear elliptical or diamond-shaped. They resemble and are sometimes confused with angelfish (family Pomacentridae ) but angelfish have a cheekspine that is not found in butterflies. Butterflies are generally community fish in nature. Though some more pugnatious species may terrorize smaller or more docile fish, most can be kept with a wide range of community tankmates. Most butterfly species are not "reef safe" and will eat corals and polyps. In fact, some more delicate butterflies require corals as part of their natural diet. Butterflies may also harm smaller crustaceans (crabs and shrimp) and may pick at inverts like clams, feather dusters, anemones and similar tankmates. Use caution when introducing a butterfly into a tank with inverts; though some are considered "reef safe" by some aquarists, any butterfly may pose a risk to corals and inverts. The diet of butterflies can vary, as mentioned, based on what they normally eat in the wild. Some very picky species only pick at coral flesh and can be difficult to wean onto an aquarium-based diet. A very varied diet of algaes and meaty items like brine shrimp, mysis shrimp, scallops, clam, corals, sponges and other items is best. Vitamin supplements can also help get the butterflies all the nutrition they require. While some butterflies are very hardy and suitable for aquarists of all levels, more sensitive species should be attempted by experienced aquarists only.

Coris aygula "Clown Coris Wrasse" - Small Juvenile

Fri, 16 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

The juvenile Clown Coris Wrasse ( Coris aygula ) is white with black dots on the forebody. There are two white-ringed black spots on the dorsal fin with orange spots on the body beneath them. The fins and tail have black markings as well. Adults grow very large and lose this coloration, becoming dark green-black with a light green or white belt. Coris Wrasses spend much of their time buried in the substrate of the aquarium. They are best kept in tanks with fine to moderately-sized substrate without sharp edges that they can bury in without harming their bodies. Open spaces free of rockwork are required to give them room to bury. Most coris wrasses do not actively feed on corals but may nip at some polyps. They also have a habit of picking up and overturning pieces of rock and rubble while searching for small crustaceans, worms and other prey underneath them and should not be kept with corals that are not firmly secured. They may also nip at inverts like feather dusters. Some coris wrasses grow very large and, while juveniles may be safe in reef systems, large adults may be far more destructive. Though some coris wrasses may be difficult to get to feed at first, they will typically accept a wide range of food items like brine shrimp, mysis shrimp, some flakes and pellets, and live items like copepods and amphipods. They can be kept with most fish that are too large for them to eat but may prey on shrimp and some crabs. This is a Restricted item and is not covered by our Arrive Alive 5-Day Guarantee. Please visit the Guarantee Policy and Restricted Species webpages for more information.

Capnella sp. "Kenya Tree Coral" - Large

Fri, 16 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Kenya Tree Corals ( Capnella sp. ) are so named because of their very tree-like appearance. They usually have greyish "trunks" with brown or, less commonly, green "leaves". These "leaves" - the polyps of the coral - are larger than most other similar corals. The coral itself has a sandpaper-like texture as opposed to the slippery feel of some similar corals. Kenya Tree Corals are one of the easiest leather corals. They adapt well to most conditions, although they will have brighter colors under more intense lighting. They receive some of their nutrition from the photosynthetic algae in their tissues but will also filter-feed and absorb some nutrients and minerals from the water. The corals should be supplements with planktonic filter-feeder foods, especially under less intense lighting. Capnella corals tend to be less aggressive than other leathers. They do shed a layer of their mucus periodically and can irritate some other sensitive corals - particularly large-polyped stony corals - so they should not be placed close together. Colonies can also grow very large fairly quickly under ideal conditions. Kenya Tree Corals do best in moderate flow but can tolerate higher conditions. These corals are easy to propagate and "frag" in home aquariums. A piece of the colony can be cut off with a sharp blade or shears and allowed to re-attach to a hard base like a frag plug, piece of rubble rock or shell. Reduce the flow around the new frag until it attaches or use a piece of netting or fishing line to help the new piece stay in place.

Boraras maculatus "Dwarf Rasbora"

Fri, 16 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Boraras maculatus "Dwarf Rasbora" Also known as the Pygmy or Spotted Rasbora, the Dwarf Rasbora can be found in slow-moving, lush, overgrown rivers in Borneo, Sumatra, and other regions of Southeast Asia. One of the tiniest of all available aquarium species, the Dwarf Rasbora features a brick-red to pink coloration with a noticable black spot right in the middle of its body, as well as preceding the caudal and anal fins. Fins are usually translucent with a slight pink tint. Rasboras are a fine community fish, doing well in schools. They are peaceful and should get along with any other small fish like tetras, rainbows, and other docile species. They will accept a variety of foods, from flake to small frozen selections. They are relatively easy to keep and fare very well in a planted aquarium.

Black Painted Frogfish - Antennarius pictus - Small/Medium

Fri, 16 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Black Painted Frogfish - Antennarius pictus - Small/Medium The Painted Frogfish ( Antennarius pictus ) is highly variable in coloration and can be many colors and combinations of colors. Two of the most common in the aquarium trade are a solid black color with white fin tips and a bright red-orange color morph. This species is identified by a long, broad lure that can be up to twice as long as the dorsal spine behind it and has small, compressed appendages extending off of it. It also has some warty bumps on its body and usually has three spots on its tail. The common names "Anglerfish" and "Frogfish" are often used interchangeably. The fish available to the aquarium trade are very different from the deepwater Anglers featured in Disney's "Finding Nemo" that use a bright light to lure their prey. The Frogfish and Anglerfish for aquariums are found around reefs and rockwork where they blend in to ambush their prey. Like their deepwater counterparts, they do use a lure to attract prey but their lure looks more like a pom-pom or worm, depending on the species. These fish are often difficult to identify down to an exact species because of their very high variation in colors and patterns. They can also often change color and pattern to better blend in with their surroundings. With a few distinctive exceptions, most are extremely variable and may be different than the example pictured here. Anglers and Frogfish are ambush predators and can eat almost anything small enough to fit into their (very large) mouths. This can include other fish as well as inverts like crabs, shrimp and others. Use caution when choosing tankmates. These fish are not very active and can be kept in a fairly small tank (depending on species) and can be kept alone as a "species-only" showcase. They will typically eat almost any meaty foods offered but may only accept live items at first. Though they should be weaned onto frozen at some point, live ghost shrimp, mollies, guppies and similar items can be used at first. Eventually, they can be trained to accept frozen clam, squid, shrimp, krill and similar items. It is not unusual for these fish to fast the first few days to even weeks once introduced to a new environment or after a particularly large feeding. Visit That Fish Blog for an Anglerfish Species Profile and information on Anglerfish Breeding Habits from our on-staff marine biologists!

Beefeaters Sweet Potato & Pighide Lollipop- 6 in.

Fri, 16 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Bring the Holiday spirit into snack time with a Beefeater Sweet Potato & Pighide Lollipop. Natural sweet potato and pig hide combine to create a remarkably tasty snack. Fun shaped chews keep your pet entertained for hours. Great as a stocking stuffer!

Amphiprion ocellaris "Ocellaris Clownfish" - Medium

Fri, 16 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

The Ocellaris Clownfish ( Amphiprion ocellaris ) is one of the most popular and well-known saltwater aquarium fish and has especially gained popularity since the release of Disney's "Finding Nemo". This clownfish has the appearance that most people think of for a clownfish - a bright orange body with three white bands narrowly outlined in black. Ocellaris Clownfish are very similar to Percula Clownfish ( A. percula ). Percula Clownfish have wider black margins to the white bands as they mature; younger individuals are almost indistinguishable between the two species. Many variations of the "natural" Ocellaris Clownfish exist, especially among tankraised individuals. Some of the most popular include "Misbars" (incomplete white bands), "Black" (dark brown or black color instead of orange), "Snowflake" (broad or irregular white bands), "Naked" (no white stripes), "Caramel" (a more brown color instead of orange), "Midnight" (black with no white bars) and combinations of these traits. Clownfish are some of the hardiest and most traditional fish for marine aquariums. They generally come from two genuses - most are in the genus Amphiprion with one species in the genus Premnas - and all are found in the Pomacentridae family along with damsels and chromises. They are some of the mostly widely tankraised fish, leading to more man-made variations becoming available like Misbars and Albinos as species are selectively bred and crossed. It is usually best to keep one clownfish per tank, though a pair can sometimes be kept if one is significantly smaller than the other or are about the same size when added as juveniles. One fish will develop into a female and become larger in size while the other (or others, in large tanks) will remain male. As the fish mature, they may also become aggressive towards new arrivals (or hands in the tank), so be prepared for aggression to follow even if the new fish is large in size. Mixing tankraised and wild-caught individuals is generally not recommended since their immunity and exposure to diseases and parasites may be different. Clownfish are generally not fussy eaters, and will accept a range of frozen and prepared foods like flakes, pellets, and frozen formulas. They can benefit from some plant matter in their diet, although they are not considered herbivores and do need some meaty foods. Some clownfish can be sensitive to toxins, especially heavy metal based medications like copper. Though the interaction between anemones and clownfish is amusing to watch, it is not necessary to the survival of either animal. Some clownfish will only host in specific anemones and vice versa. A host anemone should generally have a diameter of at least twice the length of the clownfish when introduced together for the best health of both the clownfish and the anemone. Tankraised fish can also be less likely to use a host anemone than wild-caught fish. Visit That Fish Blog for more information from our marine biologists on clownfish social structure and gender , anemone selection and preferences and other clownfish-related topics.

Airmax Carbonate Hardness Test Strip

Fri, 16 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Water hardness plays an important role when it comes to pH and alkalinity levels, so it???? 1/2s essential to track and control. Airmax Carbonate Hardness Test Strips are quick and easy to use, just dip into water for 3 seconds and color indicates hardness level. Tests pond water hardness from 0 to 1000 ppm. Contains 1 test strip. Please call customer service to determine shipping costs at 1-888-THAT PET. Item is dropshipped directly from the manufacturer.

Tennis Tummies - Tiger - Medium - 14 in.

Thu, 15 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Your dog loves tennis balls and plushies. Now give him two of his favorite things in one toy! These adorable characters have tennis ball tummies and floppy plush head and limbs. Easy to carry, toss and fetch.

Macropodus opercularis "Albino Paradise Fish"

Thu, 15 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Paradise Fish are relatives of gouramis and bettas that are excellent additions to the community aquarium. They have white bodies with red eyes and some red markings on their bodies. This is the original pet tropical fish; it is one of the first fish to be kept in an aquarium. Paradise fish are very hardy, and will tolerate a wide variety of water conditions. Paradise fish are anabantids, and have a labyrinth organ that allows them to breathe atmospheric oxygen. They prefer slow-moving water. They are not picky eaters, and will accept almost any foods they are offered. Paradise fish have been known to be territorial, so be careful when keeping them in a community aquarium as they may harass small or timid fish. They are best kept in a species tank or with medium to large, hardy community species. They are also notorious jumpers, so be sure you have a tight-fitting lid!

Dental Chews For Small Dogs - 24 pk

Thu, 15 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

These chews are a great way to keep your dog's teeth clean and breath fresh and makes dental care a treat. The patented dual-enzyme formula attacks the bacteria that cause plaque and your dog's natural chewing action helps loosen tartar. They are so effective that they are veterinarian approved.

Acropora sp. "Assorted Acro Frag" - Medium

Thu, 15 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Acropora is one of the most popular and easily recognisable corals in the aquarium trade. It is easy to propogate and, if given the proper conditions, not difficult to maintain. Lighting must be high and supplemental planktonic foods can be given occassionally. Trace minerals and calcium levels should also be kept high for proper skeletal formation. Flow should be indirect but moderately strong to help bring food to and carry waste away from the colony. With more than 350 documented species of acropora around the world, colors and formations are practically limitless. The same species can look vastly different depending on where it is growing on the reef. Colors can vary from browns to blue, green, or pinks. Most commonly kept in the aquarium trade are the neon green, blue and purple varieties.

Hemichromis guttatus "Jewel Cichlid" - Small

Wed, 14 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

This cichlid from rivers and tributaries in forests from Guinea to Liberia. It is quite aggressive for its size. It is attractive, with a bright red-pink coloration and rows of iridescent blue spots along the flanks and a black spot on each gill and side. Because of its aggression level, they are unsuitable for community aquaria with small or very docile fish. The water quality for keeping the Jewel cichild is similar to South American requirements, slightly soft with low pH, despite its West African origins. Jewels may be fed a balanced diet of flake, pellets, spirulina, and meaty frozen foods on occasion. They require plenty of cover in their decor, plants and driftwood work well. They keep a large territory, so be sure they have ample room in your tank, or territoriality issues may arise.

Zephyranthes candida "Dwarf Onion Plant"

Tue, 13 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

The Dwarf Onion Plant ( Zephyranthes candida ) is a bulb plant is similar in appearance to a garden variety scallion. The plant is very hardy, and tolerates a wide variety of water conditions. When planting, leave the bulb at least one third to one half of the bulb uncovered.

Sinularia flexibis "Green Spaghetti Leather Coral"

Tue, 13 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

The Spaghetti Leather Coral ( Sinularia flexibis ) is usually white or tan in color and can have colored polyps. It has long spaghetti-like extensions that grow from a central trunk. Large colonies have been compared to Weeping Willow Trees. Bright yellow or green colonies can occasionally be found and require highly lighting than the more common tan or white variations. Spaghetti Leather corals are usually good for beginners in that they are hardy and easy to keep. They grow best under medium to high light conditions with adequate water movement. Spaghetti Leather corals rely mainly on photosynthesis as a food source, but can benefit from additional zooplankton supplements. These corals can grow fairly large and should not be kept in a crowded aquarium. They can be propagated easily for regular maintaining "trimming" as well as to make new colonies. Sinularia corals are some of the more aggressive soft corals. They can grow quickly and may overcome some less aggressive colonies, and they can release chemicals into the water as a means of "chemical warfare" among corals in their competition for space. Sinularia corals are also especially productive with the mucus coating they secrete. They should only be kept in systems with moderate to high water flow, efficient skimming, and high water turnover to help the coral shed its mucus coatings and to remove it from the tank before it can irritate any other corals. This is a Restricted item and is not covered by our Arrive Alive 5-Day Guarantee. Please visit the Guarantee Policy and Restricted Species webpages for more information.

Sarcophyton elegans "Yellow Toadstool Leather Coral" - Medium

Tue, 13 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Sarcophyton elegans is often referred to as the Yellow Leather Coral, Yellow Toadstool Leather, Ruffled Leather Coral and variations thereof. It is very distinctive and has a yellow color ranging from pale beige to vivid banana-yellow. These corals have a short "trunk" supporting a mushroom-shaped cap with ruffled edges. Polyps extend periodically from this cap. Sarcophyton elegans is one of the most notoriously difficult leather corals, especialyl when compared to its near-bulletproof kin. They are sensitive to acclimation and transportation and tend to become stressed fairly easily. They also do not handle disease, damage or propagation as well as other leathers. These corals may benefit from occasional feedings in the aquarium but survive mostly on photosynthesis from the zooxanthallae algae living in their tissues. They should be kept in a tank with moderate to high lighting. Water movement should also be moderately strong to assist in waste removal and in the coral's periodic shedding of a mucus layer. These corals have low to moderate aggression and can easily fall victim to other aggressive corals. They also benefit from trace element supplements, particularly iodine which can assist in growth and in shedding. This is a Restricted item and is not covered by our Arrive Alive 5-Day Guarantee. Please visit the Guarantee Policy and Restricted Species webpages for more information.

Rhodactis sp. "Bullseye Mushroom Rock"

Tue, 13 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Mushrooms are small, round anemones that show many different colors and patterns. Individuals form compact colonies over reef rock which resemble some hard corals. The surface of the polyp can be tightly beaded like a carpet anemone or smooth in appearance. The color of surface can be striped, solid in color, edged with a different color, or have any other number of patterns and variations. The mushrooms range in color from brown to green to blue and in rare cases orange or red. The mushroom rocks sold here have centers that are of a different color than the rim. These mushrooms are carnivorous and photosynthetic. While they will take food from the water column and even feed on larger items like brine shrimp, they benefit from higher lighting and will show brighter colors under more intense light. They should be given ample space in aquariums as they may damage other corals with prolonged contact. It is common for an individual mushroom to come off of a rock and settle somewhere else in the aquarium or for a mushroom to split into multiple mushroom to spread or start a new colony. Though mushrooms come in a variety of colors and patterns, they grow in colonies on rocks and therefore there will normally be only one type of mushroom on each rock. The type, size of individual mushrooms and number of mushrooms on the rock may vary. If certain types or colors are desired, please contact the Livestock Department at 1-877-367-4377 for availability.

Reverse Moon Coral Frag - Favia sp.

Tue, 13 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Reverse Moon Coral Frag - Favia sp. Moon Corals get their name because of its spherical-cratered skeleton. On Favites sp. , individual polyps share walls with neighboring polyps. Also known as Moon corals, Favia sp. corals have a similiar structure except that walls between individual polyps are not shared. Most Moon Corals are green, some brightly flourescent, and can either form spherical "moons" or be encrusting. Lighting is important and should be between 3-5 watts per gallon. The coral should generally be placed mid- to the upper level in the aquarium. They will compete with other corals for space so be sure to leave a few inches between each coral to allow them room to grow. Be sure to keep the calcium level up so the skeletal structure of the coral will remain strong and healthy.

Red Ball Sponge

Tue, 13 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Sponges are simple organisms with complex identities. They are comprised of calcium carbonate or silica spicules that can vary between species or between individuals. Most sponges are very difficult to identify by scientific name since the size, shape and color of sponges is highly variable. Most sponges in the aquarium trade are only identified by common name as a result since the spicules usually need to be examined under a microscope by a specialist to determine their accurate identify. Sponges are filter feeders. They feed by drawing water through their pores and retaining any microscopic food particles and passing the water through their bodies. Sponges are almost constantly feeding and filtering water and as such need a near constant supply of food to survive in an aquarium. Lighting is unimportant for most sponges but high light that can cause algae to grow on the colony can prevent the sponge from feeding. Sponges should never be exposed to air while handling, transporting or acclimating. Even brief contact can cause air to get trapped in the sponge's pores which can lead to starvation or decomposing of the colony. The sponge should be place in a high flow area of the aquarium but not where air bubbles may be forced into it. Visit That Fish Blog for more information from our marine biologists on sponges for home aquariums. This is a Restricted item and is not covered by our Arrive Alive 5-Day Guarantee. Please visit the Guarantee Policy and Restricted Species webpages for more information.

Plerogyra sp. "Green Pearl Bubble Coral"

Tue, 13 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Ostracion meleagris "Black Boxfish" - Small Female

Tue, 13 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Ostracion meleagris "Black Boxfish" - Small Female Ostracion meleagris is known by several common names including Blue Boxfish , Black Boxfish or simply Spotted Boxfish due to its drastically different coloration between males and females. There are at least two known subspecies of this fish. Although they can get up to about 10 inches, they normally do not grow over about 6 inches. A pair can be kept together as long as the aquarium is large enough to accommodate both. Though coloration is variable, males will usually have blue sides with black or orange spots and the top of their body is black with white spots. Females (and juveniles) have a brown or black body with numerous tiny white spots from head to tail. Boxfish, Cowfish and Trunkfish are all very closely related to each other. All have bodies that are box or pyramid-shaped. Although they may resemble some puffers, these fish do not "inflate" when stressed like puffers do. Coloration, habitat and body shape may vary but all of these fish generally have pointed snouts that they used to pick prey items out of rockwork and crevices. They feed on invertebrates like some corals and polyps, crabs, shrimp, molluscs, worms and similar prey. They can be fed a varied meaty diet of fresh or frozen prey in the aquarium as long as the food is appropriately sized for their relatively small mouths. These fish are not Reef Safe. Many will eat corals, especially smaller-polyped corals and polyps. They can usually be kept with most peaceful tankmates but should not be kept with aggressive tankmates or very active swimmers that can stress these passive weak-swimming fish. If stressed, these fish can release a toxin into the water that can be harmful to itself and other tankmates. Always remove a struggling boxfish or cowfish into a separate quarantine tank if stressed and monitor their interactions with their tankmates closely. Avoid putting them in a tank with large, aggressive, or very active tankmates. Visit That Fish Blog for more information from our marine biologists and guest authors on Boxfish, Trunkfish and Cowfish as well as a Species Profile on Longhorn Cowfish . This is a Restricted item and is not covered by our Arrive Alive 5-Day Guarantee. Please visit the Guarantee Policy and Restricted Species webpages for more information.

Nephthyigorgia sp. "Chili Coral" - Medium

Tue, 13 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Chili Coral ( Nephthyigorgia sp. ) tends to form small colonies on shady reef slopes. The tissue is usually some shade of red, orange or purple with white polyps that extend to feed. Colonies typically stay under about six inches in height and do best when in a shaded area or even hung upside-down in a cave or under a ledge. Chili Coral is non-photosynthetic and does not require lighting to thrive. and must be fed fine particulate invert food in the home aquarium. They prefer moderate to high flow. Chili Coral is also known as Red Finger Coral, Devil's Hand, Chili Sponge, Strawberry Coral and several other common names. The scientific identity of this coral is also debated. Many sources list Chili Coral as Alcyonium sp. , and others list Alcyonium sp. as a "Colt Coral". Alcyonium sp. corals are generally white, tan or bluish corals from temperate regions while Nephthyigorgia sp. corals like this Chili Coral are spiny in texture, from tropical Indo-Pacific reefs, and is generally darker red, orange or purple.

Neon Cleaner Goby - Elacatinus oceanops - XSmall

Tue, 13 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Neon Cleaner Goby - Elacatinus oceanops - XSmall The Neon Cleaner Goby ( Elacatinus oceanops , also sometimes referred to as Gobiosoma oceanops ) has a black body with two blue lines that run from the snout to the tail. It is one of the most popular and well-known fish known as "Cleaner Gobies". "Cleaner gobies" come mostly from the Gobiosoma genus but are also found in Elacatinus and a few others as fish are reclassified and new genuses are formed or assigned. Most fish from these groups clean parasites and dead scales off of larger fish, leading to their common name, but all can live without a "host" and will feed on a variety of foods in the aquarium. They are best kept in smaller reef tanks where they can be easily fed and enjoyed. Their diet should consist of meaty items like Cyclops, baby brine shrimp, mysis shrimp and similar items. While predators generally leave known "cleaner" fish alone in exchange for their services, always add larger fish well after these tiny gobies are established in the aquarium and monitor carefully. Predators may still eat smaller fish and inverts, "cleaner" or not. Not all of these gobies are "cleaner" fish and may not help keep parasites from other fish in the aquarium. Gobies from the same species may show aggression towards each other but are generally peaceful towards other fish of a similar size and temperament.

Metallic Green Horn Coral Frag - Hydnophora sp.

Tue, 13 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Metallic Green Horn Coral Frag - Hydnophora sp. Horn Coral ( Hydnophora sp. ) is similar to Acropora but lacks the individual polyp formations. It is instead covered in fleshy tissue which is typically brown or intense flourescent green. The branches can resemble thick tree branches or the coral can be found in a more encrusting/plating formation. Hydnophora rely heavily on their zooxanthallae algae for food and need high light to preserve color and provide energy. They should not be placed close to other corals as they may sting nearby competitors.

Lobophytum sp. "Devil's Hand Coral" - Medium

Tue, 13 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Devil's Hand Coral ( Lobophytum sp. ) is a soft coral with a fleshy base and short, stubby tentacles. It is sometimes called the Lobed Leather Coral and is sometimes confused with the Toadstool Leathers ( Sarcophyton sp. ). Most colonies are a shade of tan or purple, but brightly colored colonies are occasionally available. Lobophytum corals need moderate to high lighting to support the zooxanthallae algae that lives in its tissue and from which it gets much of its food. This coral also filter-feeds and can benefit from plankton supplements and small foods. It should be places in an area with moderate to high flow to help carry away wastes and to help the coral with its occasional shedding. Like most other leather corals, Lobophytum corals can release a toxin that irritates its neighbors and is considered moderately aggressive. Give this coral plenty of space to spread out without bothering the corals around it. This coral is an excellent choice for an aquarist interesting in home coral propagation and "fragging". It can easily be separated into smaller colonies and moved around the tank or traded with other aquarists.

Lobophyllia sp. "Assorted Tooth Coral" - Small/Medium

Tue, 13 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Lobophyllia sp. "Assorted Tooth Coral" - Small

Tue, 13 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Liopropoma mowbrayi "Cave Bass"

Tue, 13 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Not seen very often in the trade, the Cave Bass ( Liopropoma mowbrayi ) is solid red with blue fin trim and a yellow stripe on its snout. They are very shy and reclusive, so provide lots of rock for hiding places. Most Liopropoma basses are found on deep reefs, although some can be found in shallower waters as well. As is common with lower light or deeper water fish, most are some variation of red, yellow, and/or orange. Though the maximum sizes vary with species, the behavior remains consistent, relative to their size. These basses are territorial and will remain close to their "home" rock, cave or ledge, venturing out for food and defense. They are safe with most fish and invertebrates that are too large to be eaten (small ornaments crustaceans are generally not safe), and they do not bother hard or soft corals. Liopropoma basses need a varied meaty diet. Some may accept prepared foods like flakes, pellets and frozen formulas, but they should be given frozen and fresh foods as well like brine shrimp, scallop, clam, mysis and similar items. In an established aquarium with plenty of live rock and a healthy microinvertebrate population, they will often graze on copepods, amphipods and similar inverts. They may not eat if intimidated or stressed by larger tankmates or by another Liopropoma in the tank.

Indian Redfin Butterfly - Chaetodon trifasciatus - Medium

Tue, 13 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Indian Redfin Butterfly - Chaetodon trifasciatus - Medium The Indian Redfin Butterfly ( Chaetodon fasciatus ) is also sometimes referred to as the Melon Butterfly. This beautiful butterfly is pale in color, with pale lavender and orange hues shadowing parts of the oval-shaped body. There are purple diagonal stripes from the gill to the tail. The anal fin and tail are yellow-orange, each with a single brown stripe. A brown-red stripe runs through the eye. This is primarily a coral-eating species in the wild, and may require special care. Butterflyfish consist of a large number of fish found in the aquarium trade from the Chaetodon , Chelmon , Forcipiger , and Heniochus genuses, among others from the family Chaetodontidae . The family ranges in length from 3 inches up to close to 12 inches in length. Butterflies are usually roughly oval in body shape but longer fins make some appear elliptical or diamond-shaped. They resemble and are sometimes confused with angelfish (family Pomacentridae ) but angelfish have a cheekspine that is not found in butterflies. Butterflies are generally community fish in nature. Though some more pugnatious species may terrorize smaller or more docile fish, most can be kept with a wide range of community tankmates. Most butterfly species are not "reef safe" and will eat corals and polyps. In fact, some more delicate butterflies require corals as part of their natural diet. Butterflies may also harm smaller crustaceans (crabs and shrimp) and may pick at inverts like clams, feather dusters, anemones and similar tankmates. Use caution when introducing a butterfly into a tank with inverts; though some are considered "reef safe" by some aquarists, any butterfly may pose a risk to corals and inverts. The diet of butterflies can vary, as mentioned, based on what they normally eat in the wild. Some very picky species only pick at coral flesh and can be difficult to wean onto an aquarium-based diet. A very varied diet of algaes and meaty items like brine shrimp, mysis shrimp, scallops, clam, corals, sponges and other items is best. Vitamin supplements can also help get the butterflies all the nutrition they require. While some butterflies are very hardy and suitable for aquarists of all levels, more sensitive species should be attempted by experienced aquarists only. This is a Restricted item and is not covered by our Arrive Alive 5-Day Guarantee. Please visit the Guarantee Policy and Restricted Species webpages for more information.

Green Pearl Bubble Coral - Plerogyra sp. - Large

Tue, 13 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Green Pearl Bubble Coral - Plerogyra sp. - Large Bubble Corals ( Plerogyra sp. ) get their name from the daytime expansion of their tissue. Also called Cat's Eye or Grape Coral, these corals can have a variety of blue and pearl colorations as well as more rare green varieties. These corals are considered aggressive because they use sweeper tentacles that can expand several inches at night for feeding. They will also use these sweeper tentacles to sting adjacent corals if they are a threat to their territory. For this reason they will need sufficient room to be able to expand. These corals require medium to high light, and require low water movement for full expansion. In most tanks they should be placed midway and higher in the tank to thrive. As Bubble Corals can expand and can easily be damaged by their sharp skeletons, Bubble Corals should be firmly secured into place to prevent them from falling over.

Green and White Symphyllia Coral - Symphyllia sp.

Tue, 13 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Green and White Symphyllia Coral - Symphyllia sp. Symphyllia Corals, also known as "Dented Brain Corals", are very closely related to the more common Lobophyllia corals and require much of the same care. Their color can vary but Symphyllia corals are most often found with different colors around the edges and in the center of the corals' ridges. These corals feed mainly at night and should be target fed often to prevent starvation. They feed on planktonic foods but can and should also feed on larger items like mysis shrimp. Symphyllia corals will adjust to a wide range of lighting conditions but will thrive more in higher light environments. They are also relatively hardy and adjust well to a variety of water conditions. Symphyllia corals can expand in size, especially at night. They should be firmly secured in place to prevent them from toppling over. They should also be placed well away from very aggressive corals that can sting or damage the Symphyllia .

Euphyllia divisa "Wall Frogspawn Coral" - Small

Tue, 13 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Euphyllia divisa "Wall Frogspawn Coral" - Small Frogspawn corals get their name from the multi-tipped tentacles that they have. The tentacles give the appearance of a mass of frog eggs before hatching. Frogspawn are aggressive because their tentacles can extend several inches and have a powerful sting. Make sure that they are given enough room to move in the current without contacting other specimens in the aquarium. Place in medium to high light, with moderate water movement. Invertebrate food should be fed to these corals once or twice a week depending on the bio load in the aquarium.

Cynarina lacrymalis "Green Doughnut Coral"

Tue, 13 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Known commonly as Doughnut, Knob, Meat or Cat's-eye corals, Cynarina corals are unique specimens for the aquarium. They are a single polyp coral, with transparent or translucent bubble-like vesicles. The large, toothy skeletal "septa" can be seen clearly beneath the delicate tissue, and care should be taken when placing the coral to avoid damage to the flesh. The tissue may be entirely clear, allowing the underlying colors next to the skeleton to show through, or in some specimens the tissue is tinted green, red, orange, or patterned. These corals should be placed low in the aquarium in low water movement and given plenty of room for expansion. They are closely related and are often mistaken for Scolymia corals, but unlike Scolymia, Cynarina has larger ridges in the skeleton. Another related coral, Acanthophyllia deshayesiana , was formerly known as a Cynarina but was recently reclassified.

Cycloseris/Fungia sp. "Orange Plate Coral" - Small

Tue, 13 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Cycloseris plate corals are very closely related to Fungia sp. plate corals with some small skeletal differences. Its skeleton forms a cupped disc with ridges that radiate from a central oral opening. Cycloseris plate corals tend to have a more mound-like shape than the more common Fungia corals. These corals come in a variety of colors, usually green, pink, or purple. Short tentacles extend upward on the upper side of the animal. These corals have a medium aggressiveness rating because they are quite mobile on an open surface, and can sting other corals that it may come into contact. Place this specimen on a gravel or rubble bottom in direct light, with a medium to low water movement.

Cladiella sp. "Colt Coral" - Large

Tue, 13 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Balistoides conspicillum "Clown Trigger" - Medium

Tue, 13 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

The Clown Trigger ( Balistoides conspicillum ) has a black body with large white spots and yellow lips, yellow caudal peduncle, and a yellow dorsal blotch. The yellow dorsal area has black and white markings throughout. Clown Triggers can reach 20 inches in the wild, but average about 10 to 12 inches in home aquariums. This is one of the most aggressive species, especially as an adult, so choose tankmates carefully! Triggerfish are easily recognized by their distinct body shape and a thick dorsal spike that can be raised and lowered at will. When these fish feels threatened, is ready for sleep at night, or wants to secure itself against strong wave action, it can use the spine to wedge itself into a hole or crevice. Once a trigger has secured itself, it is next to impossible to remove it from its hiding place. These fish may lay on the bottom of the tank or hide in a corner if they can't find an adequate place to feel secure, so they appreciate rock or other ornaments where that can retreat. Use caution when netting these fish as the spines and rough scales can become tangled in the mesh. Triggerfish are voracious carnivores and will need to be fed a varied diet of meaty foods including freeze-dried or frozen clam, krill, shrimp, and other similar items. They generally cannot be housed with inverts such as crabs, clams, urchins or crabs as these will be seen as a quick snack. Tank mates should be chosen carefully, and they should be large enough and tough enough to hold their own against a feisty trigger. Be aware that these are very active fish, spending most of their time in the open searching for food or other fish to chase. Some can be downright mean, killing tank mates or biting electrical cords, fingers, or anything else that breaks the water's surface. Be aware of the temperament of any trigger species you may want to house in a tank before they are introduced. Even small triggers can cause big issues as they mature or become established. Triggers from the genera Pseudobalistes , Rhinecanthus , Balistes and Balistoides are generally the most aggressive species and should not be kept with corals, inverts or small fish. Odonus , Melichthys , and Xanthichthys genera are generally less aggressive or destructive and some may even be kept successfully in community or reef aquariums but be aware that they still may prey on inverts (especially crustaceans) or on smaller tankmates.

Assorted Polyp Frag - Small

Tue, 13 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Polyps are found in oceans around the world, but are commonly harvested from the Indo-Pacific. They are low maintenance and make ideal beginner corals for new aquarists. The polyps on these frags are assorted in color, variety and individual size. The frag you receive may look different than the example pictured above. These polyps are found in various forms and colors. Typically, their polyps are white, brown, or metallic green in coloration. Some polyps will even have prominent "eyes"of white or green. These are attractive in the aquarium due to their color and their encrusting nature. Each individual polyp has a diameter of less than one quarter of an inch, but colonies can grow to cover any surface. Under the right conditions, these polyps may grow quickly and may be invasive to other corals. However, providing amble room between corals in the aquarium should prevent them from becoming too invasive. Invertebrate food such as MicroVert, Marine Snow, or Cyclop-eeze are recommended on an occasional basis.

Aquacultured Green Galaxea Frag - Galaxea sp. - Small

Tue, 13 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Aquacultured Green Galaxea Frag - Galaxea sp. - Small Galaxy Corals ( Galaxea sp. ) are very popular with many aquarists because of their hardiness and beauty. Most will consist of large colonies of separate corallites with small tentacles extending from each one. Be careful when placing this coral near other corals as it has "sweeper tentacles" that can stretch up to 5 inches from the colony and will sting other corals that may compete for space. A moderate flow of water over the coral allows for sufficient feeding. Invertebrate foods such as Marine Snow or Microvert along with other types should be fed once or twice a week and care must be taken to make sure water quality is always good. If the tank contains extremely strong lighting, this coral may be placed on the substrate of the tank but generally mid to upper levels of the tank are a more appropriate choice.

Huggle Hounds Mini Skunk Dog Toy - 9 in.

Mon, 12 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Knotties gives your dog the fun of 6 squeakers, crinkle ears and knot arms attached to a super soft corduroy body. Tuffut construction stands up to your dog with up to 100 lbs of tugging.

Huggle Hounds Knotties Mini Moose Dog Toy 9 in.

Mon, 12 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

Knotties gives your dog the fun of 6 squeakers, crinkle ears and knot arms attached to a super soft corduroy body. Tuffut construction stands up to your dog with up to 100 lbs of tugging.

Complete Herp Care - Aquatic Turtles

Mon, 12 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

This fun, soft covered book contains a wealth of general and specific information on keeping numerous species of aquatic turtles, including red eared sliders, painted turtles and many others.

Chemi-Mat - 2 pk - 6 in. x 12 in.

Mon, 12 Dec 2011 00:00:00 GMT

This is a phosphate filter pad for fresh and saltwater. It does not need water to be forced through it. All water needs to do is run over it. This simple and easy to use pad will remove all the diluted phosphates from your tank within 48 hours. When process has been completed simply remove the pad and discard. Can not be regenerated. It is non-toxic and contains no chemicals that would make it environmentally unsafe. It is safe for reef and plants.