Saltwater Aquarium Basics
Saltwater Aquarium Basics
Keeping a saltwater aquarium is not as difficult as many people believe, but it is a little more involved than a freshwater setup. The following is a very basic overview of how to set up and maintain the beginner saltwater aquarium.
Research
The first step before purchasing an aquarium for saltwater is to do research. Take the time to think about what kinds of fish you would like to keep because this will affect everything from tank size to feeding. Be sure the fish you want to keep will make good tank mates and be aware of their adult size. Researching each fish or coral before purchase will keep you informed on what is a good fit for your tank. Adding the wrong fish or too many fish at once could cost you all your progress and livestock.
Aquarium Size
For saltwater, as with any aquarium, bigger is always better. A large marine ecosystem can better handle the daily fluctuations in water quality than a small ecosystem. We have found that 55 gallons is a perfect beginner aquarium size. A 55-gallon tank will allow for several types of fish and is large enough to maintain a stable environment. Keep in mind that while it is possible to keep a very small saltwater tank, we recommend that only those aquarists with prior saltwater experience attempt it.
Cycling Your Tank & Adding Fish
Before adding your favorite fish, your tank must “cycle,” or become biologically stable. Cycling is the process where nitrifying bacteria colonize on rock and in your filter. This bacteria’s job is to detoxify the wastes created by your fish. Most new saltwater tanks are started using live rock, which is rock cured in saltwater and colonized with bacteria and other organisms. You will notice when testing your water that within the first few weeks after adding live rock, ammonia and nitrite levels will rise in the tank and slowly decrease. Also during this time, you may see the water in the aquarium start to cloud or look grey. Do not worry, this is natural, and the cloudiness will pass quickly on its own. We also recommend adding a bacteria supplement such as “Stability,” “Nite-Out,” or “FritzZyme” to help lower ammonia levels and aid in the cycle.
The cycling process can be very stressful for most fish. Losses are common during this time, which is why we recommend fishless cycling methods. If you are not using live rock, bacterial supplements should be added. We recommend adding hardy “clean-up crew” invertebrates, such as crabs and snails, as your first livestock.
While your aquarium is cycling, do not change any water, clean out your filter media, or add more fish. Your tank will be completely cycled when ammonia and nitrite both test at zero and nitrate tests low. This can take anywhere from 4 to 8 weeks. The key here is to be patient.
New Fish and Maintenance
When your aquarium is cycled, add new fish gradually. Adding too many fish at once can disrupt your cycle and increase the possibility of problems with the tank. Be sure to follow recommended acclimating procedures to ensure a happy addition.
We recommend quarantining all new additions to your tank. This is a procedure where you keep your new livestock in a tank separate from your main display tank for a few weeks to monitor for any illnesses or parasites. If any issues do arise, a quarantine tank allows you to treat the illness without affecting your display tank. If you choose not to quarantine new livestock, you will be limited to hardy or captive-bred species. Otherwise, you are in danger of infecting all of the livestock in your tank.
Once cycled, basic aquarium maintenance includes feeding, cleaning, and water changes. When you purchase your new fish, find out what food is best and how often they should be fed. Saltwater foods are available in dried and frozen varieties and each type of fish has different needs. Cleaning includes scraping aquarium walls to keep them free of algae and siphoning the gravel or sand regularly. A “clean-up crew” of small animals like hermit crabs and snails will help keep algae to a minimum as well and is strongly recommended. Water changes are crucial to keeping your tank healthy. Never change more than 30% of the aquarium water at one time. Changing too much can do far more harm than good. Water change frequency varies by tank size and stocking level, but should be done when nitrate levels go over 20 ppm. This keeps nitrate levels in the aquarium at a safe level and ensures healthy fish and invertebrates. Always pre-mix your saltwater in a container before adding it back into the aquarium and make sure the temperature and specific gravity are equal to that already in the aquarium.
With this basic information, you are well on your way to being a marine hobbyist! If at any time you have any questions or need help selecting fish or supplies for your aquarium, feel free to contact the fish room or the sales floor associates. We at That Fish Place-That Pet Place want to keep you and your fish happy for years to come!
Setting Up Your Aquarium
The basic equipment for saltwater is the same as for freshwater with a few extras:
You will need good filtration, be it a hang-on power filter, a canister filter, or a wet-dry system. You may also want a protein skimmer to remove organic waste. Check with one of our knowledgeable staff members, as these types vary with the size of aquarium desired.
The substrate should be crushed coral or any live sand or gravel. This helps maintain a proper pH of 8 - 8.4 and provides a good base for rock.
Salt mixes are available in several brand names. There are different salts for fish only and reef tanks. You can mix your saltwater directly in the aquarium when first setting up. Salt should be mixed into Reverse Osmosis (RO) or distilled water. RO water is available for purchase, or you can purchase a RO filtration unit to filter your own. Follow the mixing directions on the package and check the salinity with a hydrometer or refractometer. Salinity (or specific gravity) should be between 1.020 and 1.026 for fish-only systems, and between 1.025 and 1.026 for reef tanks.
A heater is required to keep temperatures between 75 and 82 degrees.
Be sure you have test kits on hand to monitor your water chemistry. Test the water in your new aquarium at least twice a week for pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate. Using a liquid test kit will get you the most accurate results.
Lighting is another requirement, but how much you will need varies. An aquarium with only fish requires no special lighting, but if you are interested in keeping living corals it is necessary to provide a quality, bright reef light for the corals to thrive.
Recommended Products:
- Salt
- Heater
- Hydrometer or Refractometer
- Live Rock (1/2 to 1 lb. per gallon)
- 5 Gallon Buckets
- Net